post me some questions

[rsicard]

Tomcraft: Use the stock Z rear brakes. See John Coffey's recommendations on brakes. He says keep the stock rear brakes. It is the front brakes that matter the most.

[tomcraft]

which rear axle are you using and wanting to convert to disc brakes?

Ill look thru my notes if its an American made rear, if its the datsun rear diff, Im sorry,I have usually discarded those during the conversion process so I don,t have any info

EXAMPLE 9" FORD

DANA 60

CHEVY 12 BOLTS

its a rear from a 300 z twin turbo i think ill stick with the drum until i change the rear .my mechanic is looking for the 9in. ford if we can get a good price maybe i can talk the wife into disks with a stubbed rear so woild love that info.thanks

[tomcraft]

Tomcraft: Use the stock Z rear brakes. See John Coffey's recommendations on brakes. He says keep the stock rear brakes. It is the front brakes that matter the most.

thanks good point

[rsicard]

Grumpyvette: I have purchase a set of 818-16 CompCams Solid Roller Lifters. There are two oil holes in the lifter. One is for the roller bearings on the roller shaft and the other is to route oil to the pushrod. Please look at CompCams page 242 at the Endurex lifters which part number 818-16 is, and note the upper oil hole is Perpendicular to the Oil Gallery and does not appear to have a path for oil to get to it and to the pushrods. Go to Isky Cams Web Site and look at the Red Zone solid roller lifters on the home page under featured products and note the same oil hole with a black spot between it and the lower oil bypass portion of the lifter. That looks to be a milled or ground out groove for oil to get to the upper lifter oil hole and then to the pushrod.

 

Please study this carefully and see if you can come up with a logical path for the oil to get to the lifter upper oil hole. Called CompCams, asked the question and got A LOT OF SILENCE.

[grumpyvette]

 

 

 

 

standard comp endurex roller lifter

 

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=823-1&Category_Code=

 

the comp tech guys have consistently made me crazy over the years, (not knowing some answers or knowing their product line)the oil hole is low enough to allow oil to feed the push rod on the cams base circle, if you measure the distance the oil hole is from the roller wheel surface, on the cam youll see the distances are slightly different between the brands, then measure a lifter bore and that oil passage to the cams base circle youll see it gets oil on the base circle. but yes I think the isky design is superior, but the comp lifters should work ok.

http://www.iskycams.com/pdf/5-ISKYCatalog2009f_01Master%20Catalog2004%20%28Page%2024%29.pdf

Edited September 23, 2009 by grumpyvette

[rsicard]

Grumpyvette: Just went out to the SBC Block and measured several dimensions. This is a later model factory roller block. From the top of the lifter boss to the base circle of the cam (LT-4 Hot Cam) is 2.375. The base circle measures 1.187"/2 = .5935". 2.375" (top of lifter boss to base circle) + .5935 (Radius of base circle) = 2.9685". Top of lifter boss to top of Oil Galley = .906". Top of lifter boss to bottom of Oil Galley = 1.406". Oil Galley = 1.405 - .906 = .5". 2.9685 - .5935 (base circle Radius) = 2.375". 2.375 - 1.406 (Bottom of Oil Galley to Top of Lifter Boss) = .969" which is from base circle of cam to bottom of Oil Galley. Then .969" + .5 (for Galley Dia) = 1.469 base circle to top of Oil Galley. CompCams 818 solid roller lifter center of top oil hole to push rod is 1 15/32 which is 1.468.

 

So when the 818 solid roller lifter is on the base circle. OIL will reach the oil hole in the lifter for the push rod. This Oil hole in the lifter is 3/32 in diameter. Now I am satisfied that Oil will get to the pushrods!

[grumpyvette]

see dial indicators DO HAVE USES!!!

 

always glad to help!

 

 

 

BTW

http://www.compcams.com/Products/335-353.PDF

 

I usually groove my lifter bores slightly to allow the oil to flow/spray just a bit more flow volume to the lifter base/cam lobe and theres no reason you can,t do something similar to the lifter bore wall above the oil passage for about .200" to allow oil to feed the lifter in greater volume , or to bevel the oil feed hole slightly in the lifter body if its helps in your application

CAREFULLY verifying measurements, like you did rather than trusting in luck,and doing little mods like that, if well thought thru, and carefully done are the difference between building engines, correctly for durability, and just assembling components, ID bet 80% of the guys assembling engines NEVER bother to check things like that you just did and as a result they will have (UN-EXPLAINED) problems YOU will have avoided/prevented

Edited September 23, 2009 by grumpyvette

[Phantom Z]

Ok I got some questions for you. I have a gold 72 240z and im having some trouble starting it up. I bought new ignition coil, new spark plugs, new distributor cap, and bought a new battery for it too. Me and my father tried most of wat we thought would start it but it tends to not work. somedays it would start when me and my dad installed the new ignition coil but now a days the ignition wont even fire all you smell is gasoline. i was thinking maybe the carbs were bad because i have triple weber carbs on my 240z. could that be a problem? if so or if you have any other ways of helping me revive my 240z please give me some replies and ways i can possibly do to get my car back on the road. thanks.

[grumpyvette]

ok step one call me (you have a PM) because theres a great deal that needs to be quickly verified

 

IGNITION TIMING

FUEL PRESSURE

PLUG GAP

IGNITION WIRE RESISTANCE

FIRING ORDER

FLOAT LEVELS

COMPRESSION

AIR FILTERS

BATTERY VOLTAGE

COIL POLARITY

READING THE PLUGS

CAM TIMING

VALVE ADJUSTMENT

OIL PRESSURE

VACUME LEAKS

and more

[deja]

I went through this when I swapped my 280Z chassis harness for the Camaro harness. The #14 fuse is my Camaro fuse block just make sure yours is a switched fuse. One thing to make sure of is that you have the ground going to the wiper switch. In the Z there is a wire that jumps ground from the light switch.

 

 

 

I have a "77 280Z we put a 350 in and are having trouble figuring out the wiring of the wiper motor. I have numerous diagrams but none tell me what color wire does what function for the motor, intermittent amp and so forth. I am using a Painless 18 circuit wiring harness #10202. Some of my frustrations are with the fact that the wire colors going into the 6 pin round plug (male end) from the wiper motor are different in color than the wires in the corresponding (female end) plug. Any help or direction you can supply me will be greatly appreciated.

[280z-racer]

hey grumpy,

 

quick Q for you. on a 91 5.7 liter vin code K- is TDC #! cylinder with the dots on the sprockets straight up or pointing toward each other like on the LT1?

[grumpyvette]

[280z-racer]

thanks grumpy!! i thought they were straight up but after doing an LT1 i wanted to make sure.

[jay260z]

My 327 in the Z has a leaking rear main seal, its making a huge mess and is going to get to my clutch very soon but it needs to be replaced anyways. Is there any tricks to help prevent it from happening again once the new seal is installed or just cross my fingers and hope for the best that it seals for a while.

 

The engine has a new oil pan gasket felpro P/N OS34509T that was installed when the engine got all new gaskets because it leaked everywhere when it was pulled form the old car. The engine ran on a break-in stand for a few short periods of time and it never leaked there so im led to believe that its not the oil pan. The flywheel is basicly throwing the oil outwards and its getting oil all over the back side of the flywheel, starter, bell housing, headers, frame rails ect

 

thanks.

[grumpyvette]

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=1718&p=4257&hilit=+seal#p4257

 

tips ?

 

make sure your using the correct seal design for the journal diam.

 

use the correct seal with the lip facing to the engine front

 

use silicone sealant on the ends and off set the ends from the blocks main cap slightly

 

use the brush on sealant on the contact area between the main cap and block and the rear outward surface on the seal

 

make sure you degrease the seal mounting surface before snapping it into place with the wet brush on sealant on the back outer surface

 

lube the lip of the seal that touches the rotating crank with a finger tip of Vaseline

[saxfiend1967]

hey ,whats the best way to get some more tire under my z. Im bulding a 427 small chevy and need to figure out how to hook it I have thought about many options.1 ford 9 inch,2 infinity,3 corvette, I am really perplexed about it. I really want to keep independent rear. thanks ahead of time,B

[HZ Ryder]

I recently picked-up Dave Greimann’s V8Z, from someone who bought the car from him.. hope to save it from becoming someone’s jungle gym set. Unfortunately, the body is well pretty much done rotted through and the rails are bent. The engine really caught my eye, so I am doing my best to pull all the good stuff out and hopefully bring back a version two of the car… Any way… the engine appears to have been built in 1979 and I want to put into a 1981 280ZX body. I am very confused / frustrated as to if I can do this legally with this mill, from my understanding was still in production through the early eighties, so why couldn’t I just rebuild-it and put it into the new body; or should I just call it a day and part it out and work with a newer eighties engine. I have tried to look everywhere and there seems to be two camps on this; new chassis older engine, or engine of same year or newer than the chassis. The specs on the engine are as follows;

5.7 (350 cu.in) Chevy 90 Degree V8

TFS Twisted Wedge aluminium heads

Keith Black flat top hypereutectic pistons

Crane Powermax #114142 camshaft. (216,228@.050-112 LSA)

Summit aluminium roller rockers

10.5:1 compression

Holly4Di programmable TBFI on top of a Edelbrock Performer intake manifold

BW World Class T5

Any help would be great.. I started the demo on the current car… what I found well let me say very intresting????

Thanks..

[grumpyvette]

I recently picked-up Dave Greimann’s V8Z, from someone who bought the car from him.. hope to save it from becoming someone’s jungle gym set. Unfortunately, the body is well pretty much done rotted through and the rails are bent. The engine really caught my eye, so I am doing my best to pull all the good stuff out and hopefully bring back a version two of the car… Any way… the engine appears to have been built in 1979 and I want to put into a 1981 280ZX body. I am very confused / frustrated as to if I can do this legally with this mill, from my understanding was still in production through the early eighties, so why couldn’t I just rebuild-it and put it into the new body; or should I just call it a day and part it out and work with a newer eighties engine. I have tried to look everywhere and there seems to be two camps on this; new chassis older engine, or engine of same year or newer than the chassis. The specs on the engine are as follows;

5.7 (350 cu.in) Chevy 90 Degree V8

TFS Twisted Wedge aluminium heads

Keith Black flat top hypereutectic pistons

Crane Powermax #114142 camshaft. (216,228@.050-112 LSA)

Summit aluminium roller rockers

10.5:1 compression

Holly4Di programmable TBFI on top of a Edelbrock Performer intake manifold

BW World Class T5

Any help would be great.. I started the demo on the current car… what I found well let me say very intresting????

Thanks..

 

each states laws differ but ID say the build dates are close enough that the engine could very easily be a same year replacement crate engine from a car of the same year thats been rebuilt , same as the body and thats how ID approach the problem and title the car, its a 1981 car with a 1981 engine, they will have an impossible job proving other wise

 

 

http://search.dmv.org/dmv/new-jersey/kit-car

 

http://www.dmv.org/nj-new-jersey/custom-built-cars.php

 

http://search.dmv.org/dmv/getting-a-title-for-kit-car

 

http://www.sos.state.il.us/departments/vehicles/title_registration/apply_custom_rod.html

 

http://www.mva.maryland.gov/AboutMVA/INFO/27300/27300-31T.htm

Edited October 6, 2009 by grumpyvette

[HZ Ryder]

U Have made my day.. thanks.. The first link gave me, what I believe, the go-ahead. It appears that cars that are 25 years years old and older are considered "historic" and are exempt from "general" inspections.. Now I hope that "general" means smog / emissions test. Thoughts???

 

All I can say is WOW... U really know, if not know where to get meaningful information"

 

thanks:mrgreen:

[boostiswhatsfordinner]

Hey grumpy... should be an easy one for ya.

 

I got my car and ive been trying to get it running (74 260z, dual webs)

 

So i turn the key, cranks but no start. It will only run with starting fluid. So i went back to look at the fuel pump and there was a wire running the entire length of the car with a blade connector in the fuse panel location on the passenger side.

 

I know by seeing that wire that it was jimmy rigged to work but I wanna do it the right way. Looks like the original wire is non-existent.

 

Im a noob when it comes to relays but I know its needed.

 

Can you help me through it?