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Timing belts


Bob_H

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So I see several timing belts available. I searched through our previous threads with no real conclusion on the diffrences.

I can source a stock RB26 timing belt for around $30. The Greddy one for aroudn $130, and they go up from there.

What is the advantage of the higher priced ones? Intended use is sustained high rpm use - i.e. 5000-8000 rpm.

I'm about sick of reading on the other forums written by 13 year olds speculating on the mad tyte improvements the blingy timing belts give. I have a headache....

-Bob

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I would use a uprated one simply because most use materials that hold up longer than the plain oem part.

 

I first bought the blue Greddy belt for a hundred some odd dollars, but ended up changing it out to a Nismo brand because I wanted a black one to complement the color scheme.

 

I had Matt send me one from Jipan.

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Basically if you don't mind changing the timing belt religiously at 60kmiles and don't intend to modify the engine for much more power then stock that stock $30 will be fine, after all nissan put it in there in the first place right? Although Nissan also like any other factory encourages that you not modify the engine per the skyline manual that I have. That said the Nismo one is stronger again for a reason, mainly it is FOR cars that are modified for more power and offers a factory part that is stronger to provide added insurance in a high performance application.

The other aftermarket ones simply take the belt to the next higher level because they are specifically for engines that will be pushed harder then stock levels. The Power Enterprise one that I put in the RBZ is supposiedly 4 times stronger then stock and is supposidly not supposed to stretch over time providing better timing even as it ages. The Nismo one and greddy one are similar. Considering the labor involved with changing it, you should do it while the engine is out of the car, as it is easier and the fact that the RB is an interferance style engine and will do far more damage financally to your wallet if the belt breaks when you turn up the wick then the cost difference between the stock belt and an aftermarket one. Simply put, would you rather spend $130 and have more piece of mind then use a stock belt and turn up the wick on performance and have it break then have to replace lots of valves, pistons perhaps even the entire head, you are looking at a lot more money. It's a choice you need to make based on how hard you are going to push the engine.

Chris Rummel

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  • 2 years later...

I've never used anything but stock belts in anything. Timing belt stress is increased by the valve train load. The heavier the spring and higher the lift, the higher the load. I've never used any of the American dual valve spring sets, but I've run the heaviest Japanese single springs with 11+mm of lift and never had a failure. On heavy spring, high lift motors I tell people to change the belt every two years, regardless.

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I've never had a motor give trouble with a stock belt and I run a stock type belt on my street/drag motor, twin springs, high lift, 9500rpm, 1200hp, its been fine and I didn't change it after last season but I spose a new one every 2 years or so would be wise.

 

I think these aftermarket belts are just another way to get more $$ off ya cause its blue or red and has a nice brand name on it, lol

 

Rob

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I've never had a motor give trouble with a stock belt and I run a stock type belt on my street/drag motor, twin springs, high lift, 9500rpm, 1200hp, its been fine and I didn't change it after last season but I spose a new one every 2 years or so would be wise.

 

I think these aftermarket belts are just another way to get more $$ off ya cause its blue or red and has a nice brand name on it, lol

 

Rob

 

So does that mean the Gates Racing belt that is for sale is nothing more than a money grab? because I've found a bunch of working belts that are not "racing" spec but are proper thickness, pitch, tooth count, and length.

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I have a Tomei RB26 timing belt that is in excellent shape. I will pawn it off for like... 30 bucks + Shipping.

 

I figure it was used for less than 1,000k before the engine lost an oil pump. I can bend it back slightly and there is no cracking, and it is CONSIDERABLY thicker than a stock belt.

 

If I had the choice, I'd run the Tomei belt over the standard.

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So does that mean the Gates Racing belt that is for sale is nothing more than a money grab? because I've found a bunch of working belts that are not "racing" spec but are proper thickness, pitch, tooth count, and length.

 

I'm not saying the arn't stronger, or that if you hung a huge weight off of them they wouldn't hold more than a stock one, all I'm saying is, my motor has about the best/strongest head gear you can get, I rev it to 10,000rpm at times with pretty big boost and I put the same stock belt back on from last year and its fine.

 

I've lifted complete engines with 10 year old RB cam belts, they are pretty damn strong.

 

When I pull it off at the end of this year I'll measure it to see if it has stretched if your all interested.

 

Go for the "lable" belt if it makes you feel more comfortable.

 

Rob

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Well in that case, anyone building an RB that wants to use a standard nitrile rubber belt instead of the Gates Racing belt can go for a Gates T291 belt used on AEB VW engines before they changed to the new tensioner and 153 teeth.

 

The size you would need is:

 

tooth count - 152.

tooth pitch - 8mm trapezoidal.

belt width - 25mm.

belt length - 1216 mm. (need to double check on that, but it's same as dayco 94407)

 

The T291 I bought fits these specs, and it's been verified by a Gates International service rep that it's the same as the racing belt but a little weaker, he said. They developed the Racing belt because of the "heat" that the belt is exposed to... that's what his notes say.

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