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Still unsure about which engine swap to go


RaDeuX

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I've done a lot of research and have read about many engine swap stories, but I still don't know what to pick. I don't care if it's a Nissan, Ford, Toyota motor, I just want something that'll work for me AND my budget. Basically I'm planning on taking my future Z up on mountain passes, so I want it light enough so it can run downhill with ease, and at the same time it can compete uphill against high power AWDs.

 

Well the 240Z weighs around 2200-2300 lbs, so even 250 horses is quite a lot for its weight (or so I think). An SR20DET seems to be a good choice due to its minimal weight. However, I feel sort of uncomfortable having so much extra space under the hood (which seems like a waste...)

 

A V6 turbo would be nice, but a little pricey. The RB25DET and RB26DETT are popular choices and I've heard the RB26DETT can go up to 500-600 horses with ease, but I don't need that much power to go uphill... The 2JZ-GTE motor seems to be a popular choice as well, but the costs are just about the same as the RB26DETT (or so I've heard).

 

Finally, the ever-most popular swap is a small block Chevy. Or an LS1. Whatever, a V8 engine. While it has a lot of low-end torque, I don't think it's the best option for windy roads. Besides, I like the sound of turbos rather than the roars from muscle car engines.

 

Right now I'm considering the RB25DET, but there's the problem with boost lag around each and every corner. My friends tell me I can get rid of it by adding a new blowoff valve, but I highly doubt it's that simple. Maybe I should get a supercharged V6? If anything, I want something light, powerful, and fits under my future Z's hood just fine. I don't know, I guess I'm just overwhelmed by all the available options there are for an engine swap.

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I vote SR20DET.

 

It's definatly an intersting swap, lots of parts seem to be available, light, proven platform, would be easy to get 250+ HP out of one.

 

If you don't like all the space, get a HUGE turbo and put it between the rad and engine, or shorten the chassis. :lol:

 

I know at least one person has laid the rad back and place the IC above it, in a sort of V shape.

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Do a search...sorry but this topic has been beaten to death.

 

Im partial to the RB...its a NISSAN. The V8 are not much heavier.

So I guess V6 engines are pretty heavy themselves. But yeah, I've done searches and all but they ask about engine swaps and not really the meaning behind WHY they want that particular engine...

 

so whats your budget?

My budget is... as least as possible.

 

I vote SR20DET.

 

I know at least one person has laid the rad back and place the IC above it, in a sort of V shape.

Yeah I'm definitely down for a lightweight engine. Problem is, I hear it becomes too light on the front and create understeer on high speed corners. I think the problem can be fixed if I added another turbo along with a bigger intercooler/radiator...

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If you want lean stay with a L6 in the form of a ZX turbo...just like six-shooter did. I dont want to speak for him but ... :) I would say he hasnt spent too much money and the performance is pretty damn good!

 

All your other options are not lean!

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If you want lean stay with a L6 in the form of a ZX turbo...just like six-shooter did. I dont want to speak for him but ... :) I would say he hasnt spent too much money and the performance is pretty damn good!

 

All your other options are not lean!

 

Hehe, Thanks! :mrgreen:

 

Yeah I'd have to tally it all up, but I think I'm $1500ish into the conversion. I'm currently only running 4 to 5 PSIG seems to creep to 5 PSIG more often than not lately. :lol: At this level just about everyone that has sat in the passenger seat or been in a quick car where I've been able to keep up or pull on has been impressed. I happy with it, but the car is starting to feel slow again, my speedo says otherwise. 0-60 is fast, too fast, yet it's still not fast enough. :lol: I plan to turn up the boost more once I get the intercooler made and installed. for now I'm just going to tune at the boost level I'm currently running.

 

I only turbocharged the L28 that's in my 240, because it's something to play with for now, until I get the V6 that I eventually plan to run built and installed, along with the chassis to support the planned power level. Now I'm glad I turbocharged the L28, it's been fun and I learned quite a bit about the L-series in the process, more than I wanted to know actually. :lol:

 

Don't rule out the turbo L-series. ;)

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Hmm, an L28ET... I'm a little opposed to it since it's like a 30 year old engine. In my mind a newer engine gives better performance, since I believe fuel injection is better than an engine that uses carburetors. To be honest, I have little knowledge of older engines but I know that older engines tend to have less volumetric efficiency due to their design. Unless someone proves me wrong or can persuade me that an L28ET could perform just as well as an SR20DET or RB25DET, it's probably not going to be on my wanted list. Is an L28ET all cast iron, or is it all aluminum? If it's the latter, can I change, say the engine block or something to an aluminum one?

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The L28 was always EFI, be it rudementary EFI, but EFI none the less.

 

The L-series from inception (AFAIK) to demise was cast iron block, with aluminium head.

 

Volumetric efficiency is a buzz term that gets thrown around and only very few people truely understand it. Don't rule out an "old tech" engine, just because it's old. So far it gets better milage than my 1998 Malibu, by a LONG shot. The Malibu has a 3.1L V6, so not much difference in displacement, both have 2 valves per cylinder, and while the GM 60 degree v6 is one of my favorite engines, I'm VERY impressed with this 30ish year old L28 I have in my 240 right now.

 

Myself I prefer a cast iron block, for reasons that I don't have time to explain right now, but just start looking around on the interweeb about the down falls of aluminium blocks, and compare it to the benefits and the cast iron block looks to be prefered for anything more than a 10 second or less jaunt down the drag strip.

 

I'm using EFI on my engine, which as it came to me was carburated. using some Weber downdrafts. I'm using GM EFI to run it and it runs it well, inexpensive and once you get the hang of it easy to tune.

 

"Performance" and comparing it to other engines can be a tricky thing, there's more to performance than just peak HP and torque. There's also longevity, reliability, and a whole slew of other factors that can change the overall "performance" rating of an engine.

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Alright, so the L28ET uses fuel injection... For a 2.8L it only puts out 180 horses, whereas a smaller/lighter SR20DET could push 250 horses. I don't think the L28ET is the engine for me...

 

I hate this mentality that seems more and more common nowadays that older engine designs cant make good power. The L28ET could push 250 horses too, for way cheaper than you could even swap in an SR20. Not to mention, a 250 horse L28ET will make bags more torque than a 250 horse SR20. If you want to race uphill, torque is very important.

 

Not to take anything away from an SR20 or any other modern engine, of course, they all have their pros and cons, just dont knock the L28 till you know alittle bit about it is all.

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I can tell you that if low cost is what you are after then IMO an LSX isn't anywhere in your realm of possibilities. My LS1 was anything but 'cheap' or 'budget' in the end. Granted I did everything as well as I could, I'm sure you could save a few bucks but no where near $1500 or $2500 even.

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RaDeux,

First off, you are making an awful lot of assumptions thus creating myths. Lets get your theories and assumptions straightened out first so that you can make and educated decision, not just a blind mythical choice.

 

Secondly, you are doing an awful lot of day dreaming about engine conversion that DO and WILL cost considerably more than you paid for the car originally! Evaluate your financial situation, determine how much money you can contribute to such a swap. Also, when determining cost of a conversions, once that cost is totaled, all belts, hoses, etc accounted for, then double that figure cause it WILL cost twice+ what your think it will, GAURUNTEED! Trust me on this. I and several others on here have converted more than a few Z cars to various power plants, and learned this first hand!

 

 

So I guess V6 engines are pretty heavy themselves. But yeah' date=' I've done searches and all but they ask about engine swaps and not really the meaning behind WHY they want that particular engine...

[/quote']

 

Which V-6 are talking about? The ‘90+ VG30DE is somewhat heavy, compared to the ’84-‘?? VG30E V-6. THE GM 3.1-3.4 60 degree V-6 is compact and light weight as is the early Nissan VG30E V-6.

 

Finally, the ever-most popular swap is a small block Chevy. Or an LS1. Whatever, a V8 engine. While it has a lot of low-end torque, I don't think it's the best option for windy roads. Besides, I like the sound of turbos rather than the roars from muscle car engines.

….

 

I totally sympathize with you regarding the domestic V-8 exhaust note. This is my only personal gripe with the V-8 conversion. With that said, where in the heck did you come up with a SBC not good for a corner carving Z car? A traditional SBC with aluminum heads aluminum water pump, 5 speed and light flywheel and gear-reduction starter, weighs LESS than the L-28 and 5 speed it replaces AND the cars CG will be LOWER, AND the CG generally moves rearward, typically 1-2% rearward using the JTR mounting position! An example of this is my ’75 280-Z, with a 350 SBC and 5 speed, iron heads, iron water pump, only gained 120 lbs over all after swapping out the L-28. Approx 80 of those lbs were gained on the rear tires! This was an autocross car, (corner carver, and daily driver). The N/A L-28 went from 0-60 MPH in 5.7 seconds, 1/4 mile in 14.4 seconds @ 97 MPH. SBC conversion did 0-60 MPH in 4.2 seconds, and the 1/4 mile in 12.3 @ 113 MPH. That car was still very docile, a few members here have driven that car. My wife drove it regularly.

 

Hmm' date=' an L28ET... I'm a little opposed to it since it's like a 30 year old engine. In my mind a newer engine gives better performance, since I believe fuel injection is better than an engine that uses carburetors. To be honest, I have little knowledge of older engines but I know that older engines tend to have less volumetric efficiency due to their design. Unless someone proves me wrong or can persuade me that an L28ET could perform just as well as an SR20DET or RB25DET, it's probably not going to be on my wanted list. Is an L28ET all cast iron, or is it all aluminum? If it's the latter, can I change, say the engine block or something to an aluminum one?

 

[/quote']

 

 

Age and EFI have already been covered, thank you guys.

Aluminum, Iron, Titanium, Unobtanium,?!?! If the car is light weight, produces the power you want, and carves corners, who gives a flyin rip about the material the engine is made of? If you choose an engine based solely on the material it is made from and not for its performance attributes, you will NOT be satisfied, unless your end goal is have an all aluminum Z car, for whatever reason.

 

 

Alright' date=' so the L28ET uses fuel injection... For a 2.8L it only puts out 180 horses, whereas a smaller/lighter SR20DET could push 250 horses. I don't think the L28ET is the engine for me...

[/quote']

 

Yes, the STOCK L-28ET produces a measly 185 HP. members have been able to coax over 200 HP from the NON turbo L-28 using the stock cam! Members L-28ET conversions on this forum produce well over 500 HP!?!?! Dude, you are undertaking an engine conversion!!! Repeat after me!!!! “The rules of stock HP ratings are now out the window when doing an engine swap!!!

 

 

… I've heard the RB26DETT can go up to 500-600 horses with ease' date=' [b']but I don't need that much power[/b] to go uphill... The blah blah blah….

 

Now lets get one more thing straight before you go off on a another mythical dream adventure. All of the engines proposed in this thread have all been proven to produce beyond 500-600, which is more than you want any how. So ALL of them can fill your power needs. ALL of those engine have been swapped into Z cars on this forum in varying degrees of performance and cosmetic appeal, by members offering you advice.

 

Keep this in mind. "A persons knowledge on a subject is only as good as their experience in that subject". Your “experience” on the topic of engine swapping, as you stated, is NIL! Those posting trying to offer help, DO have experience on this topic. Stop trusting your own judgment and stop making up misinformation such as V-8’s aren’t good corner carvers, (you can’t possibly know such things till you’ve done it), and trust what the members are trying tell you regarding engine swaps. They have actually traveled down this road, some more than once.

 

 

Another big issue here, (other than misconceived ideas), is your budget…

 

...

My budget is... as least as possible...

 

If your budget isn’t at least $10,000, (I am NOT kidding or joking here, at minimum, you’ll need $10,000), then your ONLY options for a significant improvement in performance over the stock N/A L-28 is a traditional SBC swap or turbo the L-28. If you can’t come up with at least $5000, then a stock N/A Z car is your car… Now of course, your ability and resourcefulness to scrounge will alter that budget. Everything is compromise.

 

 

1) Set your budget!

2) Then ask what might deliver the performance goals you want within your established budget, and we'll help.

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