Newbie L30ET Build

[S30TRBO]

Got it: KAV

 

 

edit: woops should have read your reply on the last page. Oh well it's gonna look schweet...

Edited March 25, 2010 by S30TRBO

[EvilC]

So being around Joe (rags), I have the bug again to get this motor built. I just purchased one of the few last big ticket items I will need. Garrett GT35r .82 A/R is in the mail and should be here next week. I have been reading through several turbo threads getting a better understanding of what I "think" will work for me. So my intake and exhaust manni is off to Paul for some port work. I guess I should call the body shop and see how the car is doing...lol

[turboHLS30]

Any updates?

[EvilC]

Sorry guys, this entire turbo setup has been sold to two members here on the site. I will leave it up to them to let u know how these parts worked out.

[Oddmanout84]

Sorry guys, this entire turbo setup has been sold to two members here on the site. I will leave it up to them to let u know how these parts worked out.

 

 

Really?

 

I was worried when I saw those FS posts on CTZCC. Sad... Was looking forward to that build.

[EvilC]

So who would have thought I would be updating this thread, funny how life goes.

 

 

So I bought back the parts I sold for this build besides the head because the buyer dumped his project and picked up a nice 350z instead. During the last few months, the gf has stated she wanted a turbo Z to drive....so picked this car up -

 

 

and now the turbo build moves on.

 

 

I had another 82 280zxt donor I stripped this past weekend but the engine was sold to a local club member so now I have to search for a new head. Again not going to be a rush project as this 260z runs and drives great!

 

So I am back in the L6 forum!

[EvilC]

Winter is coming and time to start making a list of haves and have nots.

 

So what is the plan. The plan is to get the L30 swapped in and running on the MS without an IC setup. The stock 4 speed will remain in the car along with the r180. The engine will need a break in period so there will be no boosting of the engine at all.

 

So what do I have:

 

Short block complete

1mm metal HG

MS wiring harness ready for plug n play

Most of the EDIS parts

GT35R Turbo

 

 

What do I need:

 

P90 Head

New oil pump

New water pump (would like to find L24D pump)

Fuel rail with injectors

Intake manni

exhaust manni

75-76 tank

240sx tb and spacer

Spark plugs n wires

FPR

Steering rack bushings

Engine mounts?

Time

$

 

So, I did a v8 swap last year from a local Z guy would have a turbo setup in his car. In just talking a few days ago I realize he still has all of his parts minus the block because it was damaged. We will see if we can work out a deal where I grab his p90 head, fuel rail with injectors and FPR attached, possibly turbo and a nice ss downpipe, exhaust manni with flange already welded to it. As far as his intake manni we shall see. I believe he has a Garret gt42 turbo installed on his setup. So I will be heading back to the flow charts and see if this would be ideal for my setup. I still have to go back and look at the .63 vs .82 A/R talk with the gt35r turbo I have.

 

If I can pick up a few of these items before the snow gets here, I will try assemble the engine. If not, first thing in the Spring she will be going into the 260.

[rossman]

I'm not sure what your goals are but I think a GT42 is too much for a daily driver L6. A .63 A/R GT35 seemed to work well for BigPhil and it's what I'm doing. Hopefully I'll have mine running in a few months and I can report back. Of course, I've been saying that I'll have it running in a few months for over a year now.

[EvilC]

Def thought the GT42 was too big. It maybe something I have to buy and resell because I am sure it will come part of the package. I remember Phil going back and forth because of a surge issue. I believe he is still now running the .82 trim but plans to go back to the .63 I have to pull the info from his thread and post it here. I may just run the .82 for now to cut down on cost.

 

I know the feeling about saying in a few months it will be running. At least I have your thread to read and goals to set.

[EvilC]

Here is the thread I was talkin about regarding the .63 vs .82 on the GT35R. Also there is talk about boost creep and ideal WG setup.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/93259-swapped-my-63-for-82-hot-side-gt35r-video/page__hl__gt35r

 

 

Here is a pic of the MS harness done:

[rags]

We will see if we can work out a deal where I grab his p90 head,

 

CB, The head is no good also. Melted chamber and valves in cylinder 5.

 

Not my motor but I did the diag.

 

Joe

[EvilC]

CB, The head is no good also. Melted chamber and valves in cylinder 5.

 

Not my motor but I did the diag.

 

Joe

 

 

Ha, I did forget about the damage to the head. Phil says he has a head I can have so I will have him ship it out to me.

[EvilC]

Here is a useful link - Z-Engine Calculator:

 

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/calcs/engine%20builder/index.html

 

But here is where lots of info can be read if you do some poking around - I plan to print some of this stuff off and make a binder:

 

http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html

Edited October 28, 2011 by EvilC

[rbrick220]

If I were to build another turbo motor this what I would do:

 

- F54 block bored 1mm over

- L28 Crank

- L28 Rods

- Forged flat top pistons

- P90 head (solid), mild intake and exhaust cleanup work

- Schneider 270-60F-14 camshaft, new springs, retainers, and lash pads

- Resurfaced stock rocker arms

- Stock Nissan head gasket

- Balanced rotating assembly

- 90055 PowerForce+Plus damper

 

Why would you use the Flat top pistons vs dished pistons for a turbo build? Any ideas what this setup would produce at a mild boost setting ~7-10lbs?

[z-ya]

A little more static compression ratio to help off boost power? I posted this a few years ago, and would probably still use flat tops. I may choose a different cam. And I didn't mention what turbo I would use. It's the sum of the parts that matters. Consult your turbo guy before choosing a static compression ratio.

[EvilC]

Back to the fun!

 

So now it is time to read about turbos, learn how to read the maps correctly and break out the calculator!

 

So there are two different turbos right now in play. Already in the stash of parts there is the GT3582R as mentioned before with a .82 trim and also a GT3076 unknown A/R at this time.

 

 

So how to pick the best turbo? I can go with what was known to work (GT35R .63) and move along and be happy with it or research what was researched so I can understand. The GT3076 used asking price is $650 local so if anyone is going to chime in just a little background info.

 

So the plan is to really understand what my needs are and what the engine is capable of. I see Tony D all the time post when others post about the lbs of boost they are running and it is for good reason. Many people get caught up in "I am running 36 lbs to make 400hp blah blah blah".

 

So here is what I have - L30 short block complete, I am going to be using a stock p90 head and a non-webbed manni.

 

My knowns:

 

L30 Cylinder Volume = 516.35 cc (subject to change - need to double check piston card)

Head Volume = 53.6 cc (stock p90)

 

First I have to calculte how much air is moving through the engine at any given time. Here is the link I will be following and posting back here to check my logic....stay tuned:

 

http://www.enginelogics.com/cmaps.html

[Lazeum]

I've never had to choose a turbo on my cars but I know that Honeywell is doing an awesome job to help you choosing the right turbo for your application.

 

Based on readings, I would at least look at compressor map to pick up the right one for my goals. However, there're so many projects here that you can also choose based on users experience.

 

 

 

 

Here's the link (you have basic, advanced & expert topics)

Edited November 18, 2011 by Lazeum

[EvilC]

So my plan to break this engine is as follows:

 

Since the short block is together, I would like to pull the head off of the (L26) that is in the car right now and slap that on. A few reasons - 1 I would like to break the engine in with no boost. N/A is the safe way before I go boosting this thing and trying to keep my foot out of it. 2 the engine is running that is in the 260z so I can take it out and use the head. 3 this saves my from spending money because the rebuild SUs and intake is there and I can reuse my exhaust until late Spring.

 

I believe the CR will be 9.7:1 - check my math.

 

E88 head - 44.7cc

Nismo HG - 1mm

Ross Pistons - using 87mm bore, flat top piston, pin height 32.5mm?? that is the number I need to double check or measure correctly?

Rods L24 - 133mm

Crank LD28 - 83mm

 

So displacement is 2960.cc = L30

 

Ok I didn't measure any of these values, some taken from known values and piston info from the piston card.

 

I plan to double check all values when final assembly is taking place. I plan on ordering a new water pump this weekend from the dealer and hopefully put this engine in before the snow gets here! At the same time I will upgrade the alternator to a zx one for now. Plans are to go to a GM alternator down the road.

[EvilC]

However, there're so many projects here that you can also choose based on users experience.

 

 

Here's the link (you have basic, advanced & expert topics)

 

You are right but I really would like to understand what I am buying and paying for. Like I said, I know the GT35R is the way to go but why?

 

Learning is half the fun!

[z-ya]

So my plan to break this engine is as follows:

 

Since the short block is together, I would like to pull the head off of the (L26) that is in the car right now and slap that on. A few reasons - 1 I would like to break the engine in with no boost. N/A is the safe way before I go boosting this thing and trying to keep my foot out of it. 2 the engine is running that is in the 260z so I can take it out and use the head. 3 this saves my from spending money because the rebuild SUs and intake is there and I can reuse my exhaust until late Spring.

 

I believe the CR will be 9.7:1 - check my math.

 

E88 head - 44.7cc

Nismo HG - 1mm

Ross Pistons - using 87mm bore, flat top piston, pin height 32.5mm?? that is the number I need to double check or measure correctly?

Rods L24 - 133mm

Crank LD28 - 83mm

 

So displacement is 2960.cc = L30

 

Ok I didn't measure any of these values, some taken from known values and piston info from the piston card.

 

I plan to double check all values when final assembly is taking place. I plan on ordering a new water pump this weekend from the dealer and hopefully put this engine in before the snow gets here! At the same time I will upgrade the alternator to a zx one for now. Plans are to go to a GM alternator down the road.

 

 

Hi Clive,

 

It looks like your CR calculation is correct (I calculate 9.82:1). But are you sure the pin height is 32.5? It seems short, as the piston will be sunk 0.87mm into the block at TDC. You want a slightly positive deck height for squish. Also, don't waste that HKS gasket on this experiment. Use a Felpro one and save the HKS one for when you run boost.

 

But my feeling on this is just build it the way you want it now, not later. If you are concerned about damaging it with boost during break in, just tie the waste gate open with mechanics wire. You can tune your off boost map and break it in at the same time. What is most important is to use a good break in additive like Redline.

 

Pete