240hoke Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 Looking absolutly awesome as always! I love to see your progress as you continue building this beast. I really liek the cage design and Have always wanted ot do something mre custom. i was curious what you were useing to bend hte pipe. I see the bender in the floor, are you really useing that? I tried a similar type with absolutely no luck, perhaps I had the wrong dies. -Austin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 I'd also venture to guess that Steve's bars wouldn't pass SCCA w2w tech either. IMHO, this is all a bit overkill for a soloII car. I think that's his time trialing car that's eventually getting a V8. The design has what I'm looking for: a bar right above the rocker (attached to strengthen it), and an easy to bend door bar that protrudes into the door. I seem to recall that it is a copy of a Porsche design. I won't be racing with SCCA either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katman Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 "Door bar design seem to be good enough for Subaru Rally cars:" Since when are they any smarter than anybody else? I'da told them the same thing. Nice work though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 I can't speak from direct experience (thank god) but if I were in a car that slid sideways into a tree at 90 mph I think I'd want the bars welded together. Less chance of spreading them apart. Might think a little differently about getting T boned by a car, but that's not usually the concern in rally racing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlalomz Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 Rick at Rebello Racing did the main cage in my car and I did the overkill of 20 added tubes. It was loosely patterned after Drsideways car. John Coffey in another post said SCCA rules in IT will need Nascar bars soon. Get the rulebook with who you're going to run with still applies. I have modified the driver side bars for easier access for my old fat butt. It was overkill for a solo2 car but it was planned for dual purpose autocross/track days. After talking to Dennis Hale at a swapmeet I decided to do dedicated cars which has really dragged out my progress. (my fault not Dennis'). That's why I'm building the green car with thinwall tube only in places I think it needs to keep the weight way down. Check out the link in my signature, Prieth. Jon, check out how they are doing that style in Japan with lower x-bars in the doors, rocker panel tube and the rear xbar to the strut towers. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10177&d=1133539656 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 check out how they are doing that style in Japan with lower x-bars in the doors, rocker panel tube and the rear xbar to the strut towers. [url']http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10177&d=1133539656[/url] Looks very similar to what I did on my tube car. I have a book from Japan that is a history of racing Zs. I'm pretty sure I have some of these pictures. I can't read any of it but it's fun to look at what they've done. Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 Great link Steve! That is almost exactly what I had in mind with the flanged hole plate between the rocker and the lower bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preith Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 Rick at Rebello Racing did the main cage in my car and I did the overkill of 20 added tubes. It was loosely patterned after Drsideways car. John Coffey in another post said SCCA rules in IT will need Nascar bars soon. Get the rulebook with who you're going to run with still applies. I have modified the driver side bars for easier access for my old fat butt. It was overkill for a solo2 car but it was planned for dual purpose autocross/track days. As with most members on this board, I figured your car was a dual purpose of some sort as well, I didn't mean to ruffle any feathers, it was strictly speaking in a soloII reference. One point I think we need to touch on is the Nascar style bars are only required for the driver's side of the car. I have an x-bar similar to your link on the passenger side as well, but without the lower portion, which is nice BTW. Jon, I probably sound like a broken record with the SCCA reference, but I'm using it as a benchmark. My club, and NASA for example, follow their rules closely, but this is W2W for too, which most of member here don't do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlalomz Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 There were no feathers ruffled. I came to the same conclusion by the time the 20th tube was added. (I'm kinda slow) The Japanese magazine disscussed on the linked site was given to me by a fellow enthusiast. Lots of great cars and ideas but like Playboy, I keep looking at the pics and have no idea what was in the articles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 Jon, check out how they are doing that style in Japan with lower x-bars in the doors, rocker panel tube and the rear xbar to the strut towers. [url']http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10177&d=1133539656[/url] Why would they have not tied the cage into the rear strut towers? Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 But do they even have the SCCA in Sweden? I mean it is the Sports car club of America. just a thought... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlalomz Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 I'm not sure what you mean. All the bars are connecting to the front part of the tower the best I can tell from the picture. There is a bar continuing from the door x top bar too. Is that the best place to connect all the bars, I dunno? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 I'm not sure what you mean. All the bars are connecting to the front part of the tower the best I can tell from the picture. There is a bar continuing from the door x top bar too. Is that the best place to connect all the bars' date=' I dunno? [img']http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/zlalomz/xbar.jpg[/img] What I mean is they connected to the wheelwell but the load comes into the strut tower. So there is no direct connection from the loads which come from the strut to the cage - the load has to go from the strut into the strut tower then into the wheelwell and finally to the cage. From a loadpath perspective seems like a less than efficient design - to me you would want to tie into the tower and not the wheelwell. Maybe the cross bar is welded to the front of the tower but it's hard to tell? PS: sorry, didn't mean to hi-jack Mull's thread Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 I was focused on that rocker bar, but I think Cameron is right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katman Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 I'm not sure what you mean. All the bars are connecting to the front part of the tower the best I can tell from the picture. There is a bar continuing from the door x top bar too. Is that the best place to connect all the bars' date=' I dunno? [img']http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/zlalomz/xbar.jpg[/img] No diagonal in the plane of the main hoop? Nice big kink halfway up the main hoop with no horizontal from kink to kink? I wouldn't race with that cage! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boodlefoof Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 That guy in the link should probably be wearing more eye protection than just sun glasses while he is welding... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 No diagonal in the plane of the main hoop? Nice big kink halfway up the main hoop with no horizontal from kink to kink? I wouldn't race with that cage! I think that the kink you're looking at is not a kink, its the door bar. I was looking at it the same way wondering why they bent the main hoop like that, then I realized that that was actually the door bar and the main hoop looks like a fairly normal SCCA hoop as far as I can tell. The diagonal goes to the rear strut tower instead of across the hoop. Might not be SCCA legal, but I've seen it before. Ron Carter's BRE replica is done that way IIRC. Here's the pic again with some highlighting: Hoop = yellow Door bars = blue Diagonal = red Ron's cage: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted August 27, 2006 Share Posted August 27, 2006 OK.. I have a bigggg question for you guys.... Most of the A-pillar bars I have been able to track down in pictures have the same problem in common... Headroom.... I will literally have 1" of clearance to the side of my helmet... dammit... If I lean my head in a corner it will instantly come into contact with the roof part of the doorbar... I think this is a case for having a front and rear hoop with high placed roof bars tieing the front and rear hoops together.... It seems to be the only way to get a lot of clearance... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boodlefoof Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 bjhines, I've been contemplating this problem as well. You could try to recess the A-pillar/window rail bar into the existing body. Cut a channel out of the A-pillar and window rail and move the bar into it as far as possible... might pick you up 3/4''? Only problem is that you probably don't want to mess up the window lip for your weatherstripping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 If you can get away with it and still be comfortable, try lowering your seat a little bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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