*New* Z project!

[Oddmanout84]

Test fitting some stuff while I mess with the last bits of sound mat and put the interior back together.

 

 

I think they look pretty nice, I just have to adjust the brackets a little then paint them.

 

Also took this as an opportunity to install the short throw shifter. Holy crap, I could keep my hand stationary and hit every gear by moving the gear lever with my pinkie (if the shift effort wasn't increased!). The throw is literally that short. Hopefully it won't be hard to find the gears I want when I'm testing this in action.

The only thing that sucks so far is that I can't use my old shift knob because of the thicker threading.

[Oddmanout84]

I'm going to have to learn how to drive my Z again. A short romp around the block shows I no longer know where my gears are.

[FlatBlack]

^ Ha.

 

After driving my Z31 for a while, I couldn't find third a couple of times in my S30.

 

The car looks really good.

[Gilli]

You could always just tap the hole in your shift knob if you really wanted too

[Oddmanout84]

You could always just tap the hole in your shift knob if you really wanted too

 

I was thinking about it, its a better bet than rethreading the shifter.

[Oddmanout84]

 

 

Been a long time since I updated. The only thing I can confirm is that this is an older picture, and MUCH more has been done to the car since. I'll make a REAL update when its finished!

[Two80z4me]

Beautiful Z! that is a great job! Ive always wanted to see what those wheels looked like in black, Im painting mine later this week after theget a sandblasting treatment. hopefully Ill have clearance, my Z is getting dropped 2.5" this week.

 

2 things:

A.Who did your paint job? dont mind me asking but how much did it run you?

B.Do you have a thread on how to switch the fuse's to the walmart schosche boxes? im electrically challenged, Im starting my electronic analysis and wiring class next semester

[rturbo 930]

Beautiful Z! that is a great job! Ive always wanted to see what those wheels looked like in black, Im painting mine later this week after theget a sandblasting treatment. hopefully Ill have clearance, my Z is getting dropped 2.5" this week.

 

2 things:

A.Who did your paint job? dont mind me asking but how much did it run you?

B.Do you have a thread on how to switch the fuse's to the walmart schosche boxes? im electrically challenged, Im starting my electronic analysis and wiring class next semester

Well, I'll answer #1 since it was answered earlier in the thread. He did the paint job, and a fine job if I may say so.

[Project Z]

I love your Z!

[Leon]

Hell yeah! Mine will also be orange, makes me want to do the paint myself. Love the black/orange combo, I've been planning to do something like that when it's time for paint. I have the same airdam and some black slotted mags. Hopefully it'll come out half as nice as yours. Again, great job.

[Oddmanout84]

With the project growing closer to completion, I'm releasing some photos. Today was a big day for accomplishment, and I'm in a good mood. I've been working on this for a couple months now, so even though my project page has been almost devoid of updates, I haven't been idle.

 

The exhaust I finished fabbing today is worlds better than the twice pipes I had hooked up to my original engine. Since I designed and welded it myself, I was able to put it exactly where I wanted it to be: as far away from the ground as possible. I don't think I could be happier with the clearance.

 

Notice how you can't see much of anything in this picture... that's a good thing...

 

As some may remember, my old exhaust hung below the frame rails and came very close to the ground as it passed under the differential. Not anymore. This is as good as it gets with a 3" pipe.

 

Yes, I went function over form on this one. That is none other than a very large HKS fartcan. I decided that more flow was important, and it perfectly matches the 3" piping leading back to it. The HKS label is hidden due to me overdoing the clocking of the muffler when I welded. I actually kinda like it that way, for now. Maybe someday I'll cut it and reweld so I can show off the label.

 

 

The motor came out of a 280z that was previously a track car that frequented Watkin's Glen and Limerock park. Mostly a stock rebuild was done to it, with Nismo piston rings and main/rod bearings that cost about $700 a set.... I wish I could remember the name of those... Other than that, stock rebuilt with about 4000 miles on the motor. A sweet find that my friend had sitting around in his garage. Stock 280zxT injectors, JSK fuel rail, stock 280z fuel pump, tiny intercooler, no BOV, and a stock Garrett turbo that hadn't seen a rebuild since the factory. Haltech E6K engine management system. Very basic, but somehow the guy was pushing 300hp and got a 1:12 lap time at Limerock, which is pretty impressive.

 

I've made a few improvements, mostly small for now, the most basic being the repaint of the entire engine.

My "signature" valve cover...

 

I also drilled each flywheel bolt and tied them all together with lockwire. Just an added precaution. I did a real crummy job, but then again its been over a yaer since I've lockwired anything.... I used to be good at it.

 

The engine bay is still a mess... I'll post pictures when its clean.

 

[Pete Sprenger]

Man, it is looking good! Your Z is going to go like stink!

 

You make me want to go out and work on my 240 (I have a complete turbo engine, tranny, and engine management system that I am going to incorporate into my 3.1L stroker motor). Instead, I have to go and do yard work. Argh! My neighbor tore out his grass and put down the fake grass that they use on professional football fields. It is actually really nice, but $$$$$!!! I wish I could afford it.

[Oddmanout84]

It goes like stink.

 

 

For mostly a stock setup, its done nothing short of surprising me. This car sounds MEAN and really scoots. Still though, I'm being conservative since I can't tune the haltech (won't interface with my laptop), my O2 gauge (or sensor) is unresponsive, and I recently had a couple issues with a valve cover oil leak on the highway which caused a fair deal of smoke. Scared the bajesus out of me. Have a new gasket for it now. Headlight covers also installed, I'll get some pics later. The engine bay is also a mess, but I'm not tucking all the wires away until I iron out all electrical issues.

 

[rturbo 930]

Wow, you've been busy. Looks good! Kind of a funny coincidence, since earlier tonight I was wondering about updates on your project.

[Oddmanout84]

Wow, you've been busy. Looks good! Kind of a funny coincidence, since earlier tonight I was wondering about updates on your project.

 

It was a secret project

 

If I ever get a video camera, I'll make something for youtube.

[Oddmanout84]

Cue one BIIIIIIG copypasta.

 

02MAR10

New stuff. Nothing reeeealy exciting, except for me. Now all the power should (in theory) make it to the wheels.

Fidanza 280zxt flywheel and 280zxt 240mm clutch from RPS. Guess I already posted the clutch image but here it is again for effect. I had removed my transmission (finally) last week only to find that the clutch would not fit my stock flywheel. Kind of a DUR moment, as I should have known the stock flywheel was for a 280z and only had a 225mm friction surface. Decided it would be stupid to just buy another stock model so I layed the green down for a Fidanza. Looks like it'll fit nicely. What amazes me most is now the clutch weighs more than my flywheel! Thank you, Flatblack280z, for that awesome post about flywheel and clutch fitment.

 

I'm a bit worried how the rest of the engine will fare. I still have trouble cold starting it, and I'm afraid that less rotational mass will reduce the momentum to a degree that will make it even harder. Also seriously considering a better harmonic damper for the front of the crank to even things out. Hopefully the $90 model from MSA will do.

 

Still in the mail are another mess of small parts and a few goodies. My clutch line is heavily dry rotted and I'm amazed it lasted this long. So I got a steel braided one. Will also be replacing the master and slave cylinders with this install as I'm anticipating the clutch being a bit heavier.

 

The transmission is one filthy *****, and I can say with as much trouble as I had removing it I'm dreading putting it back in. Next time, I'll use a floor jack. Of course, I'll be cleaning and painting it before that happens.

 

03MAR10

I had a nice MSD 6A hooked up instead of the stock 280zxt spark controller which was wired into the Haltech harness. It wouldn't throw a spark because a setting needed to be changed. Couldn't find a laptop old enough to have the serial port required so I had to find a serial-to-usb adapter. Also didn't have a windows 95/98 disc, which the Haltech software was supposed to run on. So I went on the Haltech website and found a fix for running it on XP. Even their solution won't work. I tried every version of the software, all updates. Best result I had was it loading to 50% then konking out. Very frustrating.

 

A little while ago I even considered buying a whole new E6X ECU (since it has the same pin connections), getting a base map for the engine and starting from scratch. And at least that ECU is new and meant to run on windows (E6K software is DOS based). Nope. Pin connections may be the same, but they are in a completely different order so I'd still have to make/buy a new harness. f**k.

 

I'll figure it out eventually. Right now I'm trying to find an old ass laptop with a serial port and windows 95/98. If that doesn't work then I'll know its the ECU that's bad. But for now at least it runs the current setup, and does it well.

 

Later...

I have an old toughbook laptop on the way, and it comes loaded with features such as serial ports, 32MB RAM, floppy drive, 150mHz processor, 2GB hard drive and Windows 98. This machine is too leet for USB.

 

I'm a bit furious. The transmission fill plug still refuses to come out. This is the second time I've battled with it, with no success. The previous owner rounded the hell out of it, but I don't blame him because making the grasping point a huge f**king 1/2" square is the stupidest idea ever. Last time I just removed the backup light switch and filled it from there. This time, I want everything done right so that little bastard is coming out. Blasting it with a propane torch and freezing it have no effect. Drain plug still comes out fine, because unlike its counterpart its made so you can just pop in a 1/2" drive breaker bar/wrench/anything. I think tomorrow I might just swallow my pride and take it to goddamn jiffy lube and let them have a go. The autozone here also doesn't carry Redline MT-90 which further pisses me off.

 

Similar story with the flywheel. Pressing in the alignment dowels with my vice (as stated in the instructions) isn't working at all. Some guy on HBZ said he just lightly tapped them in with a hammer. I'd like to know what kind of magic he wields. Hammer or vice, they won't go in mine, and they certainly won't go straight either. Dowels are in the freezer now for the night, I might even cook the flywheel in the oven for a few minutes to see if that will work.

 

Spending all this money lately is depressing.

 

Once in a while though, I buy something ridiculous and shiny for the car where money could have better been spent on something more useful. Today's arrival was no exception.

 

Bottom right is the useful stuff. Long needed fuel pump blockoff (the 280zxt version had a huge power steering pump mount that pressed against my intercooler piping), the stainless clutch line and an oil dipstick (out of picture) that now has a much better seal. But the top right is my favorite, the Fairlady Z emblem. I've been resisting it for a long time now, and the other day I finally gave in and added it to the cart. Its even better than I imagined. I was expecting a plastic thing like the similar "Datsun" one my car came with. No. This one is metal, and perfectly painted.

 

I'd add in a "432" emblem which would complete the look of the car, but that would be just wrong. That should only go on the Z that carried the S20 engine. Now I know some of you may be saying "Well by your logic a FairladyZ emblem shouldn't be on your car either, cause its not RHD, hypocrite!" Sue me. You can put me in the same category as those tools who put Altezza labels on their IS300s. After putting so much into this car and altering its appearance to a more japanesy tone, I can't see it as a Datsun 280z anymore. To me it is a FairladyZ. And that emblem will be on my BRE spoiler where it belongs, until some bastard pries it off with a pocket knife and steals it.

 

04MAR10

Got the plug out today at a local transmission shop. We torched it, pipe wrenched it and put candle wax down the threads. Finally we removed it with a big breaker bar while simultaneously hitting it with an air hammer. Those guys were great, and they didn't even charge me for it. I'll have to drop off a case of beer or something for them some time. New plugs ordered from Nissan, should be here Saturday.

Edited March 4, 2010 by Oddmanout84

[Meph]

you can get the e6k to interface with a XP computer by using dosbox, it sslighly tricky to set up but 15 mints you should be up and runnig

[Oddmanout84]

you can get the e6k to interface with a XP computer by using dosbox, it sslighly tricky to set up but 15 mints you should be up and runnig

 

Oh, believe me. I tried. Did everything right too. From what it looks like, Haltech just doesn't like Serial-to-USB adapters. Having an old toughbook with serial ports and windows 98 SHOULD solve the problem as that's what the ECU and software are meant to interface with. If it doesn't, maybe the ECU itself is bad.

[datsun723]

Love the new exhaust Oddmanout. I love the sound of my twice pipes but they hand so low its annoying

[Oddmanout84]

So I finally got it finished. The new flywheel is in along with the new clutch. Torqued all bolts to spec and safety wired the flywheel bolts together. After having issues with the new clutch master cylinder, I swapped the pushrod from my stock one into it and it seems to disengage just fine. Fixed a few things in the interior with the carpet, relocated the Haltech computer, put header wrap on the downpipe. By around 11 pm I had everything in and double checked, and the car on the ground. Started the car as normal, with me pumping the gas pedal slightly to get her going. Took a little longer than usual, but then it fired up. Ran VERY rough. Held the pedal to sustain idle speed until the car warmed a bit more, about half a minute. The engine is still running very rough, with a loud knocking sound. The whole motor shakes with each knock, normally when running you can't see it move at all. I can't pinpoint it in the engine by ear or using my stethoscope. Killed the engine, checked all the plugs. All are wet except #2. That plug has always been mysteriously clean compared to the others, but never caused the engine to make a knock. All plugs are firing, same with injectors. My AFR gauge is strangely not lit.

 

Shut the car off for a minute thinking maybe the Haltech ECU plug isn't seated right. Went upstairs to make a quick printout of the wiring harness so I can check the pin functions on the plug by number. In the meantime I'm panicking, trying to figure out what I could have possibly done wrong. The pictures I took clearly show that I put the friction disc on correctly. Replacing the pilot bushing was particularly tricky, the grease method didn't work so I had to use wet paper. The old bushing shattered as it came out, the new one went in without a fuss. This time when I put the tranny back in I had a floor jack to assist me but it was still a pain to line up and get my pilot shaft in the hole (har har). Used the rope method to lock up the motor when I torqued everything, but I made sure #1 was on the compression stroke before I put the rope in. Don't think I bent a valve...

 

Came back downstairs after about 10 minutes. Unplugged the ECU, made sure the pins were aligned correctly, then plugged it back in. Started the car. It fired up, and the knocking was about gone. Very weird. Revved it, observed it for a few minutes, nothing but noisy injectors as usual. The AFR gauge is actually reading something now, slightly lean, normal for idle. I had to cancel further testing to avoid waking neighbors. By then it was 1 am. I'll have to get back to it tomorrow and test it further.

 

Needless to say, I'm still a bit nervous. Bad gas? The car has only sat for a few weeks at most, can't imagine it would go bad in the lines that quick. This is all very odd.

Edited March 14, 2010 by Oddmanout84