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Well I was wrong, it wasnt the clutch


Booztd 3

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Never experienced a failure like this before, but glad I didnt take the trans out. Luckily I have spares....

 

I give you........the output shaft....

 

Output_Shaft.JPG

 

Remnants

 

Output_Shaft_2.JPG

 

I spent about 20 minutes cleaning all of this out of the diff/rear end

 

Output_Shaft_4.JPG

 

The good output shaft that just went in....

 

Output_Shaft_3.JPG

 

 

Car seems to be driving fine. It took a 1/2 power shift as expected just moments ago :D

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That my friend is why I have not dropped the hammer on my monster yet....

 

I only have a R200 at this time, so I know if a R230 will give like that (and its happened to others besides yours) my R200 won't take the lickin and keep on tickin.... :lmao:

 

I'm glad for you, that it didn't cause you but a minute down time. I couldn't be so lucky....

I need to get my rig to the dyno, just to see how close to those numbers I can get. I think I have enough turbo... whata you think ??

 

Anyway, glad your up and running already!! :2thumbs:

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You know i was kinda thinking that> A buddy in a z32 recently did the same thing but his broke on the line and only moved about a inch :>

 

He was able to baby it also.... dont know why i didnt think of that. Go auto!!!! the triple is way to harsh on stock drivetrain parts

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A new member here from the 240-SX groups “underground”, posted some info regarding the short nose R-200V, linked to another page that showed someone broke their R-230 output shafts, same as shown here, (link below). Am I missing something here or does it seem the Q-45 R-200V and the R-230 have a weakness, i.e. the output shafts?

 

Link to Busted Short nose output shafts...

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A new member here from the 240-SX groups “underground”, posted some info regarding the short nose R-200V, linked to another page that showed someone broke their R-230 output shafts, same as shown here, (link below). Am I missing something here or does it seem the Q-45 R-200V and the R-230 have a weakness, i.e. the output shafts?

 

Link to Busted Short nose output shafts...

 

 

The 90-96 Q45 (R200) features the same 6-bolt 30-spline axles, hubs, and output shafts used in the 90-96 Nissan 300ZX TT (R230).

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The 90-96 Q45 (R200) features the same 6-bolt 30-spline axles, hubs, and output shafts used in the 90-96 Nissan 300ZX TT (R230).

 

 

… and that is what concerns me. They are breaking?!? faint.gif

 

The R-230V and Q-45 R-200V utilize the same output shafts, (they are the only ones with 6 bolt “Star” flanges, right?), and are supposed to be “the burly” short nose output shafts, yet here is a pic of a busted one! What I’m getting at here is that if the output shafts are prone to failure then these diffs and the potential benefits they bring to the table vs. the long nose R-200, i.e. “toughness”, are not so beneficial after all?!

 

Maybe I’m not seeing everything, or something is missing in this and before my panties get any more bound up than they are right now, shock.gif

(starting my own Q-45 R-200V, double A-arm, aluminum hub, 5 lug, Z-32 brake project for my super-charged SBC w/T-56 S-30 280-Z), we probably should get some more info from "Booztd3" such as, “how is he launching”, i.e. abusive stomp and dump with slicks or preloading the drive train before unleashing hells fiery?

 

 

In short, did that output shaft break due to a manufacturing flaw in that particular part, or because it was launched abusively in a manner that would break anything short of a top fuel rear end, or are these output shafts not as tough as the long nose R-200 output shafts, (haven’t seen any of those busted before...)?

please.gif

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About the r200 longnose output shafts, I havent seen any break personally but I know that some have been broken with 450whp/500wtq. JasonNA2T has done this. First things to break for z31's are usually the stub axles at the hub, then as the power goes up the stuff twards the diff starts breaking.

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… and that is what concerns me. They are breaking?!? faint.gif

 

The R-230V and Q-45 R-200V utilize the same output shafts, (they are the only ones with 6 bolt “Star†flanges, right?), and are supposed to be “the burly†short nose output shafts, yet here is a pic of a busted one! What I’m getting at here is that if the output shafts are prone to failure then these diffs and the potential benefits they bring to the table vs. the long nose R-200, i.e. “toughnessâ€, are not so beneficial after all?!

 

Maybe I’m not seeing everything, or something is missing in this and before my panties get any more bound up than they are right now, shock.gif

(starting my own Q-45 R-200V, double A-arm, aluminum hub, 5 lug, Z-32 brake project for my super-charged SBC w/T-56 S-30 280-Z), we probably should get some more info from "Booztd3" such as, “how is he launchingâ€, i.e. abusive stomp and dump with slicks or preloading the drive train before unleashing hells fiery?

 

 

In short, did that output shaft break due to a manufacturing flaw in that particular part, or because it was launched abusively in a manner that would break anything short of a top fuel rear end, or are these output shafts not as tough as the long nose R-200 output shafts, (haven’t seen any of those busted before...)?

please.gif

 

 

I'm guessing that the severe wheelhop that happened as I was doing my burnout is what started the process, and a good 1/2 shift just finished the damage, lol

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Hmmm... maybe I should stick with the R200 and not go to the R230 as I had planned...

I haven't experienced any failures like this with the R200 and Z31 CV's (knock on wood)

 

Thats because you're loading the suspension, and keeping it real, like we all should be :)

 

I have yet to see an automatic + R200/R230 failure. From my experience its all been due to some type of violent drivetrain shock (high RPM dumps, or extreme wheelhop)

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Not trying to keep you from going auto or anything but there are plenty of high horsepower cars still using manual trannies and launching hard (6-speed supras for example) Im sure there is something you can do to strengthen the rear its just how far you want to go with it. If it were me I would stay with the manual, but I just love having that feeling of shifting in my opinion.

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I have one main reason why to go auto other then what's stated above.

With the right converter the same car ( auto vs man) will ALWAYS be faster.

 

It has been said that with an auto you can gain as much as a 10th per the number of shifts in the manual!!!!!!

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