Gauging interest in EDIS mounting parts

[Derek]

So there is a timing mark on the damper or is this the timing mark you see on the engine when the damper is installed?

 

I'll measure the threaded part of the bolt when I get home from work.

 

 

Alex

 

There's a tiny notch in the rim of the innermost pulley.

[Pharaohabq]

How about alternate notch patterns? How hard would it be to have you make one that could match up with alternate notch patterns, say to match a GM Pattern. the rest of the setup I'd be interrested in, but only if I could get this different pattern. though I might be able to just buy a Hesco Balancer if it would fit a L28 crank.. I'll have to pull mine off and see how similar the two are.

 

These are awesome btw.. but I'm sure I've said that before.

 

Phar

[Derek]

How about alternate notch patterns? How hard would it be to have you make one that could match up with alternate notch patterns, say to match a GM Pattern. the rest of the setup I'd be interrested in, but only if I could get this different pattern. though I might be able to just buy a Hesco Balancer if it would fit a L28 crank.. I'll have to pull mine off and see how similar the two are.

 

These are awesome btw.. but I'm sure I've said that before.

 

Phar

 

I'm not sure what your asking but the hub adapter will only fit the stock damper like this one.

 

I'm trying to find out the relationship between the 2) 1/4-20 puller bolts and the timing marks over the various hubs.

 

Ideally knowing the relationship between the keyway, timing mark and 1/4 20 bolts. would be great.

 

 

I'm trying to get this info so I can make these as close to a plug and play as I can get.

 

Thanks

Derek

[djbit]

Okay, here are pictures with the timing mark noted.

 

Also, the thread length on the crank screw measured 32mm.

 

Let me know if you need any more measurements.

 

Alex

[Derek]

Hi Alex.

Now we're getting somewhere. Your damper is exactly the same as mine except for the timing mark. Mine is the mirror image of yours. My timing indicator badge is on the left side. Yours must be on the right side where the sensor mount is going to bolt. Am I correct on this?

 

Thanks

Derek

[rossman]

Hmm, I thought all Z car timing marks are on the same side as Alex showing.

 

Hi Alex.

Now we're getting somewhere. Your damper is exactly the same as mine except for the timing mark. Mine is the mirror image of yours. My timing indicator badge is on the left side. Yours must be on the right side where the sensor mount is going to bolt. Am I correct on this?

 

Thanks

Derek

[clint78z]

Mine timing indicator is on the front passenger side (north america), where the alternator bolts on. I didn't know any L motor had timing on the intake manifold side ???

[djbit]

Derek, looking at the damper from the front my timing mark is on the left or passengers side.

 

If I turn the damper on the horizontal plane 180 degrees counter clockwise and take a picture of the backside of the damper then the timing mark will be on the right. Maybe that's were the confusion was.

 

I think my damper is just like yours.

 

 

Hi Alex.

Now we're getting somewhere. Your damper is exactly the same as mine except for the timing mark. Mine is the mirror image of yours. My timing indicator badge is on the left side. Yours must be on the right side where the sensor mount is going to bolt. Am I correct on this?

 

Thanks

Derek

[Derek]

Just to prove I'm not stoned.

 

This is going to complicate things for some (all) of you. It appears my sensor holder bolts on to where your timing indicators currently mount. This is going to make your install a bit trickier. Your going to have to rig a timing indicator on the drivers side.

Here's the way it would work. Install hub adapter and 36-1 wheel. Set the timing indicator on 10 deg btdc. Make a timing pointer out of stiff wire (temporary) or out of sheet stock. Mount it in one of the holes that my indicator mounts to. Make a mark on the damper where the pointer is. This is now 10 deg. btdc (limp mode). Install sensor, align 36-1 wheel, check timing at new mark.

I'll add this to my install instructions with a little better detail.

 

If This is going to be too much hassle I can refund money.

 

Although making a wire indicator is a lot easier than making a sensor mount!

 

Derek

[djbit]

I'll have to see where my timing indicator is - alternator side or distributor side. I find it so weird your damper timing mark is on the opposite side of mine.

 

Maybe I'm the stoned one here. I'll have to check this after work.

[z-ya]

Not to throw a wrench in all of this, but these are OLD dampers you are working with. It can get ugly when one of these old dampers come apart at RPM.

 

These guys can rebuild it for you: http://www.damperdoctor.com/

 

You might think about using a new one because they are not all that expensive:

 

http://www.professional-products.com/dampersProductNissan.php

 

I have this one on my race car. MSA sells it for $89. I think Damper Doctor charges close to $80 to rebuild one.

 

 

I had a 36-1 wheel plasma cut so that it bolts to the two holes in the Powerforce damper. The only thing I did was mount it on the damper (grade 7 bolts plus locktite), then I trued the assembly on a lathe.

 

The time consuming part was stick building the sensor bracket with 1/4" steel rod. This is where your nice CNC bracket would come in handy.

 

I could have a bunch of these wheels cut if people are interested.

 

So no machining would be needed as I could true them all up in one sitting in front of a lathe. Bolt the wheel on the new damper, mount the sensor, and you would be good to go.

 

This is what one of the wheels looks like that I had made for the supercharger setup I had. The one I'm running now looks similar, but just has two mounting holes in it.

 

 

Just a thought.

 

Pete

[Pharaohabq]

I was talking about a ring that would fit on your dampener that had marks liek this, rather than 36...

 

 

 

See This dampener has only 12 notches out of it. I think the timing mark is about 35 degrees from the crankshaft key, but I would need to verify this. real similar to DJ's rear view pict.

 

phar

[Derek]

You might think about using a new one because they are not all that expensive:

 

http://www.professional-products.com...ductNissan.php

 

I have this one on my race car. MSA sells it for $89. I think Damper Doctor charges close to $80 to rebuild one.

 

 

Well I need two pulleys so that's a non starter for me. You know we like our A/C in Florida! The rebuilding service is good to know though.

 

The whole assumption on my hub adapter is that the crank bolt is true and the hub adapter fits snugly on the crank bolt. The outer rim is concentric with the bolt hole. The laser cut 36-1 wheels are then bored to match the hub. The hub adapter has air gap all the way around it and only contacts the damper at the machined area where the crank bolt washer contacts.

 

 

Now having said all that If anyone wants to move towards using Pete's method PM me and I'll gladly refund their money. Fortunately I haven't spent it yet:biggrin:

 

But you better hurry I need some stuff for my manifold!

 

Derek

[Derek]

I was talking about a ring that would fit on your dampener that had marks liek this, rather than 36...

 

 

 

See This dampener has only 12 notches out of it. I think the timing mark is about 35 degrees from the crankshaft key, but I would need to verify this. real similar to DJ's rear view pict.

 

phar

 

 

Phar you have me all confused. Are you doing this on purpose to distract me from my manifold:biggrin:

 

My setup is for the EDIS wheel only. What ignition system is that from?

 

Derek

[Pharaohabq]

Phar you have me all confused. Are you doing this on purpose to distract me from my manifold:biggrin:

 

My setup is for the EDIS wheel only. What ignition system is that from?

 

Derek

 

Okay, yeah I know yours is for EDIS, but I think with a different wheel it could be adapted to fit a GM Sequential EFI system. All I'd need to figure is Cam Position sensor, and that might not be that hard. That "mopar performance balancer" is for a Jeep 4.0L EFI system. The CPS reads the 12 notches to tell which cylinder is on intake and exhaust and thus when to fire each injector. I'm not trying to threadjack tho, my thread on Mopar EFI on a Z is here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135946.

 

Now getting you back to your manifold. How's that going? You've got all your Megasquirt parts already right?

 

So can you make your adapter for the L28 dampener like this:

 

But with only 12 notches like the mopar balancer I poster earlier?

 

Phar

[z-ya]

Can't you just remove two teeth from the EDIS wheel, then skip one, remove two, skip one, etc.?

[djbit]

Okay, my timing marks are on the passenger's side. Derek, are you running an L28 (I am)? Anyways, looks like I can just look for the timing mark plaque thingy and bolt it on the right since the bolts are there and they look to be in the same location as yours.

 

btw, I'm still on for the order.

 

This thread here clarifies the timing marks on opposite sides. The solution seems easy enough I think.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108400&highlight=l28+timing+mark

[z-ya]

Derek,

 

I guess I was thinking of mating your sensor bracket, and my wheel. Of course anyone can have these wheels made. Waterjet, plasma, whatever. I was just thinking of people that may want a new damper. BTW, these Powerforce dampers are essentially the same as the old "Euro" damper Nismo used to sell. So the two bolt spacing is the same. What is really weird is the Nissan damper had 1/4-20 threaded holes, and the Powerforce has 8mm ones.

[clint78z]

Hmm bit of a pickle, just throwing some thoughts out here. Might be able to slightly modify things to work. Can the current EDIS mount be notched the thickness of the timing indicator, that way it could be mounted underneath DEREKS EDIS mount. Not sure if that is feasable, may not be able to get a timing light in there. Or how about making a mirror image of the EDIS mount, considering the majority have timing on the alternator side. Not sure if A/C can be run this way ??

 

I am still in if we have to do it as it stands. Timing tape can be used as well to reclock everything, one shot deal.

[Pharaohabq]

Can't you just remove two teeth from the EDIS wheel, then skip one, remove two, skip one, etc.?

 

Sadly, no, it needs to be the inverse so its reading the spaces. at least I think that's what it's doing. lets look at a GM flywheel.

 

See, it's also got the notches out of it. so basically cutting off a few teeth might work, but I think it could confuse things. I have a timing diagram in PDF, but that's a little more work than needed. I just need Derek to say he can make an alternate ring for his EDIS adaptor, then give a price, and I'll say ooh! okay, I'm interrested. Though I may not really need one since I'm putting in a VQ..

 

Phar