Administrators RTz Posted October 26, 2006 Administrators Share Posted October 26, 2006 I've had mine installed for about a year now, the only problem I had with the install was the top hole for the poly mount was off. I ended up slotting it a bit to get it just right. Interesting Garrett, That mount was born partly out of the need to re-align the U-joints in a JTR car. Are you using it verbatim or have you modified it to retain stock angles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators RTz Posted October 26, 2006 Administrators Share Posted October 26, 2006 They moved the diff back in 9/71, or on the 72 model year if you prefer. Jon, I was trying to establish the link between the diff. moving and the strap mounts being different. It makes sense. I was just wondering if anyone could actually CONFIRM that with their '71. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted October 26, 2006 Author Share Posted October 26, 2006 As I got into it.. I kinda figured you had some scrap 1" and 3" stock you started with... It turns out to fit very well indeed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 The muffler hanger inside the tunnel must be clearanced as welll... That is another difference with mine. My muffler hanger was bolted on and not welded like in your pic. Wasn't sure what the hell it was when I unbolted it. Good to hear someone else had trouble with the diff hitting the crossmember unless the ES mount was filed down. One last thing, I bought both a GM ES mount for the diff and a Ford one to mount my TKO transmission. The instructions on the Ford mount said the center hole was only for manufacturing and was not to be used to mount the isolator. Didn't see the same warning on the GM unit but was wondering if that was still the case. I almost didn't do this mod because I thought the thing looked more complicated then the clamshell stock mount solution. But once I got everything apart and saw how much room there was anbd how easy it would be to fabricate, I figured it would be a good way to get the front of the diff lower allowing me to change the engine tilt. Also a cut off wheel in a circle saw while clamping an angle iron saw guide to the plate steel is a fool proof way to get straight, accurate cuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators RTz Posted October 27, 2006 Administrators Share Posted October 27, 2006 As I got into it.. I kinda figured you had some scrap 1" and 3" stock you started with... It turns out to fit very well indeed... You're on the right track. Go about 10 times deeper, getting progressively less 'exciting' and you'll be there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted October 27, 2006 Author Share Posted October 27, 2006 The middle hole in the poly mount can be used alone.. or the outside 2 holes can be used.. I actually ended up drilling for the 2 holes.. I figured it would make it easier to tighten without spinning around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted November 27, 2006 Share Posted November 27, 2006 Ron, I want to thank you again for making that mount for me after I pleaded so much LOL. It's taken on a life of it's own! I still think people NEED to consider how this mounting arrangement is better FOR SOME INSTANCES than the other mods to the stock mount: IT ALLOWS YOU TO LOWER THE FRONT OF THE DIFF TO MAKE THE DIFF LESS NOSE-UP IN ATTITUDE SO THAT THE U-JOINT ANGLES ON A JTR INSTALLED V8 WORK OUT BETTER. I know the other methods of modifying the stock mount are easy, quick, elegant (maybe?). But this method solves the weak front diff mount, cracking front diff crossmember, and TOO NOSE-UP DIFF ATTITUDE in one fell swoop. JTR V8ers - make sure you consider this when doing the swap!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zgeezer Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 Yes, there are differences. The holes in the legs are spaced differently. Not a problem, just use use the front hole and redrill the back. But, the tunnel spacing also seems to be narrower in the '70. I had a shop build the mount using the dimensions provided on this forum. I had to shorten the top to narrow the spread of the legs (hmmmm, not quite what I mean, but the mount needed some fitting to use.) It is a very elegant solution to a basic design problem. g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 One of you smart guys needs to fab up a mount for the R230 now, since you've all done such a great job on the R200! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mike Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 Ooh... yeah!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teekass Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 Are those of you that are using the Ron Tyler mount still using the factory lateral mount bar that goes under the differential? All but one of the pictures I've seen show the final mount WITHOUT the lower cross member installed. Secondly, are you using a solid diff mount or a factory type diff insulator for the bottom mount? My impression from my reading is that Ron Tylers mount provides upward movement support using a poly insulated mount (taking advantage of the vibration dampening), so common sense would say to use the factory type mount insulator for the bottom mount also (as opposed to a solid one). Thanks in advance, Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted December 13, 2006 Author Share Posted December 13, 2006 ok... You still need the lower crossmember because it is also part of the rear suspension mount... and it bridges the chassis at the back of the tunnel... the front diff crossmember is absolutely neccessary... there is not room for the bottom mount.. this mount was designed to allow the nose of the diff to be lowered for better alignment with the JTR v-8 kit... there is no clearance for both mounts... The RonTyler style mount is much better at holding the nose of the differential still under hard acceleration... while still providing wiggle room for quiet operation and long fatigue life... This over-the-diff mount is a vast improvement over stock.... and it is MUCH more sophisticated than a solid mount... The solid mounts will crack your differential crossmember if you do not also replace the mustache bar/spring with a solid structure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teekass Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 there is not room for the bottom mount.. this mount was designed to allow the nose of the diff to be lowered for better alignment with the JTR v-8 kit... there is no clearance for both mounts... Hey thanks alot, So the diff is no longer fastened to the crossmember? I'll be using motor plates (because I want full length headers) so my engine wont be as low as the JTR setup. I hope the new lower front diff position wont cause me any problems. Hey, cool Rockingham pic by the way. Thanks again, Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 I'll be using motor plates (because I want full length headers) so my engine wont be as low as the JTR setup. I hope the new lower front diff position wont cause me any problems. Thanks again, Chris It shouldn't. Lowering the nose of the diff changes the tilt. You will then need to tilt the engine to match. Getting the diff more "level" allowed me to sit the motor more level giving me more tranny to ground clearance. If your motor is really high, then you may need some more backwards tilt on the engine to let the top of the tranny clear the tunnel. If that happens, you can put some washers on the mustache bar mounts to lower the rear of the diff thus getting the angle of the engine and diff to match. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deMideon Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 I have the Ron Tyler mount, I also removed the center section of the crossmember so I have additional space for the exhaust to go through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teekass Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 I have the Ron Tyler mount, I also removed the center section of the crossmember so I have additional space for the exhaust to go through. Interesting. Sounds like a good idea. Any problem with the control arm part of the crossmember? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted December 13, 2006 Author Share Posted December 13, 2006 The crossmember is a vital part of chassis support... you shouldn't remove the center section unless you have reinforced the tunnel somehow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deMideon Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 Not at all.. I cut it after the bolts for the control arms and welded a piece over the opening to add strength. It works great! bjhines... I would think the Ron Tyler mount reinforces the tunnel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted December 13, 2006 Author Share Posted December 13, 2006 The Ron Tyler mount contributes virtually NOTHING to stiffening the tunnel... just look at the design... I'm not sure I follow what you did... I will repeat.. DO NOT leave the rear end of the tunnel UNSPANNED... It is NOT a good idea to omit the diff crossmember.. unless you have added another piece to span the tunnel in back.... which would interfere with exhaust in much the same way as leaving the crossmember in place.... the way you ALL should... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 I was considering doing this mount for a Z but I will have the original 2.4 and a r200 rear. My question is do I need to make an adjustment for stock driveline angles? From what I read this mount lowers the angle for v8 conversion.Has anyone used this with the l6 configuration . I am rounding up materials today so any help would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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