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porting can be helpful


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Porting??... Hmmm…

 

I for one am a huge advocate for porting. Heck, port work is our primary business! From Intake and exhaust ports and manifolds to coolant and oil passages and pumps. If fluid flows through it and I have access to it, it gets ported, (air falling into the category of a fluid). And Ron Tyler laughs at me whenever I port on an L-6 front cover smoothing the transitions for the coolant and the oil. :coollook: HA!

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ive always wanted to do DIY porting but I am always afraid of ruining the valve seat

Just do a valve job after you finish the port work. I think you'd have to be pretty hamfisted to screw it up so bad the seat needed replacing. If you're just doing the chamber you can put an old valve in to protect the seat.

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ive always wanted to do DIY porting but I am always afraid of ruining the valve seat

 

so do as jmort said, and do it on a spare head and fix the head up on the side with all the goodies you need.

 

porting takes time and effort, of course you'll screw something up. its the laws of mechanics... if something can go wrong, it will.

 

that's why you do practicing on spares. other than making mistakes and actually doing the work, how else would you learn? :-D

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im just curious.

 

why do people use super long shanks on their grinders and hold it a mile away? wouldn't it be easier to use a second grinder for close work and a more accurate grinder with less run-out for long-reach stuff.

 

I have a tiny grinder i bought, it is about the size of those aluminum-encased permanent markers with the chiseled tip, and I really don't see why people don't use them? I mean, I ground off some pretty hard welds in a matter of minutes. I'd imagine it can go straight through aluminum if not careful, and it would be a heck of a lot easier to work with if you ask me :-/

 

The components in these kits are designed for mounting in a die grinder having a maximum speed of 18,000-20,000 rpm and a 1/4-in. diameter collet or "chuck." Do not use an 1/8-inch collet grinder of the type used in hobby or arts and crafts work.
Why not? I bet I can even modify my 1/8th collect grinder to work with this kit rather than modify the bits and compromise the shank strength. And it would have enough power, and enough RPM to maintain a nice steady work-rate.
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im just curious.

 

why do people use super long shanks on their grinders and hold it a mile away? wouldn't it be easier to use a second grinder for close work and a more accurate grinder with less run-out for long-reach stuff.

 

I have a tiny grinder i bought, it is about the size of those aluminum-encased permanent markers with the chiseled tip, and I really don't see why people don't use them? I mean, I ground off some pretty hard welds in a matter of minutes. I'd imagine it can go straight through aluminum if not careful, and it would be a heck of a lot easier to work with if you ask me :-/

 

Why not? I bet I can even modify my 1/8th collect grinder to work with this kit rather than modify the bits and compromise the shank strength. And it would have enough power, and enough RPM to maintain a nice steady work-rate.

They use long shanks because you need them to get to the deepest part of the port. They hold them at the back because that's where the trigger is if they're air tools. I always use both hands so I can get better control and get a hand closer to the collet.

 

Forget about porting with a dremel. It might work for some of the chamber work, but it would take forever and a day to port the whole runner that way. A 1/4" air or electric die grinder is the way to go. Try it out and you'll quickly see why.

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