niceguy678us Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 What now??? http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z79/niceguy678us/cvshaft003.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z79/niceguy678us/cvshaft002.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z79/niceguy678us/cvshaft001.jpg There are three little places where the shaft material has been mashed down to hold the bearing piece on the shaft. This is how it is fixed on both ends of the CV shaft assembly. There is no nice little circle clip to undo these with. I was thinking about gently grinding the mashed portions, but then you won't be able to lock the pieces back in place upon re-assembly. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 Have a snap ring groove machined on the shaft after grinding to get it apart, or get some other CV shafts. Not sure what your PM meant or if it was intended for me, but that's what I'd do, and I'd lean towards the latter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junglist Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 What now???http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z79/niceguy678us/cvshaft003.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z79/niceguy678us/cvshaft002.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z79/niceguy678us/cvshaft001.jpg There are three little places where the shaft material has been mashed down to hold the bearing piece on the shaft. This is how it is fixed on both ends of the CV shaft assembly. There is no nice little circle clip to undo these with. I was thinking about gently grinding the mashed portions, but then you won't be able to lock the pieces back in place upon re-assembly. Any thoughts? Mine were this way when I rebuilt them. I forced the bearing off of the shaft with a manually operated hydraulic press, then when putting them back on, my friend carefully put an even groove around the entire shaft and we then put a properly sized circle clip onto it to re-hold the bearing in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philipl Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 Mine also had no circlip i believe i used a gearpuller to remove and pressed back on with a little of some sort of loctite retaining compound to make sure it would not move..sorry this is somewhat vauge its been a little while back..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LineC Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 Just to give you guys a heads up. Rockauto has the Beck Arnely boots on wholesaler clearance. Look them up under a 1984 300zx base model. Boots are around $5 for inner and $5 for outer. Just ordered some sets of these and they have the o-ring and grease with them. As of 5 March they only had 16 remaining.... Great deal considering they are usually $27 + shipping for a set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junglist Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 Just to give you guys a heads up. Rockauto has the Beck Arnely boots on wholesaler clearance. Look them up under a 1984 300zx base model. Boots are around $5 for inner and $5 for outer. Just ordered some sets of these and they have the o-ring and grease with them. As of 5 March they only had 16 remaining.... Great deal considering they are usually $27 + shipping for a set. I saw this a few months ago and bought 2 sets! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 Does any body know if it matters how you phase the 2 tripod joints. I rebuilt a set of mine and im having a bad vibration. I also added clutches to my clsd at the same time. The vibration is so bad on the passanger side that it worked the bolts out on my axle luckily i was only going around a corner at a crawl when it finally let go. Well any help would be great thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibsys2562 Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 I was just about to do this to my CV boots, thank you very much for the walkthrough. its really thorough, i'll let you know how it works out for me. Good write-up. The forming of the metal band is great and obviously from the photos, appears to hold it tightly and evenly. That part was always the most challenging when it came to replacing the boots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 Is there a way to fix this sticky since the pictures are no longer working? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 Is there a way to fix this sticky since the pictures are no longer working? Not without the images. Looks like the photobucket album was deleted. Maybe try emailing / PM'ing the member... ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nix240z Posted June 22, 2013 Share Posted June 22, 2013 (edited) Since the pics are gone, I am posting pics of the way I did my boots. pipe cutter #3 from harbor tool $20.. go slow and dont let the pipe cutter walk on you. You might get a small grove on the axle side from the cutter but this will be ok. Boot band cut in half. NOTE: I used a small Dremel cutting tool to mark the exact location of the parts as they came off the shaft, so i would know the location as they go back on. My cv's did not have a c-clip, the end was just pressed on. I used a 6" 3 jaw gear puller to remove the end install the new boots and reinstall the parts the same way as they came off. I used a 28mm socket to tap the end back on. On the shaft there is three places that the shaft was mashed down to hold the end in place. I just used a small chisel and mashed them back further after end was installed. Pack boots with grease and put the Boot end back on. At this point I installed a 4 1/2" worm clamp around the metal boot. This helps protect the metal as you start hammering the lip over and also keeps the band from wanting to bow out. I also put electrical tape around the boot to also protect the metal while tapping the lip over. At this point the lip is almost all the way around after tapping it. Small light taps will get the job done. At this point I used some aluminum stock I had to tap the lip the rest of the way down. I did so tapping and moving along the ridge. You could use a socket and get the same result. completed boots... Edited June 23, 2013 by nix240z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davek Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 good job nix 240Z Looking at the usual auto parts stores. I see all clamp on boots. They are pretty vauge about inner /outer boots. They seems to offer one that is twice the price. I assume the inner but the show a clamp included. Where did you get your boots. And how did you remove the inner boots. Careful with a cutoff wheel?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davek Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 never mind got'em at partsgeek -- $72 for both axles. The inner is short as shown on one of these build threads but doen't look like a big deal. No O ring included. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 I think this article answers the phasing question: http://thinkfastengineering.com/2012/10/tripod-clocking/ But I have a question about the "end-cap". My boots came with a replacement for this cap that fits over the input shaft. But I'm hesitant to try to remove the old one under the "if it ain't broke" principle and also bc it is not obvious how to remove the old one or how to re-install the new one. Anyone have insight? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 Ok. Answered my own question. This is NOT a new end cap. Rather, the boot came apart (before I got it) and this is the part that keeps the boot in place. I tried putting it back together with no luck. Have to return it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 Normally I think its rather ridiculous when someone answers a question from a post that is many years old. Not this time. I actually just started working on getting my car back on the road this weekend and this is one thing i was wanting to get resolved as i still had a slight vibration. I clocked the left one at 60deg and it helped. Now i need to do the other one. Thank you for finally providing a definitive answer. I think this article answers the phasing question: http://thinkfastengineering.com/2012/10/tripod-clocking/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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