MazterDizazter Posted February 28, 2008 Share Posted February 28, 2008 I'm trying to decide which lightweight flywheel to choose for my L28ET. I did some searching, and came up with the following brands: SPEC, Clutch Masters, RPS, and Fidanza. Does anyone have any of these flywheels installed who can give me some feedback on their products? I have a Fidanza flywheel in my MR2 and I really like it but it's not the same engine or layout. Right now I am leaning towards them strictly based on price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsun40146 Posted February 28, 2008 Share Posted February 28, 2008 If you want cheap I would get your stock one turned down, you could expect very similar gains if its done correctly. It would also be about 1/3 of the cost. IE if your "namebrand" one costs 300, I could send one out and have it machined for 65 with shipping to califonia. I had mine done there, it was worth it I think it weights around 13-14 pounds now. The machine shop that did the work was called griffen's machine shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MazterDizazter Posted February 28, 2008 Author Share Posted February 28, 2008 Ok, there's also that, and I found the very expensive Kameari flywheels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted February 28, 2008 Share Posted February 28, 2008 ultrarev.com has some of the best prices I could find on flywheels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted February 28, 2008 Share Posted February 28, 2008 I'd get whichever is lightest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mayolives Posted February 28, 2008 Share Posted February 28, 2008 I have been using Fidanza flywheels for a few years. Both are installed in high HP, high reving z cars and have experienced no problemos whatsoever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MazterDizazter Posted March 1, 2008 Author Share Posted March 1, 2008 Oh, I forgot to mention, I have an L26 flywheel, so I don't know if that's even compatible with the L28ET that I'll be swapping in....therefore lightening my stock flywheel may not be an option unless I get an L28ET flywheel and lighten it which is probably cheapest of all oh no run-on sentence make it stop! I think I'm gonna go for the Fidanza. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 A few years ago when all lightweight flywheels were in $450 range I had my stock L28 turned down. Turns out there are 2 steps. First the machinist starts with a lathe to remove material. This means he can only take it off where the "extra" is continuous and nothing (such as a threaded hole or dowel) is in the way. (Visualize the flywheel on the lathe with a cutting tool taking material off and I think you'll get the picture.) I had him do that and he got my weight down to around 16 lbs. That cost around $100 IIRC. (The only shop I could find that would still do this work in Colorado was in Co. Springs, so probably not the cheapest.) The next step would be to use a mill and remove additional material. He felt he might get another 1 -3 lbs removed but no more without leaving it too weak, and the milling time was more expensive on a per lb removed basis. So I stopped there. I still had to get it balanced which meant a different shop for about $30 IIRC. In the end, I was happy with how it turned out. If I was to do it today, I'd just buy the Fidanza here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fidanza-flywheel-Nissan-240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-Pickup_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33732QQihZ021QQitemZ310027563006QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW It's a bit more, but most of the material removed from mine came from the around the middle, but not at the outer edge. Because of the dowels and threaded holes, the lathe couldn't take much off at the outer radius of the flywheel. (That's why you'd need to use the mill.) Keep in mind that what matters most is NOT the total weight of the flywheel, but its rotational inertia. The same amount of weight at the outer edge will have more rotational inertia than if it's closer to the center. The Fidanze not only weighs less, but I'm sure has much less weight at the outer edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sticky280zx Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 im in the same situation just about.....i ordered a certerforce dual friction clutch (225mm) and im wanting to get a flywheel....ive heard the lightweights are great but do they really do that much on driving/performance? like will i notice an increase in torque or just while free revving? and will the 240mm (only ones out there) work with the 225mm certerforce clutch i have? thanks -jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MazterDizazter Posted March 13, 2008 Author Share Posted March 13, 2008 Well I ended up buying the Fidanza, got it for $300 shipped from a board member. I now need a clutch....leaning towards the Clutch Masters stage 3 or 4 but I'm interested in the Centerforce dual friction...does that come in 240mm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sticky280zx Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 according to the guy you bought the flywheel from...ffmark or whatnot you should be able to get the 225 dual friction and it will work....thats what im waiting on is the flywheel as i already have the clutch so order the 225 dual friction and let us know how they work and if your happy....cause not many ppl have written about the combo theyre using and how they like it thanks- jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 I know they are not super light, but the Maxima flywheel will save you about 4lbs over a stock L28 flywheel. They weight between 17 and 18lbs, as compared to 24lbs for the L28 flywheel. I believe they have a Y70 designation on the back. I have one in one my street cars, and the race car. A noticable improvement for cheap money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 has anyone tried using the KA24 flywheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TONY C Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Your L26 flywheel will work fine. I have had several different lightweight flywheels over the years. Fidenza says theirs is best because you can get a new center part for it when it's worn out. HKS is a repackaged Nismo unit. All are lighter than stock at the sacrafice of durableity. The problem area on all the after market flywheels is the starter ring. The ring is not replacable. So... When they start to give up. And They Do! Doesn't matter how light they are. Unless you Like to push start your car. Have your stocker cut down. I have a 10lb stocker with a Nismo psi plate and ceramic 3 puck disc behind my stroked and turbod [21psi] L28et. Works great and cost me $60. My HKS lasted 2 years till the starter ate it . $450 Wasted! just my $.02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 I had thought, and I could be wrong here, that Nissan Motorsports sold Tilton flywheels back in the day. Tilton doesn't make L series flywheels anymore, but they are very similar to the Fidanza units, aluminum with the steel friction surface. The HKS issue with the broken teeth is something I have seen before, but never put two and two together. It would be good to get some more feedback as to whether or not this is a common problem. That would be a pretty good reason to avoid that flywheel. Lightening a stock flywheel to 10 lbs is dangerous in my opinion, and you won't find many machinists that will do it for you. I think the best solution in terms of making the engine rev faster with a stock pressure plate is the aluminum flywheel because there is less mass out at the edge of the flywheel where it makes the most difference. The HKS is an iron flywheel, where the aluminum ones use a steel toothed ring pressed on for the starter to engage, so I think they're probably more durable than the HKS unit. If you want to go all the way a flex plate multiple disk clutch setup gets you the least inertia and fastest rev up/down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 I bought a steel flywheel that looks a lot like the Cusco branded ones, but it was made in Japan by some no-name company from JPS Trading Co. on eBay. It weighs 11.5 lbs, and is a solid piece. I can provide pictures. It's for an RB20DET but generally, that means any nissan 240mm clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrEaM Posted March 18, 2008 Share Posted March 18, 2008 okay so i'm also in need of a decent flywheel, and right now i have a stock 280zxt clutch in my garage but NOBODY down here in the panhandle has a turbo flywheel so i'm looking at the EBAY UNIT but i'm not sure if the fidanza they sell is worth a damn.. i mean have any of you guys tried it out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TONY C Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 I flogg the absolute P.P. out of my car and I worried about it being a problem at first. It may brake tomorrow? But a year now and no issues. It is actually closer to 11lbs. When I had it done I took my HKS to my machinist and told him to cut it the same. He said he had it down to 15lbs in no tme. So even if you stopped at that. $60-$100 is still the best bang for the buck. Don't do it because I have. But.. unless you road race your car. You would be hard pressed to abuse it as much as I do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 I flogg the absolute P.P. out of my car and I worried about it being a problem at first. It may brake tomorrow? But a year now and no issues. The worry I have is what will happen if it does explode. Generally takes out brake AND fuel lines, as they tend to send shrapnel in all directions radially out from the crankshaft. If you have your motor set back it might get into your feet as well. Stock engine placement is far enough ahead that this shouldn't be too much of a problem. If you haven't seen it before: It is actually closer to 11lbs. When I had it done I took my HKS to my machinist and told him to cut it the same. He said he had it down to 15lbs in no tme. So even if you stopped at that. $60-$100 is still the best bang for the buck. The HKS flywheel is 10 lbs right out of the box. I've only ever heard of machinists turning cast iron flywheels down to about 16 lbs or so. Beyond that I've been told is unsafe. I'm not a machinist' date=' so I'm relying on the expertise of several machinists who I've discussed it with. But.. unless you road race your car. You would be hard pressed to abuse it as much as I do. I think a drag racer puts a heck of a lot of abuse on a flywheel. Much more than a road racer would do in my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 I had my flywheel turned on a lathe down to 16.5 lbs (from 23 lbs stock), but in order to take any more off the machinist was going to have to switch to a mill (taking material off between the dowels and threaded holes). He thought he might be able to take off as much as another 2-3 lbs, but he didn't like the idea much as he felt it would become too weak. I figured he was turning down additional money for what would otherwise be a simple job and hence I listened to his advice. For me, I would not use a steel flywheel that had been reduced to 11 lbs. That's quite different compared to using one that is aluminum with a steel surface and was designed to be 11 lb from the start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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