Gauging interest in EDIS mounting parts

[Derek]

PM sent

[softopz]

Just to let the other members know if they already upgraded to the MSA perfomance pulley the (powerforce dampers$99 one), they can still use dereks parts to switch to EDIS.

 

I recieved my parts not too long ago and I completely jumped on buying them totally forgetting that Derek had made this for a certain pulley. I had the MSA pulley and was expecting to ditch it for my old one, however that also was completely different. So I opted to use the parts with the same pulley.

 

First of all the adaptor holes that are pre drilled come within a milimeter to just mounting with out drilling. I drilled two different holes I believe 7cm but check for yourself. The good thing about it is the Hub its centered to the bolt of the crank so I believe I got really well centered with out too much headache.

 

 

 

 

Then I mounted the VR sensor mount and measured how far The sensor mount is away from the 36-1 wheel. It was exactly 2 cm away. Another

 

Another good thing is even with the hub adaptor not sticking inside the damper it was designed for. It doesnt stick out too much past the fan pulley.

 

 

 

Not only are DEREKS pieces very well built but another nice thing was the VR sensor consists of two pieces so you can push it away from the motor or cut the second piece and bring it closer. And thats what I did. I went to the hardware store and got some longer bolts. So you can see the spacers I used was 2 cm away.

 

 

 

So for you guys thinking to switch to EDIS I REALLY RECOMMEND GETTING THESE PARTS make your life allot easier. I would do without the hub and get a DIYautotune. 36-1 wheel and then just shorten the VR sensor distance. Also the VR Plug gets closer to belt but clears away.

 

[Nelsonian]

I will be utilizing this damper setup and am wondering if it would work with this. The damper is from zraceproducts.com.

[SidWell]

Nice package. I wish it would have been available when I was doing my install. Is there a reason you chose to locate the VR sensor on the right (passenger side) of the motor and not on the left (driver's side) of the motor?

[Derek]

I think it's hanging out too far!

Here's the deal. Get me a measurement from the face of the damper to the face of the flat sensor bracket that mounts to the case. I also need the spacing on the two bolts on the damper. I'll cut you a spacer plate to replace the hub that will bolt on the way you have it and bring the wheel in closer. I'll set it up for one of my laser cut wheels.

This method of mounting will work but it's dependent on the holes in the damper being concentric to the bore. Otherwise it will have runout. It will be better than what you have though.

I'll exchange the whole rig all you have to do is pay shipping. These EDIS wheels have been a pain anyway and I'd like to see this done right.

 

How's that for a deal.

 

Derek

[Derek]

I will be utilizing this damper setup and am wondering if it would work with this. The damper is from zraceproducts.com.

 

I'm not sure. If it's the same bolt pattern as softopz's damper then What I plan on making for him should work for you.

 

Nice package. I wish it would have been available when I was doing my install. Is there a reason you chose to locate the VR sensor on the right (passenger side) of the motor and not on the left (driver's side) of the motor?

 

My AC compressor is on the drivers side. I had more room on the passengers side as the v angle on the alternator belt is wider.

 

Derek

[softopz]

Hey Derek I know it looks like that but now at least it sticks out, and people will be like hey you got EDIS.,,, hehe I know it looks funny still. But for real I think I brought the bolts almost perfect and I dont think the run out is huge, that pic is not showing true center. How far does the VR have to be ? or should I say how close.

 

Besides from the top it doesnt pass the fan pulley and im not going to run the mechanical fan or anything. In the future I plan to put a Fan triggered by MS that will be on the front of the rad. Ill still get you the measurements if you like. Are you proposing to use the same wheel or the laser cut ones?

 

So today Igot the wires they look good. Funny story I forgot to add in the post aboveif any of you guys are getting the wires using the ford coil pack and bracket just contact MAGNECOR order the same wires .. I told the REp on the phone i dont have measurements just gimme what DEREK had from Ocala FL. and sure enough he found the specs. Just another point to make a less hassle conversion. They only come in red for that series. Its good looking wire though for 89 + 9 shipping and came fast too.

 

Now all I gotta do is wire this thing. Im running the on board ignitor so

- First thing remove jumpers.

- I am going to upgrade the alternator at the same time !

- Cant forget to obviously time the beast set on #1 compression stroke and 6 teeth before missing tooth right?

- Shield the wires definatly! and get a radio filter ! wow so much to do I hope it finally runs IM GETTING REALLY EXCITED!

- Then for ingition capture do I jumper back to HALL/OPTICAL or VR? I am getting confused back to the megamanual for me. ergh I remember Removing some i hope it doesnt affect anything

 

Someone needs to clean the stickys. I cant remember the stickys having info that sticks out like the my hub lol oh my its gettin late and im making corny puns. been a looooong night.

[rossman]

I'm going to guess that Derek is concerned that it might be too flexible sticking out that far. If the mount hits a natural resonance from the engine vibration it might move around too much or worse wack the 32-1 wheel. You want it very stiff. My $0.02.

 

Hey Derek I know it looks like that but now at least it sticks out, and people will be like hey you got EDIS.,,, hehe I know it looks funny still. But for real I think I brought the bolts almost perfect and I dont think the run out is huge, that pic is not showing true center. How far does the VR have to be ? or should I say how close.

 

Besides from the top it doesnt pass the fan pulley and im not going to run the mechanical fan or anything. In the future I plan to put a Fan triggered by MS that will be on the front of the rad. Ill still get you the measurements if you like. Are you proposing to use the same wheel or the laser cut ones?

[rossman]

I'm having a few fitment issues with mine. For reference, my damper came off a '78z. First, I had to turn down the OD of the hub that fits inside the damper to get it to fit. Problem solved. Second the 32-1 flange bottoms against the damper and there is a small gap between, what I would call the mounting flange were the bolt head sits. Is this correct? Should the large washer go under the bolt head or between the hub and the damper? Lastly, the VR sensor doesn't fit between the mounting bosses on the bracket. Maybe I have the wrong one?

You can see here that the 32-1 wheel flange sits flush on the outer v-groove flange:

 

Barely visible, there is a gap between the bottom of the mounting flange and the hub:

The VR sensor I have doesn't fit between the posts:

It looks like that if the VR sensor did fit between the posts it would be positioned too far in towards the engine:

 

What do you think is causing these problems? Am I using the wrong parts? Also, let me say that these are great parts. I am very happy that you produced them for these old cars. I can imagine that there are lots of different combinations and it's difficult to capture them all in one design.

 

Cheers,

Ross

[clint78z]

I got my kit Derek, haven't tried it out yet. Some very good craftsmanship, glad you offered it to everyone. There are probably a few differences to the Z pulleys over the years, it's good we document them. Ford typically likes to change parts like underwear, same years can have 3 different setups. Not sure if my VR sensor is the same, got to do a littlle leg work.

 

We all very much appreciate this kit, saved so much time and money.

 

Cheers, clint78z

[Derek]

What a bunch of whiners! You actually want things to fit?

 

After perusing the pictures I know what the problem is. The outer pully on my damper is to drive a air pump and is a narrower groove. This means the distance from the base of the damper where the crank bolt goes to the shoulder of the pulley is longer. That's why there is an air gap between the hub adapter and the damper.

There are a few way's we can go.

1) I can leave the country and you'll never hear from me again.

2) I can machine a spacer to go between the damper and the hub adapter to space it out. This would require some good measuring. but is doable.

3) Someone (rossman I'm talkin to you man ) can send me their damper, sensor, and all the parts back and I'll machine everything to fit.

At that point we will probably have a baseline to work from. This is my preferred solution.

 

I take a lot of pride in my work and it bugs me that this stuff isn't working out for you guys.

 

Let me know.

 

Derek

[highly]

Here's the solution I used for the performance damper. Not shown are 4 BHCS to affix the reluctor ring to the adapter.

 

 

 

 

Derek- If you would like the IGS file or toolpath, just drop me a PM and I'll email it to you.

 

I do NOT know how the spacing is with the sensor mount you sell, though, as I do not have one. I can give you measurements if you need them.

[Derek]

Mmmmm... That sure is a purdy 3D file.

 

PM sent.

[rossman]

Option 3 sounds good. PM me your mailing address and I'll send you all the parts.

 

Once I started looking at all the different dampers Nissan used on these engines I started to realize that the design might need to be tweaked. Once I tried to install it, I knew the design needed to be tweaked. I am perfectly willing to fix the problem myself but I have limited tools and fabrication skills. I appreciate you taking ownership of your design. I am a mechanisms designer and I feel the same way. If something I design doesn't work I'm going to fix it and fix it right.

 

Cheers,

Ross

 

 

What a bunch of whiners! You actually want things to fit?

 

After perusing the pictures I know what the problem is. The outer pully on my damper is to drive a air pump and is a narrower groove. This means the distance from the base of the damper where the crank bolt goes to the shoulder of the pulley is longer. That's why there is an air gap between the hub adapter and the damper.

There are a few way's we can go.

1) I can leave the country and you'll never hear from me again.

2) I can machine a spacer to go between the damper and the hub adapter to space it out. This would require some good measuring. but is doable.

3) Someone (rossman I'm talkin to you man ) can send me their damper, sensor, and all the parts back and I'll machine everything to fit.

At that point we will probably have a baseline to work from. This is my preferred solution.

 

I take a lot of pride in my work and it bugs me that this stuff isn't working out for you guys.

 

Let me know.

 

Derek

[rossman]

Very nice. I wish someone offered a performance 2-groove damper. I got to have A/C living in South Texas!

 

Here's the solution I used for the performance damper. Not shown are 4 BHCS to affix the reluctor ring to the adapter.

 

 

 

 

Derek- If you would like the IGS file or toolpath, just drop me a PM and I'll email it to you.

 

I do NOT know how the spacing is with the sensor mount you sell, though, as I do not have one. I can give you measurements if you need them.

[Noddle]

Here's the solution I used for the performance damper. Not shown are 4 BHCS to affix the reluctor ring to the adapter.

 

 

 

 

Derek- If you would like the IGS file or toolpath, just drop me a PM and I'll email it to you.

 

I do NOT know how the spacing is with the sensor mount you sell, though, as I do not have one. I can give you measurements if you need them.

 

Look like what I did awhile ago

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=928000#post928000

 

Nigel

[theghosttanker]

Derek, I really like the looks of your work but the various bugs are getting me confused. If I send you my dampener (the single pulley MSA performance type they are now selling) can you make up a hub that fits it without so much protrusion , and make and mount a trigger wheel to it for me?If I send you my sensor as well can you make the correct size mount for it? And have you found a source for longer-than- stock crankshaft bolts to make up the thickness differences? If you tell me yes to all three questions you can have my firstborn son. Or you could tell me how many dollars you would charge for the package! Thanks!

[michez]

If you are still making the parts I will take the whole setup for a 83 turbo. pm me with the cost

Michez

[proxlamus©]

PM sent.. ready to buy

[Derek]

Ok

Here's the deal.

In my infinite wisdom I made my system fit a 1973 damper with an airpump.

 

This fits a damper that has two pullies, the outer one being narrower than the inner and no protruding ears on the inside bore of the damper.

 

I recon this fits about 4 cars in the US, including mine 5.

 

Rossman sent me his setup from a later model 280Z with the A/C mounted on the drivers side. This damper has two pulleys that are the same size and a smooth bore on the inside of the damper. I'm machining a new adapter for his damper and based upon my initial measurements I don't see any problems. So that will damper style #2

 

highly sent me an IGES file on his adapter that fits the MSA performance single pully damper. I'll be making an adapter ring like the one in the photo of his post.

 

As far as the ZX Turbo goes I'm not sure whay's going to fit that. I kind of have my hands full right now getting everyone that's purchased hooked up with the right parts. I think this is a pic of the Turbo damper

 

 

This was Rossmans original damper.

 

 

If anyone that bought one of my hub adapters that hasn't installed it yet please check it out and make sure it fit's. If you have a problem PM me and I'll get it straightened out.

 

Derek