Jump to content
HybridZ

List your L28ET setup.


Recommended Posts

OK, timing figures.

I am running up to 38deg off boost

- 100 to 150kpa max 16deg

- 150 to 200kpa this drops linearly to 13deg

- above 200kpa it is basically 10deg

 

That sounds like a very, very conservative timing map. To give you an idea, I am running this:

 

100kpa - 36deg

120kpa - 32deg

140kpa - 27deg

160kpa - 25deg

180kpa - 23deg

200kpa - 20deg

220kpa - 17deg

250kpa - 15deg

 

Maybe something like that will work better for you?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mmm, food for thought. The guy that tuned my car was a bit uneasy about taking the timing too far. Might get a timing light on the engine to see where my base is before I go any further.

I am assuming it is set at 0 (My idle timing is 10deg in computer), but might check it.

 

One other question guys. I am assuming that when changing the timing, the A/F ratios don't change as your still putting the same amount of air and fuel in and just changing at a different time. So I should be able to up my timing without fiddling with the injector tables. Is this correct?

 

Make that two questions. If I do up the timing and go too far, what are the consequences. Is it limited to blown head gasket or can more serious damage occur?

 

Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One other question guys. I am assuming that when changing the timing, the A/F ratios don't change as your still putting the same amount of air and fuel in and just changing at a different time. So I should be able to up my timing without fiddling with the injector tables. Is this correct?
The amount of fuel required WILL change as you change timing. However, some ECUs can adjust automatically via either EGO feedback (not recommended when under boost), or by including the MAP value in the ReqFuel calculation. Megasqurit II/Extra supports this and I use it - very nice to be able to make changes like this and not have to retune the VE tables.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, timing figures.

I am running up to 38deg off boost

- 100 to 150kpa max 16deg

- 150 to 200kpa this drops linearly to 13deg

- above 200kpa it is basically 10deg

 

Wow.

 

Those are incredibly low numbers. Your EGTs must be through the roof, and your car must fall on its face when you get above 100kpa.

 

I concur with CamH. His timing numbers look much more reasonable, assuming you have decent quality fuel available.

 

You have what looks to be a very potent setup, and if the heading on the dyno graph is right, a topnotch ECU (Motec).

 

The tune, however, is horrible. Your car is so far from detonating that it is not an issue.

 

Run from that tuning shop. With all the abilities of the Mainline dyno (I have a Dynapack) and the Motec ECU, you should have been able to drive out of there with a 90%+ tune.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

CR: I have a P54 block, dished pistons, P90 head and a stock gasket. Using the Ozdat engine builder I think that puts me around 7.353:1. Also run with 98 octane (available everywhere down here).

Those are incredibly low numbers. Your EGTs must be through the roof, and your car must fall on its face when you get above 100kpa.

Not sure what the temperatures are like, but it sure doesn't feel like it falls flat on it's face.

Run from that tuning shop. With all the abilities of the Mainline dyno (I have a Dynapack) and the Motec ECU, you should have been able to drive out of there with a 90%+ tune.

I am not running from the tuner though, he is well worth his time/money, he just didn't want to find the limit of my unknown engine on the day before christmas.

 

The amount of fuel required WILL change as you change timing. However, some ECUs can adjust automatically via either EGO feedback (not recommended when under boost), or by including the MAP value in the ReqFuel calculation.

Well that sucks, I was hoping I could just up the timing when I was out at the drags next time to see what would happen. I will have to have a chat with the tuner and see if the computer will compensate.

 

I will get out today and find the base timing before I decide to go anywhere from there. Thanks for all your help guys, its nice to be able to consult with people who have similar engine packages (Not a whole lot of us with a turbo L28 down here).

 

Oh yeah, anyone able to tell me the answer to this previous question?

If I do up the timing and go too far, what are the consequences. Is it limited to blown head gasket or can more serious damage occur?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I do up the timing and go too far, what are the consequences. Is it limited to blown head gasket or can more serious damage occur?

 

Head gasket will be the first to go, but other things could break as well. To be safe, just give it a tiny bit more fuel, and up the timing. Do you have a wideband?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, update. First off, if anyone thinks this thread is getting clogged up with my garbage, I will move this conversation onto a new thread.

 

I checked my timing today. My block has 0, 10 & 20 deg marks on the block (America's passenger side) and my pulley has three marks (all line up with 0, 10 & 20 at idle) and a notch in the pulley which is further back (in the retarded region). The way I am reading it is that the middle mark is my timing mark and that sits on 10 deg at idle (which is what the computer is programmed at). I am having a hard time finding a photo of a two pulley harmonic balancer that shows the marks and the notch, but I think the notch is unrelated.

 

I do not have a wideband, although the tuner was using one (in exhaust pipe) when tuning the car. I'll give my tuner a call and see about increasing the timing. Thanks for everyones comments/suggestions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am not running from the tuner though, he is well worth his time/money, he just didn't want to find the limit of my unknown engine on the day before christmas.

 

My comment about running from that tuner is based also on the facts that you should be able to get those numbers on a STOCK L28ET at those boost levels, as well as the erroneous torque data on the dyno sheet.

 

With 320ft*lbs of torque and your gearing, you should be able to spin the tires all the way through 2nd gear and get a mighty chirp in 3rd. On the street at least. Maybe not on a prepped strip.

 

Those timing (and performance!) numbers are just not something you should end up with after dyno tuning your car. It sounds to me like he is afraid of tuning your car, for whatever reason.

 

Once you get this sorted out, you will absolutely not believe how much faster your car will be.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess I should post my (currently garaged) setup:

 

Engine: L28E (N42/N42) with turbo head bolts and oil-pump, thermostatically controlled oil-cooler.

 

Turbo: VG30ET T3 turbo (T4 compressor)

 

Intake/Exhaust: Pipercross inline-pod & cold-air intake, 2.5" I/C piping, 450x300x76 Intercooler, standard manifold, rail, Bosch 910 pump, 3/8 lines, 370cc injectors, L28E exhaust manifold, SK's J-pipe, 2.5" SS exhaust (split-dump), single muffler, no cat.

 

Other Drivetrain: 3N71B automatic, 2500rpm stall, Kevlar clutches, 6200rpm shift, 3.90:1 R180 single-spinner.

 

Boost: From memory... available before stall speed, all-in (~10psi) by 3000.

 

ECU: Haltech E6A, custom hall-effect setup, MSD6A.

 

HP: About 145rwkW (also from memory!) as measured on eddy-current dyno in 2nd

 

It pulls like a train with the auto, until it runs out of revs in top...

 

Current works: MM CV adaptors, 300ZXT 1/2-shafts, 3.90:1 R200 LSD, tailshaft loop, 'prepared' F54/P90 engine (forged, ARP etc etc), OEM turbo manifold, ported intake manifold, Ford 4.0L XR6 TB, MoTec M48 ECU, possibly bigger turbo = 400+HP at the engine, and a drivetrain to match.

 

And FWIW, I'm running timing around the 18 mark at full boost, 4500rpm on a crappy chambered N42 dished setup. But that is using 98RON with octane booster...

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think it would be benificial to have a thread of everyone who has a L28 turbo list what you have and your mods as well as when you get positive boost and how well you like it.

 

example::

 

-engine= L28ET JE pistons 8:0.1 compression

 

-turbo= t3/to4E 60trim compressorwheel, .63 turbine housing stage 3 wheel.

 

-Exhaust system

 

- How much boost you run and when it goes pos pressure to peek boost.

 

-ECU= MSNS1 v3

 

-440 CC injectors

 

-HP= if you have dyno tuned it and what type of dyno..(this will not be exact as no 1 dyno is the same)

 

 

 

What im trying to accomplish is a nice and easy thread to search and have information on different turbo setups people are using on the L28 motor.

 

Please let me know if this thread has been started before as I dont want to duplicate one..

Thanks

 

 

 

Engine: L28E

Block:N42 Stock dished pistons

Head: N42 Stock

83 ZXT car and parts

2K Ohm thermistor in place of Cyl head temp

Greddy type S BOV replacing emergency relief valve

cheap ebay manual boost controller

EGR unplugged

Vapor canister deleted

AAV unplugged

Everything else is stock

It runs out well,tire squealing fun.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I didn't hear anything indicating a backfire/missfire or pinging. Car was idling/driving nicely. I only popped the bonnet to help it cool down. The front of the head had been seeping oil for a while, so I wasn't too surprised.

 

Um... before you pull the head, you did notice that the dipstick is missing, right? :mrgreen:

 

edit: never mind - I now see it laying on the relay box in the first pic.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...