Guest Grenade300 Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 I noticed recently that my JCI engine mounts have complessed enough over time to allow the alternator and crank pulley to start strking the steering rack. Is anybody else having this issue? Those of you who are not having this issue, how muck clearence do you have between the bottom of your alternator and the steering rack? Thanks, Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 From what I remember last time I was going over my car before the track, I notice how close the alt was to the drivers side mount. I plan to grind it down a bit to get more clearance. Is there anyway for you to get us some pics of what you are talking about? Clive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColtGT4g63 Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 My Alternator was damn close when I first got everything installed into the car. Thanks for the reminder to go make sure its not going to make contact! I think I slipped some rubber in there between the Hot post on the side of the alternator just in case it decided to short out on me. I've been alright so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 My Alternator was damn close when I first got everything installed into the car. Thanks for the reminder to go make sure its not going to make contact! I think I slipped some rubber in there between the Hot post on the side of the alternator just in case it decided to short out on me. I've been alright so far. Close to the drivers side mount? If so, I had the same feeling you had! I was amazed it was so damn close...I thought I was the only one. Clive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColtGT4g63 Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 yes, drivers side mount. You're not alone my friend. luckily when you mash on the gas, the motor torque's in the rotation that pulls the alternator up and away from the mount Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 I'll check mine tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Grenade300 Posted November 18, 2008 Share Posted November 18, 2008 To begin with I was very uncomfortable with how close the alt sat to the mount. My crank pulley is also starting to strike. I will be swapping to a 25% underdrive pulley to solve that issue. a 25% underdrive pulley is about 1.5 inches smaller in diameter. I am working feverishly with a CNC shop to come up with a cost effective solution for relocating the alternator. Should have my prototype done in about a week. If it works out then I will happily start producing more for the rest of us. I refuse to pay $500 for a relocation bracket. If this works out, would any of you be interested in a bracket that is CNC plasma cut and welded PROPERLY for about $200? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOBBY BATES Posted November 18, 2008 Share Posted November 18, 2008 Have you looked at thunder racing, i'm running there alt. bracket.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Grenade300 Posted November 19, 2008 Share Posted November 19, 2008 Ya, but their alt bracket leaves the alternator in the stock location. The problem would not be solved. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zed240au Posted November 20, 2008 Share Posted November 20, 2008 hi have mounted my alternator in std gto position but like you not overly happy with the clearance i believe it would be ok but if you can make something for $200 that fixes issue id sure be interested in buying one where exactly are you gonna mount alternator mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1noel Posted November 20, 2008 Share Posted November 20, 2008 I just checked mine. I have about 1/2" clearance crank pulley to steering rack, and as stated in other threads, I did some work on the driver's side motor mount to provide more room for the alternator. Two years next month with no problems. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Grenade300 Posted November 20, 2008 Share Posted November 20, 2008 Zed240au: I am trying to mount the alt on the pass side head. My test fit works and clears the hood. I am waiting for the machinest to get my stuff drawn up on the CAD program and cut my metal. M1Noel: Would you mind posting a link to the thread you are refering to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NESS89 Posted November 30, 2008 Share Posted November 30, 2008 hey you guys think ill have clerance issues with my alternator hitting my hood if its mounted up on top? my engine came out of a 08 corvette and all the accesories are mounted in the stock location. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Grenade300 Posted November 30, 2008 Share Posted November 30, 2008 There is another guy on here running Corvette accessories. If I remember correctly, he had to relocate his alt because it would not clear the driver's side strut tower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheeler Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Figured this might be a good place to put this... I have a 280Z and a GTO LS1 with the JCI kit, I have just installed the engine and the alternator stud looks like it has about 1/2-3/4" of interference with the engine mount. Even if I cut 3/4 inch off the stud I would still hit. I know the clearence is very tight here, but my case seem very extreme. I have a GTO alternator, any chance that it is longer then the Cammaro alternator. Any other ideas here? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheeler Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 Not tryin to hijack this, its a little bit of an older thread. Anyways here are a couple of pictures of what I'm dealing with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palosfv3 Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 You'll need to go with the Camaro/Firebird alternator . The GTO style wont work unless you make a major modification to the engine mount bracket . Wiring routing will also create another small challenge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zed240au Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 i got the gto mount alternator to work but did it by using the standard front mounts cutting the output supply post on alternator as short as i could and making a new rear mount out of 5/16 steel shaped to fit around cross member engine mount mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Grenade300 Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 Here is my alternator solution... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143406 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winfab Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 A quick question about alternator placement issues. I have a 2004 C5 Vette LS1, complete with all accessories, going into a 1971 240Z. I know that people say to swap the Camaro alternator and bracket over to the Vette block. However, the belt runs about 3/4" closer to the block on the Vette. I am wondering if I can just swap the crank pulley, and tensioner pulley over from a Camaro LS1, and run the Camaro alternator...this should essentially make everything line up? It looks like the water pump sits out the same distance as the Camaro one, so the belt should still line up with the Vette oil pump. Anyone have any comments, or have done this and had enough clearance? Thanks! Jay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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