KTM-EXC Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 Not sure if this is of any help, has anyone tried there Turbo cam? .480 lift 272 intake x 274 exhaust http://racetep.com/zturboeng.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted December 23, 2006 Author Share Posted December 23, 2006 hurmm.. RaceTep is a company I can seem to trust! very similar to Zgad's.. slightly off though! hurmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KTM-EXC Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 Im guessing your being sarcastic. I just did a search on RaceTep, and scratch that idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted December 23, 2006 Author Share Posted December 23, 2006 no i am serious... RaceTep is a very well known company... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 Prox, read these before you do anything. I searched "TEP cam" for what that is worth... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98699 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=78446 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=90534 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=91056 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted December 24, 2006 Share Posted December 24, 2006 The second cam is an Isky part, this cam is a little more radical, and I would not recommend going past this specification for any turbo L28. ANY Turbo L28 Jeff? I did the gearing checks and I need 28" tires and 650HP+ if limited only to 7500rpm. ANY? LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted December 24, 2006 Author Share Posted December 24, 2006 well holy cow... TEP may not be the best! Ok.. i'm going Zgad's grind.. its dyno proven and everyone has had success except for the small batch of mis-grinds haha thank you guys.. JeffP.. your specs are definatly wild! That 2nd cam sounds radical?! Maybe I should specify this car is a daily driver.. so would Zgad's or the Elgin be right up my way? or would the wild cam setup from Isky be too much for a daily driver? The second cam is an Isky part, this cam is a little more radical, and I would not recommend going past this specification for any turbo L28.55 degrees of overlap, .580 lift intake/ .540 lift exhaust lobe center 114, intake opens 31 BTDC exhaust opens 67 ATDC 290 duration intake 270 duration exhaust. Those two grinds will do just about whatever anyone with a turbo could want. The Elgin cam works very well, the Isky cam is really good, but it more of a topend cam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted December 24, 2006 Share Posted December 24, 2006 Jeff's car is really sedate and could easily be used in daily driven service. Given he gets 3psi at almost any rpm, the torque below boost threshold is very good making for great drivability. He can better give performance on the Elgin Grind, but as I recall he would break 30mpg during cruising. EFI and Turbos are a great combination! BTW, that is not the "radical" grind from Isky's Turbo Lineup. Ron is like a mad scientist when it comes to Nissan L-Grinds, he has some FAR more radical stuff out there, you just need ask! LOL But like Jeff says...probably not for the street. Hence my admonitioning and chiding Jeff about 'ANY' Turbo Z! LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted December 24, 2006 Author Share Posted December 24, 2006 maybe I will call Ron at Isky and see what he has! So the Elgin would be a great daily driver with a good powerband?! Now you guys are makin this tough! hmm.. Zgad ... Elgin ... Isky .. bwaaaa?! I will call Ron on tuesday and come back with some numbers =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernardd Posted December 25, 2006 Share Posted December 25, 2006 Prox, I have Jeff's elgin cam on my car. It's no problem for daily driving. The car is very smooth and tractable. The vacuum at idle is about 16in or so. I get a full 22 psi by 3700rpm with my setup. That might be a bit different for someone with a stick shift as I have a loosened up converter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted December 25, 2006 Author Share Posted December 25, 2006 Ok new updated list to compare everything side by side Z-gad developed his grind with a noticeable performance boost Intake 490 lift 276 duration Lift Exhaust 480 lift 266 duration 114* lobe center 44* overlap Elgin Cam Intake 480 lift 266 duration Exhuast 480 lift 266 duration 112* lobe center 48* overlap intake open was 21 degrees@50 and exhaust I believe if memory serves me correctly 72 degrees. Isky cam Intake 580 lift 290 duration Exhuast 540 lift 270 duration Lobe Center 114* Overlap 55* MSA Stage I (Schneider) Intake .460 lift 260 durations lift Exhuast .440 lift 250 duration MSA Stage II (Schneider) Intake .460 lift 270 durations lift Exhuast .460 lift 260 duration Schneider Stage III Intake 488 lift 284 duration Exhuast 488 lift 270 duration Lobe 114 RaceTep Intake 480 lift 272 duration Exhuast 480 lift 274 exhuast All of the cam's are very similar except a few minor changes in lift and duration and lobe center .. EXCEPT the Isky cam.. every cam ranges around 480 lift... then the Isky is 540!?! holy freakn crap... Jeff can you please describe the driving characteristics on that Isky cam?! too me and available cams.. the Isky sounds wicked.. definatly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted December 25, 2006 Share Posted December 25, 2006 Dude, Next to useless without 0.05 duration information. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tec280zx Posted December 26, 2006 Share Posted December 26, 2006 Has anybody used JUN cams before? Pretty pricey. Scroll to the bottom: http://www.upgrademotoring.com/performance/jun/highperfcamshafts.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KTM-EXC Posted December 30, 2006 Share Posted December 30, 2006 Has anybody used JUN cams before? Pretty pricey. Scroll to the bottom: http://www.upgrademotoring.com/performance/jun/highperfcamshafts.htm Almost $800!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffp Posted December 30, 2006 Share Posted December 30, 2006 I looked for my cam card but cant find it. I believe the duration @ .050 was 255 and 270 or so. I would not recommend the Isky cam unless you are race only, you will need good fuel for that cam, 87 octane will not cut it with boost. You guys need to realize the @ .050 readings are not that good for a turbo engine. You crack the valve .005 off the seat and you are pushing air into the cylinder under boost, so you really need to have a good handle on the opening and closing points of the intake valve. I would recommend the Elgin grind for just about any street car. Bernard has the old head and cam from my engine and according to him and his testing that cam pulls him to 7K no problem, and he also can feel the power coming on VERY HARD @ 5K to 6K and that seems to be the peek power point for that cam. I cant give you any info from my engine as the cam timing and valve lash was incorrect, the timing being changed due to the incorrect valve lash. So you will still get good fuel mileage with the cam, provided you keep your foot out of it. The thing you need to understand is that you are basically running tow engines, OFF BOOST, or the N/A operation of the engine, and that really is what you need to decide, how much do you want off boost for performance. Then you have the second part of the equation, BOOSTED. There is a VERY big difference between off boost and on boost of ANY engine. So get the power you want, within reason, off boost and go from there. I would not recommend trying to get 300hp N/A and then trying to boost the engine. A cam that will give you that much power, first of all, it will be making power in the 6-7K rpm range, be soggy on the low end, and innefficient at low rpm,s until you get the induction flowing well at higher rpm's. So go with a mild cam gerind. Get the lift high, the duration realitively short, and overlap no greater then 50 degrees. That will be your best setup for the L engine with mild porting. Myself, I went to the extreme, but in doing so, I am now setup to run just about any cam I want without spring bind. Smaller is not an issue for me so I can always roll back the cam specs and do more testing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted January 1, 2007 Share Posted January 1, 2007 "Smaller is not an issue for me so I can always roll back the cam specs and do more testing." I wonder where that cam will go when JeffP "Rolls Back"? LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 Jeff, In almost all cases, more information is better. Blindly going by advertised duration and not paying any heed to the potential differences in ramp rate (and hence 0.05 duration) is not a particularly intelligent way to select a camshaft for any application. 250/270 is a relatively large split for intake/exhaust 0.05 durations I would have thought? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Gad Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 When I selected the cam I chose to run, I contacted Ron at ISKY cams and explained the engine setup (turbocharged stock longblock with bolt-ons), the turbo I was using (T-66 p-trim with a .58 a/r turbing housing), the RPM band I was looking for (where I had full boost of 20 psi at roughly 4400 rpm's), where I was intending to rev the motor to (7000 ish rpm's), and that I wanted the power band of the cam to match the power band of the turbo (4400+ rpm's). I knew I wanted 114* lobe centers and a staggered intake/exhaust duration with a longer duration on the intake than the exhaust, to speed up the exhaust flow out of the engine to help aid in turbo spool (atleast that was my theory behind staggering the intake and exhaust lift/duration). I am certainly not advocating the cam I chose to everyone, as a turbo motor's power band is somewhat dictated by turbo size and exhaust a/r. I don't think that a stock size turbo would have benefitted from my cam choice, but the large frame turbo certainly did. just my .02 mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted January 3, 2007 Author Share Posted January 3, 2007 Thank you Jeff, Tony and Mike! honestly.. after comparing everything.. I LOVE Mike's cam setup... its a bit more agressive than the Elgin cam specs Jeff posted and more agressive than Schnieders Do you guys think it would match up my turbo? Holset HY35W Turbine Housing 9 cm2 = 0.65 A/R Turbine Wheel = 70mm dia (60mm exducer) Compressor Wheel = 54mm inducer Choke point = 29psi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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