s130, z31, or z32 diff and cv's?

[Guest figone]

Hello all-

New to the forum, but I'm working on an interesting S130 swap (details later) and am trying to figure out which diff and cv's to use. There's a 2+2 turbo with cv's and an r200 which I know would bolt up pretty easily. What kind of mods would be needed to use the stronger cv's and the R200 out of a z31? How about an R230 from a Z32TT? Could I also use the companion flanges to get 5 lugs from either one? All the FAQ's deal with the S30 stuff, but don't go into much detail about the S130.

Thanks,

Cody

[xenonxiii]

The Z32 diff is a short nose and is not compatable.

 

you can use the z31 1984-1989 300zx R200 diff's as these are the long nose.

[roger.svoboda]

you need the half shafts off a 280zx tho cause the z31 are longer (I think). They only pop out of the diffy so easy to change but you will need the matching flanges as the bolt pattern on the cv's is different than the universal joint half shaft. also you might have driveshaft problems. I did when I swapped out the slushbox on an 81 turbo for a 5 speed n/a tranny. input output splines were not the same. Friend of mine thought he could just put a z31 rear assembly in his 280 but he never got to it cause he blew engine parts all over the pavement. But pretty much all the parts swap out. the 84, 85 z31 are probably closer to the 280 I've noticed. they used a lot of the same stuff. I believe the axles are the same so you could probably just put 5 lug axles in her.

[ben280zx]

This should help http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114798

[Guest figone]

Thanks for the replies...I had read the FAQ already, but wasn't sure how much of the info was relevant to the S130...looks like an r200 from a z31 with the half-shafts is the best bet for strength without major modifications, then. Is the FAQ info about making sure it's a turbo relevant to this swap?

[roger.svoboda]

R200 is an R200 doesn't matter what it came out of. 240sx, truck, 280zx or z31. Only thing is what ratio you want. turbo got nothing to do with it. when I swapped out the 81 turbo I actually put an R180 in it cause I found one off a 2+2 with cv joints and didn't have to modify or find the right drive shaft parts. Never had a problem. Course if you build a 400 hp monster you might want the r200.

[xenonxiii]

R200 is an R200 doesn't matter what it came out of. 240sx, truck, 280zx or z31.

 

 

Actually the carrier is the same but there are other differences.

 

 

the one on the left came out of a Z32 and on the right a Z31. Note the different housings.

[260DET]

Why not look at a complete Z31 turbo rear end swap? Five stud wheels, bigger brakes, better suspension design........... All you have to do is work out how to fit it and if the track will be OK for what you are doing.

[m1ghtymaxXx]

Why not look at a complete Z31 turbo rear end swap? Five stud wheels, bigger brakes, better suspension design........... All you have to do is work out how to fit it and if the track will be OK for what you are doing.

 

I didn't think z31 suspension was better than s130. Same basic design but without coil over struts.

[linchpin360]

I didn't think z31 suspension was better than s130. Same basic design but without coil over struts.

 

Can you swap the z31s entire rear subframe and what not into an s130 without serious mods?

[rdelat]

 

z31 clsd 280zx turbo axles and companion flanges

[rdelat]

z31diff clsd

[Gollum]

Can you swap the z31s entire rear subframe and what not into an s130 without serious mods?

 

I don't think so, but I can't say I've measured.

 

I perfer the S130 rear suspension anyways. I just don't like the packaging of the seperate spring/strut on the Z31.

 

Main downside to the S130 is the control arm design doesn't allow for maximized tire usage. Me and Rudypoochris just fit the group by 9.5 wide rims on one of my S130 cars and the tire actually FIT under the stock wheel well with stock suspension. It stuck out a tad, but it tucked in nicely with travel. With the 9 inch wide I have no doubt it'd fit no problem.

 

But... There was about 2+ inches of wasted space inwards. It was a good fist width away from the strut and spring peach, but it was a mere knuckle width away from the control arm. If you could eliminate that issue with custom control arms you could easily fit a 275 wide tire under the stock wheel well, maybe even 295 with it looking a pinch outside the fender, but with sufficient clearence when it tucks in under travel.

 

And with stiff enough shocks (read: springs AND struts) to limit travel the negative characteristics of trailing arm is limited. That just means a rough street ride. With adjustable struts a compromise can be found though.

[260DET]

I didn't think z31 suspension was better than s130. Same basic design but without coil over struts.

 

Have heard that Nissan changed the semi trailing arm sweep angle, resulting in less camber change for the same amount of movement. Have not checked this myself though but if its so its a plus for a performance application.

[Gollum]

The thing is though, is that if we're talking about racing on a smooth road racing course, then the camber and toe change doesn't matter much, here's why.

 

Where it's going to kill you the most (camber and tow changes) is on sweeping turns that cause the car to roll. When you're driving on a smooth surface like say, laguna seca, you can run a super high spring rate with a decent size roll bar and due to the very limited amount of travel the camber and toe should maintain decent levels mid corner. The main place you'll feel the camber and toe changes would be under undulation, and it those wouldn't kill your lap times unless they're mid corner.

 

Now, if we're talking about the nurburgring... Sure, the Z31 suspension is probably quite a bit better.

 

EDIT: OH yea, but with setups like this driving on the street would kill you. No really. You're bum would just be a lump of goo. This is the upside to well designed suspension, that it can be made to handle well and be comfortable. Unfortunately many trailing arm designs don't have that ability.

[260DET]

When the capacity of semi trailing rear suspension is being discussed I always throw in this BMW video

and will keep doing so until people say, 'not that bloody video again!'

 

BMW did a lot of work on their semi trailing design, including changing the sweep angle, and Prodrive who prepared that particular car are not amateurs. It can be seen that there is a fair bit of suspension movement on that undulating piece of road, note also the amount of rubber laid down on some corner exits. I suspect due to a lot of toe in which as we know helps stability.

 

Anyway, enough from me, going to look at that video, again

[frank280zx]

I don't think so, but I can't say I've measured.

 

I perfer the S130 rear suspension anyways. I just don't like the packaging of the seperate spring/strut on the Z31.

 

Main downside to the S130 is the control arm design doesn't allow for maximized tire usage. Me and Rudypoochris just fit the group by 9.5 wide rims on one of my S130 cars and the tire actually FIT under the stock wheel well with stock suspension. It stuck out a tad, but it tucked in nicely with travel. With the 9 inch wide I have no doubt it'd fit no problem.

 

But... There was about 2+ inches of wasted space inwards. It was a good fist width away from the strut and spring peach, but it was a mere knuckle width away from the control arm. If you could eliminate that issue with custom control arms you could easily fit a 275 wide tire under the stock wheel well, maybe even 295 with it looking a pinch outside the fender, but with sufficient clearence when it tucks in under travel.

 

 

I run 10 J and 275s on the stuck set up , you just need the right offset.

 

and im with 260DET BMW m3's performed like a dream... with trailing arms.

also on the Nordsleiffe AKA nurbergring.. i know from experiance ...

A z31 set up is as 'bad' as a s130 a trailing arm basically is an trailing arm. but it can be made to handle as you see below!

 

 

 

[FricFrac]

I've been reading for weeks on this trying to figure it out. I'm assuming there is going to be some slight variations between vehicles but would it be reasonable to get a set of 235/40/18x8.5 on the fronts and 275/35/18x9.5 on the rear? If so what offset are we looking at? Would 18s avoid the issues with the control arm?