Jump to content
HybridZ

how hot do your Z's get?


MaTTSuN

Recommended Posts

If you are running the I-6 and stock radiator and fan set-up then you have a problem. Your needle should run in the dead center of the gauge - all the time except when it's warming up. If it is drifting above that when you're at a stop light then you have one of several possible problems:

1) A fouled radiator

2) a bad water pump

3) A missing fan shroud

4) a bad centrifugal clutch on your fan

5) a bad thermostat.

6) an improper coolant mixture or low coolant

7) a combination of 2 or more of the above.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have the motorsport 4 row, and i was overheating at the track with the l26 that was in the car before the turbo swap, i added some pencool "waterweter" 40 below , that sort of thing and instantly stopped, it really did drop the temp quite a bit... i also wrapped thermal welding blanket, the shiney silver stuff around the bottoms of the hitachi roundtop carbs that were on it and it stopped the crazy vapor locking problems after each run.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well its like this. i dont have a fan shroud because i changed my rad to the zx rad because the fan i had on it was 2 close and put a hole in it. so i put my Z fan on and it sits a little far back AND i only run water because im just trying to figure out my set up and dont want to puke a bunch of anti freeze all over the place, i have a new water pump and thermastat. ill try and find the shroud for it that should help allot .... and i dont evn have my water cooled turbo hooked up becasue i havent made the return line yet in the rad (the stock one had the return line)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i only run water

 

Straight water will cause all kinds of rust and corrosion problems that will plug up a radiator enough to reduce it's ability to cool. Doesn't take that long. Was it clean or new when you got it? How long have you been running only water.

 

Mine will get to 200* if I'm stopped and the a/c is running and it's 110* out. If it's in the 80's it will be around 160ish.

 

Also if it's an old radiator you might want to get it rodded out. Here it's around $45. If you are running hot at speed it's not fan/shroud related but radiator. I don't even run a fan on my 71'.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah ima skank the shroud off my stock Z rad and ill put antifreeze in when i get the water cooled hoses back on the turbo

i just had a 2 day permit on it and trying to sort out some things befor it on the road full time

got some oil fittings to redue and the dam injection to set up and that fine exaust smell that pulls in wow i get high haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Man, you guys are lucky. In stop & go I can see up to 225-235* :-( . That's with a griffin radiator, electric waterpump, and electric fans. However, the large i/c and water-cooled turbo probably don't help that much...

 

And sir, please, add some coolant to that thing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

According the megasquirt, the highest temp my car sees is 210 after I've been flogging the turbo. Just cruising and at a stop, it's 185-190 degrees which correlates to about straight up on the in dash gauge. I don't have a fan shroud and the thermostat is probably stock.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Running across Iowa at 100-110mph in 103 degree June Heat, was at 170 with a 160 thermostat....with the A/C on and the interior of the car at 70 degrees. 1974 260Z, MSA 3-Core, Stock Fan and Clutch, no Shorud, no Splash Pan. 3.70 gearset, late ZX 5-Speed tranny.

 

Running 85mph towing an 800# trailer, with three people in the car, across the Texas Desert between ElPaso and the next outpost of civilization in 110 degree heat, ran 170 with a 160 thermostat, stock radiator, stock shroud, stock fan and clutch, stock splash pan. 3.9 gearset, early 5-Speed.

 

Running 3200 rpms across I10 to Phoenix from Palm Springs, in 120 degree heat, with 3.7 gearset, late ZX Tranny, on my 73 Turbo Conversion got to 180 degrees with a three core, electric fan, no spash pan, G-Nose, no shroud, and FMIC with 165 Chevy thermostat.

 

These temperatures were taken using a Thermocouple and my Multimeter converter plug-in box. Thermocouple installed in upper radiator hose in the water flow.

 

IN EACH CASE, EVEN THOUGH THE TEMPERATURES WERE WITHIN 10 DEGREES F, THE RESPECTIVE READING ON THE IN-CAR OEM STOCK GAUGE VARIED FROM LEFT OF CENTER TO THE MIDDLE OF "M" IN "TEMP"!!!

 

Moral of the story: THE STOCK GAUGE IS USELESS UNLESS YOU CALIBRATE IT TO A GOOD KNOWN GAUGE! (The 260Z, incidentally, has half a tank of gas, when it shows 1/4!!!) Same thing, old cars gauges drift, check em out and make sure they read right or you at least know the amount of drift!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...