MONZTER Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 Hi David, Been running my tank set-up for over 1 year now. I have been autocrossing it as well as daily driving it. I can say I have never had a single problem with fuel starvation. I can run below a 1/4 tank for autocross and not a problem. I will use this same set-up for my turbo motor I am building with no worries. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted September 13, 2008 Share Posted September 13, 2008 finally got my 'monzter copy' fuel gas tank cell completed and installed. big kudos to jeff for answering my numerous emails, phone calls and questions so i could figure out how to do it. just fired up the z and it [on initial test] works great. i plan to get a few miles on it prior to heading to ohio at the end of this month for the 08 convention and lapping at mid-ohio. i'll post pics soon [tried to upload them but keep getting a 'FastCGI Error' thingy]. advantages; i've retained my spare tire well, looks completely stock from the back or underneath, can be installed in any 240z i may have. disadvantages; took a long time and was $$$. if this all tests ok, i'll have my early 280z tank for sale. -6 an fittings welded [feed] where the drain plug was, [return] into the stock location. was blasted and powdercoated on the outside but could use a 'coating' inside prior to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONZTER Posted September 13, 2008 Share Posted September 13, 2008 David, looking forward to the pictures, glad to have helped. MONZTER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted September 13, 2008 Share Posted September 13, 2008 here are some of my pics. they look nearly the same as monzter's. filled up today, no leaks [thankfully] and so far so good... here's a shot of the tank [w/o the cap]. the an fittings are for feed [top] and return [bottom]. i used a 1/4 cold rolled steel plate and had an oval cnc'd that provided the form to shape the tank around and the cap to bolt to. top shot-shows the atl black box mounted to the added baffle. here's a 'final product' pic. gave it a quick flat black rattle can job but ran out of paint before i could hit the top-figured no one sees the top anyway and i'll deal with it later... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryb Posted September 17, 2008 Share Posted September 17, 2008 I plan on baffling my tank this winter and was thinking of making one using the ATL trap doors. I dont plan on doing "too" much track time with the Z..........(I have a track SX to thrash:wink:) so keep in mind its not for hard core lapping sessions. I have the following questions.... Can I get away without using the secondary pump? Use the tank to baffle slosh....I also want to avoid using a top hatch and just weld the hole back up. Why did you use flexible line for the pickup and not a solid line? Did you use their pickup?...if so do you have any comments to share? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted September 17, 2008 Share Posted September 17, 2008 I plan on baffling my tank this winter and was thinking of making one using the ATL trap doors. I dont plan on doing "too" much track time with the Z..........(I have a track SX to thrash:wink:) so keep in mind its not for hard core lapping sessions. I have the following questions.... Can I get away without using the secondary pump? Jerry, neither monzter or myself use a secondary pump. the only pump is in-tank-in the atl black box. Use the tank to baffle slosh....I also want to avoid using a top hatch and just weld the hole back up. Why did you use flexible line for the pickup and not a solid line? there is no real pickup line. Did you use their pickup? yes, inside the atl bb the pump is mounted and attached to the inlet side of it is a 'sock' filter that sits on the bottom of the box-it is the pickup...if so do you have any comments to share? . jerry, my suggestion-if you want to seal the tank after the mods would be this [monzter feel free to add your thoughs as well]. cut the top open as we did, weld in an additional baffle [similar to what our black box is mounted to] and install the 'trap doors' as we did. i think then i would fabricate some sort of dual or triple pick up system. perhaps a pickup at each end and one in the middle. i'd also probably [for the middle pickup] create a sort of can that attaches to the bottom of the tank with the flappers on it-allowing fuel in but not out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryb Posted September 17, 2008 Share Posted September 17, 2008 Never mind.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryb Posted September 17, 2008 Share Posted September 17, 2008 Thanx 1 tuff z...very helpful. Sounds like I can ..... Weld in a baffle...how tall? build 2 black boxes (4x4x4") and attach to the baffle..one on each end dual pickups, one into each BB Hard line to AN fittings Return line into one BB May be overkill but while Im in there ....what the heck..... All comments appreciated...I want to do this once and correctly... considering it will be sealed tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted September 17, 2008 Share Posted September 17, 2008 Thanx 1 tuff z...very helpful. Sounds like I can ..... Weld in a baffle...how tall? my baffle is approx 3.5" tall build 2 black boxes (4x4x4") and attach to the baffle..one on each end dual pickups, one into each BB Hard line to AN fittings yes Return line into one BB if you prefer. monzters thought was not to return 'warm' fuel back to the feed. my return dumps back into the bb and no issues...yet i'd consider the removable cap. if you're interested, i have a second ring for the cap to bolt to. it's a 1/4" cold rolled steel place that was cnc cut, 24 holes around the perimeter, tapped & threaded. i can send u a pic if you'd like. May be overkill but while Im in there ....what the heck..... All comments appreciated...I want to do this once and correctly... considering it will be sealed tight. let me know on the ring... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junglist Posted September 17, 2008 Share Posted September 17, 2008 1 Tuff Z...it looks like you used the molded black box instead of the steel one? If so, how did you attach it to your tank? I'm very glad I found this thread and I'm thinking of using one of their ST520 or ST528 surge tanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted September 17, 2008 Share Posted September 17, 2008 1 Tuff Z...it looks like you used the molded black box instead of the steel one? If so, how did you attach it to your tank? I'm very glad I found this thread and I'm thinking of using one of their ST520 or ST528 surge tanks. if you look at the middle pic [overhead shot] in post #24 you'll see that the blackbox is against the 'added' baffle. we bolted it onto the baffle with stainless screws and sits on the bottom of the tank. the atl part number is cfd600 [go to pg1 of this thread and see the atl catalog image monzter posted]. here's a pic of the cnc 'cap ring' i have available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryb Posted September 17, 2008 Share Posted September 17, 2008 PM you....will take you up on that ring! Thanx!! let me know on the ring... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 I added a fitting to the drain plug in my 240 tank, running to a Walbro 255 LPH inline pump and have not had any fuel starvation problems thus far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 I added a fitting to the drain plug in my 240 tank, running to a Walbro 255 LPH inline pump and have not had any fuel starvation problems thus far. that is how i had my setup-drain plug, filter, pump and still experienced starvation during longer hi-g corners-this was also with an early more baffled 280 tank. go figure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 i was asked this morning "Do you have any more of the steel flanges for use in creating a "monzter" gas tank? If so, please let me know the price." i contacted my friend who is a cnc machinest and made the 'ring' or steel flange that was used to mod my fuel tank-modeled after monzters. he told me that to make them, it would be a minimum run of 5 and cost would be $50 + shipping. i asked him that if we had 5 who wanted them could he modify them to have only 1/4" of material outside of the bolt holes vs. the 1/2" he did for me [which was a bit too large and had to be trimmed]. he said no problem. specs-1/4" cold rolled steel, cnc cut, holes drilled & tapped to fit the atl standard fuel cell blank cap [which is $50 from earls store #1 in calif]. i'm going to post this in the group buy forum... here's the thead: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=935017#post935017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONZTER Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 Great Idea David, I am sure this will be a big help to everyone out there. Thanks for helping the group. MONZTER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 Great Idea David, I am sure this will be a big help to everyone out there. Thanks for helping the group. MONZTER thanks-you did pave the way. plus, i gotta give back sometime... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 The ATL stuff is nice but if you are on a budget using a stock newer efi tank ( I used an 86-93 Supra) with a 255lph Walbro in-tank pump can be done for around $150 with pump. I have run less than 5 gallons and auto X'd without slosh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 I've noticed some 12 gal NHRA fuel cells cost around $80-100... I'm confused why you guys want to spend nearly $700 to modify the stock fuel tank. Any particular reason? I don't want to be an ass but I am curious Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 couple reasons for my own application. no mods to the body retain my spare tire well [had a flat on my return trip from daytona last year] that would have been an extremely long process without the spare tire can be installed in any 240z retains stock 'look' from any view Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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