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Differential Cooler Oil Pump


Mayolives

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I need to install an oil cooler system on my differential and have found many belt and shaft driven pumps to use but have been unable to locate a 12 volt one. Any suggestions as to which 12 volt pump I should use? Any general suggestions about the install. I have located a small Setrab cooler to use but have not decided where to locate it. I'm considering installing a fan on the cooler to provide more air flow when needed.

 

setrab.jpg

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Tom, Fluidyne makes some nice integrated cooler/fan units you might want to check out. At one time, somebody posted that tilton made a suitable pump, but I don't have any info on it.

 

I've been kicking around an idea for a resevoir/check valve/cooler deal that uses the g force of the car to circulate some oil, but haven't quite got it worked out. If I ever get to making as much HP as you, I'll work on it some more. :D

 

jt

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Thanks for the info Mark. Apparently the best pump to have is made by Flojet and is marketed under the names of Tilton, Mocal and Genesis Technologies. Prices vary from $230 to $180 from the suppliers I found. Racer Parts Wholesale and HRP World offer the lowest price. The post I have read recommend using an-8 size supply lines for better flow and mounting the pump on the return side of the cooler to keep the pump coolest. Can I assume that I need to drill and tap the differential case near the bottom for the line going to the cooler/pump and another one towards the top for the return line?

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John, I contacted Fluidyne about an integrated pump/cooler. Their response .

is listed in quotes below. Also, the available unit measures 15" x 14" x 9" and weighs 17.5 lbs.

 

"The only cooler/shroud/fan package which we are currently producing is our part number DB-30612 or DB-30613. These coolers can be used for engine, transmission, or differential cooling. Here is a link to our website where you can view the coolers. http://www.fluidyne.com/pl_soc.html

We formerly manufactured a smaller unit, part number DB-30900/DB-30901, but these have been discontinued."

 

Steve Ribelin

Account/Technical Representative

FLUIDYNE High Performance and PowerSports

4850 E. Airport Dr

Ontario, CA 91761

909-390-3944 extension 267

 

Fax 909-390-3950

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Jt1's idea of a self circulating cooler makes sense.

You know, years ago I saw a kit to water cool the heads on an air cooled 2 stroke motorcycle. They mounted the 'radiator' physically higher then the head and it employed no pump. They claimed heat rising caused circulation and had test results they claimed proved it. Never tried it (illegal for my class) but was intrigued. When I read Jt1's idea that was the first thing I thought of.

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There are 2 pumps I have seen for sale... both look the same.. the Tilton pump comes with a choice of seal types... Viton or Buena...

 

Mocal pump

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/mocal1.htm

 

Tilton pump with options

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=TRANSCOOL

 

 

BMWs run these

http://www.bimmerworld.com/html/differential-fluid-cooler.htm

 

 

Viper guys get a new one ripped on price... poor SOBs

http://www.viperalley.com/viperrev/showproduct.php/product/214/cat/1

 

Corvettes come with diff coolers from teh factory now..

 

 

 

good oil....

 

http://www.bmw325i.net/rev_redline_gear_oil.shtml

 

 

 

 

 

 

Other considerations are the fact that there are going to be metal fragments in the oil... the Tilton pump is advertised as being able to handle the trash in the oil... the gear oil could become as hot as 450 degrees... so the pump must also be able to handle high temps...

 

A few things I have seen from the old Works rally cars as well...

 

1. They used a temp sender and a relay to cut the pump on above 200 degrees... You should provide a kill switch for the system on the dash...

 

2. the pump and cooler should not be higher than the gear oil level in the differential housing... this keeps the oil level stable and solves problems with drainback overfilling the rear end and causing leaks from the pinion and side seals... it will also keep the pump primed at all times...

 

3. The pump should be mounted after the oil cooler to ensure it does not get too hot...

 

4. the oil return should be well away from the oil pickup... this will ensure that the entire diff is cooled instead of recirculating the same little puddle of oil... I think the sheet steel baffles in the finned competition cover were there to accomplish this (poorly)...

4a. I used the WORKS design and added a return hole in the top channel in front of the pinion... My oil pickup would be the drain hole... this greatly separates the pickup and return.. and it will draw heat away from the front half of the differential instead of just the rear...

 

5. I was told that the cooler does not have to be very big... I chose an 11 row compact Setrab cooler for mine... It is my understanding that the oil will not circulate very quickly with the commonly available pumps.. there is no need to overcool the oil in a large cooler... target temps should be in the 250-300 degree range (check your oil specs)...

 

6. adding a catch tank is insurance for others on the track... as always, use a catch tank with any system that uses a pump to force fluid flow... this will ensure that foaming oil does not ruin someone else's day at the track...

 

 

I have posted pics of these ideas numerous times... and I have had the ideas shot down numerous times by a few experts here... I don't know what to think about some of these opinions... I see temps over 400 degrees on occasion with my little puny L-6 powered 240Z with an R-180... You are not going to convince me that my new V-8 powered 240Z is not going to need a cooler as well...

It has been said to me that I will not significantly increase the life of my LSD by adding a cooler... I call bullsit on that... and the same person told me that the racers he knows running coolers rebuild their clutchpacks every few seasons... I have to call BS on this... first off WHERE THE HELL DO YOU BUY PARTS???? good friggin question... As far as I can see... you might as well buy an entire new rear end.. because parts for the LOM-59, and LOM-55 units ARE NOT AVAILABLE!!!!

 

I am running a GD cooler... and screw the finned covers...

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ok... special order does not mean shiat... If I need parts and pony up the duckage.. it ain't gonna happen...

I have already consigned myself to purchasing a helical LSD when my LOM-59 goes south... I just hope my cooler will make it last at least 5 years...

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It has been said to me that I will not significantly increase the life of my LSD by adding a cooler... I call bullsit on that... and the same person told me that the racers he knows running coolers rebuild their clutchpacks every few seasons... I have to call BS on this... first off WHERE THE HELL DO YOU BUY PARTS???? good friggin question... As far as I can see... you might as well buy an entire new rear end.. because parts for the LOM-59, and LOM-55 units ARE NOT AVAILABLE!!!!

 

I am running a GD cooler... and screw the finned covers...

I know people who have been running R200s on the track for years and have never had to "rebuild" them. I don't know who you're referring to that said that you have to "rebuild" them, but that hasn't been my experience. I've heard about reshimming them, but that also hasn't been my experience. In fact my experience was that I ran the crappy version of the Nissan LSD at autox and on the track and as a daily driver for about 6 years, and when I pulled the clutches apart they had NO measureable wear.

 

I think you need to cut back on the vitriol though. You're getting a little too angry and seem to be taking comments over an oil cooler way too personally.

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That's why I said, "Pricing/ship date are... volatile":wink:

 

ok... special order does not mean shiat... If I need parts and pony up the duckage.. it ain't gonna happen...

I have already consigned myself to purchasing a helical LSD when my LOM-59 goes south... I just hope my cooler will make it last at least 5 years...

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I'm not mad... no vitriol... I just stated that my research into this with many other sources including BMW race car fabricators have come up with many facts.. that were poo pooed here... with statements that are either incomplete or untrue.. because this has been brought up many times on this forum...

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bjhines quote "I have posted pics of these ideas numerous times... and I have had the ideas shot down numerous times by a few experts here"

 

Ben, I will not shoot down your thoughts and suggestions. They are well thought out and I'll put them to good use. I've purchased a Tilton pump and I'm searching for a deal on a small Setrab cooler. I'm sure these will work well with your mounting suggestions and go a long way to help cool the rear end. Also, I have decided to pull the 3:36 from my parts car and order a new Quaife. This will give me a slightly taller ratio than my present 3:70 and I hope to be able to get more use form second gear, especially coming out of Oak Tree at VIR. The 3:70 make second to low there and I bog a little having to use third.

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