markrolston@mac.com Posted November 14, 2007 Share Posted November 14, 2007 I spent the last few months making some radical changes to the drivetrain and suspension. I also managed to get the motor retuned after changing the boost controller setup. Check it out: http://web.mac.com/markrolston/NewSite/Z-Blog/Entries/2007/10/29_Handling_Upgrades.html btw- does anyone have any info on the OS Giken 3.0L bottom-end? Best place to purchase it? Better option? Can you guess where I'm going with this!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownrusty Posted November 14, 2007 Share Posted November 14, 2007 Beautiful and stunning as always Mark. 620whp at 24psi must feel incredible. Where did you source your aluminum lower control arms? Yasin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth-Z Posted November 14, 2007 Share Posted November 14, 2007 btw- does anyone have any info on the OS Giken 3.0L bottom-end? Best place to purchase it? Better option? Can you guess where I'm going with this!? Nice what you already have but I guess you can never have enough power eh? There are two RB 3L options. The OS Giken kit or the Australian RB30 block. Careless has compiled alot of RB30 info. Here is 288 pages on Skylines Australia about the RB30DOHC conversion. Takes a while to get by all the chit chat though. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R33-RB30-Conversion-t15420.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted November 14, 2007 Share Posted November 14, 2007 I spent the last few months making some radical changes to the drivetrain and suspension. I also managed to get the motor retuned after changing the boost controller setup. Check it out: http://web.mac.com/markrolston/NewSite/Z-Blog/Entries/2007/10/29_Handling_Upgrades.html btw- does anyone have any info on the OS Giken 3.0L bottom-end? Best place to purchase it? Better option? Can you guess where I'm going with this!? Better option is as Stealth-Z mentioned. And it will be hard to filter out all the good information in that lengthy Skylines Australia thread. There are some RB30 users here. Check out RIPSNZ 9 second RB thread, Rob'll show you whats up =) 20,000 for the OS Giken 3 Litre and having to buy custom parts from them in the event of a failure (unless it uses two RB26 type headgaskets) is a shitty deal. I'm sure the engine is built to perform, but look at what RIPS is doing on his website, it will make you think twice about OS Giken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted November 14, 2007 Share Posted November 14, 2007 Also, Marc, I know someone with a block that could use a new home. It's rather rusted out but it's got enough meat on it to be bored and reused. Crank will need to be inspected, but he's trying to get rid of it, as he's moving to Japan, so let me know if you're interested. It's just the block and whatever else is in it. Everything else you have on your RB26 will bolt right up =) All you would need is a new tensioner/idlers, timing belt (numerous options), crank collar, bearings, piston/rod combo, and drill out the headstud holes to 12mm to accept RB26 head. bore and hone it, and pop on that head, and you're good to go. You will also need to grind down some humps on the top of the block near the deck to accept an exhaust flange for an RB26. Also not a big deal. Take a grinder to it and smoothen it out when you're done. This way, you can probably use your entire ancillary setup and just change out the long block and be back in business relatively quickly. New RB26 headgasket requires no modification either. Heck, you could probably build up the block, check the compression, and fasten the head and be back up in less than a week. For you, it's swapping a bunch of stuff that's going to take the longest, because you can do all the long and hard work outside of the engine bay at the engine shop or in your garage on a bench WHILE still driving your RB26 (until you take the head off to check compression) You might have to lower your mounts a touch.... also not a big deal. You can get the proper idler/tensioner and strengthened belt from Rob @ RIPSNZ for a good price. Block needs drilling to accept tensioner stud, not a big deal at all. You have a perfect setup to go towards RB30 if you really want, and you'll make about 15-20% more torque and power at about the same RPM as RB26/25. But isn't 600 good for you? LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted November 14, 2007 Share Posted November 14, 2007 Whats the story on the driveshaft shop axels? Are they a custom heavy duty driveshaft? Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amorfin Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 OS Ginken quoted me something like $10,000 or $11,000 for their block. It comes with all the internals, you jest need the head and turbos. They said you can only use their cluth with it, which is $2,500-$3,000. It's not really a bad idea if you have all that cash to spend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markrolston@mac.com Posted November 15, 2007 Author Share Posted November 15, 2007 Thanks. The control arms are from Arizona Z-car.Nice parts. Beautiful and stunning as always Mark. 620whp at 24psi must feel incredible. Where did you source your aluminum lower control arms? Yasin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markrolston@mac.com Posted November 15, 2007 Author Share Posted November 15, 2007 They are rebuilt and hardened for race duty. They took forever to get done- four months. Mostly the guy just wouldn't put them in the que. Whats the story on the driveshaft shop axels? Are they a custom heavy duty driveshaft? Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 OS Ginken quoted me something like $10,000 or $11,000 for their block. It comes with all the internals, you jest need the head and turbos. They said you can only use their cluth with it, which is $2,500-$3,000. It's not really a bad idea if you have all that cash to spend well he's got the turbos and the head, needs a new clutch though, so 14,000... but the turbos might need some upgradin'! ends up being 16,000 + when you sell some other stuff to get money back. For the proprietary parts, it seems as though going with an RB30E block would be more ideal and possibly just as good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S15 200sx owner Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 Mark, I see you also run the AZC rear arms and what looks like their alloy M bar and alloy drop links as well, what are your opinions on all these parts? Well built? Fit well? etc etc. Also what rate springs do you run for the track and what size sway bars? What size and brand brakes are you running there, how do you find them? Sorry for all the Q's Clint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amorfin Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 I know he has AZC brakes also. They are nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synthtk Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 Looks great as always. Very Jealous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdizzy204 Posted November 17, 2007 Share Posted November 17, 2007 mark, i have an australian rb30 available for purchase if interested. pm me for details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted November 17, 2007 Share Posted November 17, 2007 Mark - can you please give some insight to the slick looking hitch as I'm needing to do something similar if I ever want to put a passenger seat back in (try fitting four 15x10 w/ hoosiers ...). With the new LS power I'll want to be able to give 'rides'. Nice well balanced car you got there by the way. Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markrolston@mac.com Posted November 17, 2007 Author Share Posted November 17, 2007 Stay tuned - I'll post pictures on my blog in a day or two of the bumper+hitch setup. mark Mark - can you please give some insight to the slick looking hitch as I'm needing to do something similar if I ever want to put a passenger seat back in (try fitting four 15x10 w/ hoosiers ...). With the new LS power I'll want to be able to give 'rides'. Nice well balanced car you got there by the way. Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markrolston@mac.com Posted November 17, 2007 Author Share Posted November 17, 2007 The arms seem fine but I haven't had them on long enough for real feedback. They allowed me to set up the ideal geometry so in that sense they work great. I wish the rear setup was as slick (the whole billet thing) as the front. the spring rates are 275 f, 250 r. works great with the struts. The sway bars are 19mm. It's a relatively light car so no need for overkill. The brakes are the arizona Z 12" 4 piston rears and 13.3" six piston fronts. I did some custom work to make give the red "datsun" look. Mark, I see you also run the AZC rear arms and what looks like their alloy M bar and alloy drop links as well, what are your opinions on all these parts? Well built? Fit well? etc etc. Also what rate springs do you run for the track and what size sway bars? What size and brand brakes are you running there, how do you find them? Sorry for all the Q's Clint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_H Posted November 18, 2007 Share Posted November 18, 2007 Mark, It was good to see you at the track again last weekend. Every time I see you drive yours, even with the problems you had in the past, it still makes me jealous that mine is still sitting in the garage with several "projects" left to go. I did finally finish mocking up the oil pan,(updated my thread) - we'll see how that works once I get it running. I'm hoping someday next year we'll be able to run both of them on the track together at TWS or MSR. -Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S15 200sx owner Posted November 18, 2007 Share Posted November 18, 2007 The arms seem fine but I haven't had them on long enough for real feedback. They allowed me to set up the ideal geometry so in that sense they work great. I wish the rear setup was as slick (the whole billet thing) as the front. the spring rates are 275 f, 250 r. works great with the struts. The sway bars are 19mm. It's a relatively light car so no need for overkill. The brakes are the arizona Z 12" 4 piston rears and 13.3" six piston fronts. I did some custom work to make give the red "datsun" look. And are you happy with the brakes? Performance etc? If you had to do it again would you go with those, i am considering getting the kit you have thats all. Thanks for the other info too, very helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted November 19, 2007 Share Posted November 19, 2007 Let me know when you two are at the track and I will bring mine up there as well....I have always wanted to get up there to TWS after all it is just down the road Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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