Careless Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 hey BJ, your setup looks a lot like my dads basement. LOL. drafting tables are awesome for fine soldering, as they have a swing-arm magnifying lense that makes soldering surface mount resistors and such using a mini handy-vice (those are the coolest!) very easy. Of course, you could also get magnifying head gear, which I own too. So that small heavy-guage jumper you made, I'm guessing you crimped it first, then heat shrunk it the ends, then snake-skinned it, and then doubly-ply heat shrunk the ends again to prevent unfurling or fraying of the snake-skin sheath? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 I think the key is to properly encase and support soldered connections. yep, crimped or not, part of the wiring process is not only making the connection, but supporting it, tugging on it to make double-sure, and putting zip ties and strain reliefs in the proper areas. It looks like you have all the right tools to do the job, your wiring looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 Yes... That is glue coated heatshrink for underground high voltage splices. It really holds onto the snakeskin. The lugs take a lot of effort to make. But they are worth it considering the cost of having a large assortment on hand. The wires are a many step process. 1. I use cable cutters with curved shears to make neat cuts without deforming the wire. 2. I very carefully strip the jacket without nicking the copper wires. 3. The ends are fit using a vice and forcing the wire deep into the lug. 4. I crimp the lugs around the wire 5. I solder using the 200W iron. I only work the hole-end of the lug. 6. I clean the flux residue off the ends and run them on the wire brush wheel. 7. I apply a high quality polyolefin heatshrink tubing. 8. I slip on the snakeskin and trim to fit. 9. I use glue coated heavywall heatshrink to bind the snakeskin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 I should clarify, I will crimp the large guage lugs, and then flow solder into them to seal them from moisture and contaminants. The lugs I use are open on the terminal end in addition to the wire end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shift Posted February 18, 2008 Share Posted February 18, 2008 Let me suggest shrink tubing instead of electrical tape. In the long run you will be greatful. The adhesive on the tape, after a while comes off onto the wires and makes a great mess of things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted February 18, 2008 Share Posted February 18, 2008 Was electrical tape ever mentioned? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted February 18, 2008 Share Posted February 18, 2008 *art-work. There are many steps to this type of ARTwork. Props to some awesome connections! Those look great. I'm going to have to try to make my wiring look that clean when i get around to it. This thread will be helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryb Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 OK help me out...what is crystalization of copper..please define, Secondly...I have soldering many wires and have never had a problem. My main goal is to melt the solder as quickly as possible without heating up the wire too much. Am I doing something wrong? Thirdly...when I use the weathertight connectors I crimp and put a light solder on the crimp. Again have not had a problem. Do you have concerns with this? And lastly....the only time I have found dislocated weathertight connectors is when I have messed up the unstall...I screwed up!.... Or put female pins in both ends... They may not be as good as AMP but lets get real...they are not poor quality! They are a realistic and affordable substitute that performs very well in 30+ year old Zs This thread is talking about replacing a few connectors not redoing the entire car with new wire and fresh connectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 OK help me out...what is crystalization of copper..please define,[/define] It has to do with the lead/tin and copper mixing at a heat level in which it develops a very hard, failure-prone joint due to the reaction of the heat melting the copper to a point where solder leaks into the pores of the heated copper surface. if you want to make a really nice joint you should tin your wires. that is, to heat them up for about 5 to 7 seconds on a 18 guage wire with a 25 watt iron, and feed solder in between the tip and the exposed wire on ONE side only. Then do that on the other side (other wire) of the connection. Then put them close together, and heat them up once more, and the solder will flow enough so that it combines the two wires, and while malleable make sure to keep the wires together as close as possible. This also prevents the need to twist wires, and makes DESOLDERING a lot easier. and it also makes the wire thinner than a bundle with solder drooped all over the twisted ends. Secondly...I have soldering many wires and have never had a problem. My main goal is to melt the solder as quickly as possible without heating up the wire too much. Am I doing something wrong? if today was "opposite day"... my answer would be DEFINITELY. Thirdly...when I use the weathertight connectors I crimp and put a light solder on the crimp. Again have not had a problem. Do you have concerns with this? It's a good measure to keep the wire from backing out. just don't over do it, or you will have problems feeding them in, or making a clean removal of the crimp if needed. Some pins are plated with 2k gold in some cases. You don't want to really heat those up too much. And lastly....the only time I have found dislocated weathertight connectors is when I have messed up the unstall...I screwed up!.... Or put female pins in both ends... They may not be as good as AMP but lets get real...they are not poor quality! They are a realistic and affordable substitute that performs very well in 30+ year old Zs This thread is talking about replacing a few connectors not redoing the entire car with new wire and fresh connectors. you're right. weatherpaks are tested and proven technology by todays standards. I like to find floor panel connector from nissans. A Nissan Stanza i junked had a 16 pin connector that was weather sealed and ran along the inside of the rocker just under the carpet. I figure if it's there, and its sealed, it would be protected against water from the winter... The pins were relatively easy to remove, and some of them were un-crimped and re-crimped carefully with a mini screwdriver, and some were soldered from a pigtail... it works very well and I wouldn't hesitate to use that on anything. It is also similar to another connector I found in the engine bay, so I'm sure its heat-resistant to a point. I went to Princess Auto's clearance section and found trailer hitch packs for 2 bucks a pop that had 4 weather pack connectors each as part of the kit, so I stripped them of their inventory. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dayz Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 This is great info, rarely talked about on the forum. Can you explain and insert pictures of butt welding wires, and/or welding a connection that goes on a sensor (on a thin wire) I don't feel like putting weatherpack connectors everywhere, I am sure a lot of us will learn from this thread. thanks guys, Dayz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted February 22, 2008 Author Share Posted February 22, 2008 There's a lot of info for sure Which is awesome. However, I find that weird that it's difficult to get good connectors. None of the local auto parts stores has some decent connectors... Most of the people at auto stores I discussed with just told me to use butt splices with works but are far from being the best solution according to this thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarcrazy Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 I've been thinking about rewiring my Z. I'm hesitant to start because I'm not very experienced at soldering. But, after reading this thread, I've decided that I'm going to learn. I'm sure I can find plenty of little projects to practice on throughout the car before I take on any large wiring tasks. The info that I've read so far is invaluable. I would like to ask if anyone knows of a few good resourses that describe proper soldering techniques. I'm the guy that always ends up with a huge blob of solder on the end of the iron and not on the wire. I have a cheap soldering iron I picked up from somewhere, but I also have a decent Weller soldering gun that was a gift I received a few years back. I don't think I have ever heated it up. I'm looking forward to trying it out. I'm sure that with a lot of patience and a little practice (plus some detailed guidance) I'll be making some nice connections in no time. By the way, who are some good suppliers of wire, connectors, and other electrical supplies. I don't have anything close by that I would trust for quality supplies. Thanks for posting so much experience and info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 You can get amp connectors from http://www.mouser.com The catalog is very cryptic, so take your time and make sure you order everything you need... pins, socket, strain relief etc... If anyone does not know how to solder, then start practicing. It is tremendously useful. IF you decide to crimp a connection, I reccommend using one of the butt splices that is insulated and filled with heat shrink/glue that makes for a weathertight seal. They are not cheap, but having a few around can be super handy if your somewhere where you don't want to heat. Evan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted March 9, 2009 Author Share Posted March 9, 2009 I'm bringing back this thread to the top Since my last post on this thread I'm changed my job. I'm now working for delphi which has a electrical division (Packard). I had the opportunity to get some connectors and tool from the prototype shop. Since the last post, I haven't taken care of the wires since everything was fine. I know it is not good Everthing is now clamped now (not soldered) very tight and sealed. Here are pictures of the plugs & connectors. the pliers are just awesome, I even use them with regular butt plugs without plastic cover. It makes very nice and tight connections I've covered with heat shrink tubing. The pliers The connector (with seals in orange and light grey) Once clamped on wire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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