waddiejohn Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 When you guys replace the back hatch, or any of the other glass for that matter with Lexan do you try to match the curvature of the glass or just put it in as it comes? Of course the door windows would have to be curved I guess, but how close is close enough? If you try to match the stock glass, how do you go about it? Thanks for any replys, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1sick240 Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 im having same issues i want to do lexan on the windshield is it street legal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 Lexan is a race car only mod. It is very maintenence intensive and will scratch if you look at it wrong. For a race car, I would reccomend a tear off on the windshield to extend the life of the lexan. I've had a lexan windshield on the track car this year and will be going back to glass. Less work is better. I'll be gaining 15 lbs according to my scale. I'll gladly take the weight for a more durable part. The best way for me to drop weight would be to give up the ice cream. For a street car, It would be out of the question for me. One sweep of the wipers and the lexan would be badly scratched. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 Very shallow curves can be duplicated just in the mounting. Larger or sharper curves (like the windshield) must be set with heat and either a mold or a vacuum form. I agree with Mark regarding the appropriateness of polycarbonate windows on a street car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waddiejohn Posted December 11, 2008 Author Share Posted December 11, 2008 Thanks John and Mark. My thinking is just to replace the hatch and side windows. I didn't know if I could just install the Lexan flat or if I needed to mold to the curve. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 You should use straps on the hatch, that will pull the Lexan into shape a bit. Quarter glass shouldn't matter, don't do the door glass unless you never want to roll the window down. Just like the windshield wipers, if you roll the window down and back up it's going to be scratched up pretty badly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtl260z Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 You can buy lexan with a anti scratch coating (I believe its called MR10). I bought some to do my quarter windows and rear hatch glass. It's good stuff and doesn't scratch easily (I tested a leftover piece with some sandpaper). There is a company (don't remember the name) that makes preformed windshields (for race use only) and they have the coating as an option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 Some info on MR10 Lexan: http://www.modernplastics.com/june05/wdlexan.html Was it very expensive jtl? Also, I don't know that I see why you couldn't just use Contact or some other clear plastic covering? Like an untinted version of window tinting stuff. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckolander Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 I'm glad that somebody brought this up cause I was thinkin about replacing all side and rear glass with lexan. But if it will scratch that easily, then it's no go. Is there any other lightweight replacements for glass that will not scratch easily?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeeZ Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 It may scratch easy, but it will stop a bullet. In case of road rage, of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtl260z Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 Some info on MR10 Lexan: http://www.modernplastics.com/june05/wdlexan.html Was it very expensive jtl? Also, I don't know that I see why you couldn't just use Contact or some other clear plastic covering? Like an untinted version of window tinting stuff. Dave It wasn't that bad...I got enough to do my rear hatch and quarters for less than $150.00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtl260z Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 I'm glad that somebody brought this up cause I was thinkin about replacing all side and rear glass with lexan. But if it will scratch that easily, then it's no go. Is there any other lightweight replacements for glass that will not scratch easily?? Read my earlier post about the scratch resistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gira Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 You will definitely be gaining a maintenance issue using Lexan on a streetcar. If you're OK with that, Lexan is great. I cut 10 lbs from an already light rear hatch using carbon fiber hatch only that weighs 2.5 lbs! You can also do a flush mounted quarter window that helps with aero. I used special GE Glue from the polycarbonate store to glue mine in. No problems. Things to consider for rear hatch. 1. I think it's important to follow hatch contour for aero reasons. I bought plastic washer of the appropriate depth to achieve this from McMaster-Carr. I also used aluminum bolts and nuts for attachment approx every 8 inches or so. 2. For the glass not to try and lay flat once you have it all attached at the perimeter, you will need metal straps on the inside and outside. I use two equally spaced AND the inner one has to have a contour built into it. Greg Ira Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 I had a car in Japan what had the 1/4 window broken out several times as lowlives on base decided they needed some belongings of mine visible in the interior more than I did. After the third time, I put a Lexan window in there, figuring the next time they would break the large glass (guess not, it attracts too much attention)... someone heard the guy whack-whack whacking feverishly on my new lexan 1/4 window (smoked daaaark black!) with his stubby ball-pein hammer and called the SP's. They caught his butt and hauled him to the brig. Stops a bullet, heck, stops thieves. For an occasional user car, with some cockpit canopy polish polycarbonate sticks around opticallin in stationary windows for quite a long while. You just don't go cleaning it with water and newspaper! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckolander Posted December 13, 2008 Share Posted December 13, 2008 I'm just not sure how it will work with what I want to do with mine. I want to weld my hatch shut and make the window open. Also thinking about putting the quarters on hinges and having them open at the rear like some trucks do. Just not sure how I'm gonna work those out yet. Maybe actuators like my wife's van has for the rear windows, and hinges and latch out of an older gmc jimmy.............oooh, I think I can do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast-datsun Posted December 14, 2008 Share Posted December 14, 2008 there are several conpanies that bend and heat treat lexan so you can use wipers on it and make it scrach resistant. Hot Rodders use it as well as Military jets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AkumaNoZeta Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 The windsheild is a structual part of the unibody right? Would the Lexan be able to handle that kind of stress or do you pretty much need to have a full roll cage to take up the stress? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doradox Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 The windsheild is a structual part of the unibody right? Would the Lexan be able to handle that kind of stress or do you pretty much need to have a full roll cage to take up the stress? Since the windshield sits in rubber trim instead of being bonded in, like more modern cars, it's not too structural. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 The windsheild is a structual part of the unibody right? No, for the reason mentioned above (and others). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 if you do scratch it you can clean it uing a soft cloth and pledge. At least that's what we use on the cherokee windshield before a flight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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