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Got my LS1 running for real


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Hi all,

I finally got my Ls1 running. I've been battling with the 98 C5 PCM. It's a long story and I will put all the info on my web page if you are interested you can go to link at the bottom. I am using a 99 and up C5 PCM and it works. Here is a video

http://youtube.com/watch?v=RC9YyKNK66E

 

Time for all the fun stuffs...

Vinh

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Thank you all. I have a fiberglass dash that I bought from VRJoe and I will hack it up to fit the gauge cluster in there. I saved a ton of work and money by using the C5 cluster. No need to convert all the sensors' signals. The only sensor I have to worry about is the fuel level sensor. I am so excite right now. Time to compile a list of things to do next.

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You are definitely where I want to be.

 

One quick question, on your website you wrote the following and I was wondering if the numbers are still correct.

 

I have finally made up my mind how low to set the motor. I then completed the new crossmember and bolt the motor in place. I have 1/2 inch between the rack and the pulley and the pulley sits right over the top of the rack. The new crossmember is exactly 6 inches down from the top of the frame rails. I had the new motor sits dead center with the original motor, that is the crankshaft is at the same spot as the L6 crankshaft(on the horizontal plane). It is 3/4 of an inch offset to the passenger side relative to the center line of the 2 frame rails. However the new crankshaft is lower than the original crank shaft. The measurement of the old crankshaft is 3/4" above the frame rails. The LS1's crankshaft measurement is 1/2" below the frame rails. This means I will have to lower the tail of the transmission 1 1/4" to get the driveline parallel to the original driveline.

 

My LS2 crate has the Corvette accesories mounting. I am hoping I can get the pulley completely down and behind the steering rack. But getting my cross member height and left right spacing set will help immensely with this fore-aft placement.

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PopNwood,

I don't think you can set the motor back any more than where I had it. Yes the measurements for the new crossmember still correct. Don't forget the further back the motor the more the stock GM alternator will interfere with the lower steering joint. What I did was strip all the accesories and set my motor where it suppose to be. Then I search around for alternator to fit where it can and then fab up the mounts. my plan is to make this into a show car and will probably drive it very little so I won't be needing the AC. If you want more measurements from my setup I can get them all down with pictures to help you with your swap. Let me know.

 

PS. if you guys want drive by wire function use the 99 and up C5 PCM. There is something tricky about the 97-98 C5 PCM and they don't work in stand alone mode.

 

Vinh

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I may take you up on the offer, but for now I think I have enough info.

 

Somehow I felt got the impression using the F body alternator mount machined to fit the corvette pulley spacing was going to clear. Maybe I need to take a closer look. Trouble is the guy at the machine shop has had my bracket for almost 3 weeks now and still hasn't gotten around to it.

 

My problem is I am trying to use a TKO trans which is 3 1/2 inches shorter than the T56. I need to get the engine as far back as possible to minimize the surgery on the stock shifter hole.

 

BTW, I downloaded a couple of slick alternator mounting solutions off LS1tech. Will use one as a fall back should I run into steering shaft problems

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113654

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