Jump to content
HybridZ

Look at my new toy...Drilling Milling Machine


jerryb

Recommended Posts

I couldnt refuse this deal.....Zero Dollars...for a very dirty ...

 

PDM30_HR_1876.jpg

 

http://www.kingcanada.com/Products.htm?CD=36&ID=121

 

 

 

It was sitting in the back of a plant and was going to be thrown out. It was filthy but when I started to wipe off the grease and dirt it exposed itself in like new consition. It was only used for drilling heat treat salt out of threaded holes.

 

Heres the catch.....it was sitting next to a silica blast booth and every nook and cranny has sand in it.

 

Any advice on how to clean all this out? All I can think of is a complete breakdown.......

 

Not sure what I will do with it....LOL!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jerry I wouldn't mess with it, I will take it off your arms...this week-end perhaps! :)

 

In all seriousness, dismantle it, don't ruin the machine because there is sand everywhere. It is a precise machine, your want everything to work very well, a big job but for the price, you can't beat that!

 

PS..you seem to find good deals from time to time, perhaps let your friend from Hybridz-Toronto get some if you don't want them!!! :)

 

Dayz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well...I have two 1 gallon cans of wd40 and a bag O rags. Once it gets warm enough so the water wont freeze I will spray the WD all over and powerwash the beast. Then take it apart followed with some TLC.

 

I will need to buy a few rebuild parts and a set of R8 collets, end mills and a ??????...suggestions!

 

Then I will be all set to drill perfect holes!:mrgreen:

 

Thanx for your comments.....yahoo!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can I make a recommendation.

 

If you've read another post by a member giving away a R200 diff for FREE, because he cleaned it out with WD40 and sometime later opened it up and noticed that there was a ton of RUST inside it. Kind of like a foamy rust.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143524

 

If I were you, in the interest of saving that machine, I would suggest not to use WD40, and use a better cleaning agent, or make sure you oil everything down afterwords.

 

I know WD 40 stands for Water Displacement 40th formula, and it should keep water and rust away, but oil will protect better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanx for the warning. Im not 100% sure what caused the results below but I suspect it had something to do with leaving the WD40 in the diff and not rinsing out all the bad goo??? Ive used gallons and gallons of WD40 in my lifetime and cant remember anything like that described below.

 

The WD40 will not be used for ultimate protection but for solubilizing the grease and such. Then everything will be wiped or washed away ....then lubricated per the manufacturers recommendations.

 

Heck even after degreasing this baby I will still need to take it apart and remove the silica.

Its gonna be a pain....but worth it.

 

 

Can I make a recommendation.

 

If you've read another post by a member giving away a R200 diff for FREE, because he cleaned it out with WD40 and sometime later opened it up and noticed that there was a ton of RUST inside it. Kind of like a foamy rust.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143524

Link to comment
Share on other sites

naturally youll want to first disassemble the larger sections of the machine and possiably remove electrical components before you clean it,

you find a nice location with good drainage where you can take your time and pressure wash the crap out of the tool after soaking it down a few times with a good commercial grease solvent or the spray engine cleaners like GUNK, then spray it down with WD40 to help remove water/moisture.

now you don,t want some crazy tree hugger screaming about getting greasy suds into the water supply so a commercial car wash with the bays where you rent a pressure wand and throw pockets full of quarters into the machine while the machines in a pick-up truck bed might be an option.

once you get it reasonably clean ID suggest placing it near a portable heater someplace and carefully use lint free cloth and oil to finish up the process and don,t get cheap with the oil, BTW MARVEL MYSTERY OIL is a good cleaner as its loaded with solvents and leaves a protective film, but the key to doing this correctly is having the clean components dry and well oiled and hot to the touch from the heat source so you know the moistures been removed from the little cracks and threads, etc. before stopping the clean up process. try to prevent CONDENSATION, by keeping the machine surfaces hot to the touch and coated with oil.

http://www.heatershop.com/kerosene_forced_air_k50_fa.html

 

http://www.heatershop.com/forced_air_propane_heaters.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would do the same thing to it, that I do with any Machine Tool I buy new from Harbor Freight: take it apart.

 

Nothing beats a good physical cleaning with burshes, solvents, and proper preservatives and grease upon reassembly. If you plan on letting it sit, after polishing the machined surfaces with scotchbrite coate em all with cosmoline or grease and pack it away.

 

There is a good argument for taking individual parts to a real steam cleaner. If you have access to one, the way they clean parts is incomparable and they can save time. Steam clean and mist them with oil while still warm for the ride back home in the pickup bed. The downside to steam cleaning is that it cleans so well it drives the oil out of the pores of the metal, and the heat induced drys the water off initially...but like Grumpy mentioned, then any condensation that forms starts discolorisation and corrosion immdeiately. This is where a spray of WD40 does wonders for the short ride home. It drives the water out, refills the pores with oil-like solvent, and protects it for a short time.

 

Cleaning it physically through disassembly will also let you set up everything and know what needs attention. I'd likely do it even if it wasn't full of silica beads...

 

For the price, why not? Invest something into it, ya bastard! LOL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For the price, why not? Invest something into it, ya bastard! LOL

 

I prefer cheap bastard thank you! :evil:

 

A side note...this thing is very cool as it has a very small footprint and converts to 110V in a heart beat. However...it weights over 600 pounds!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ohh, that is a good idea! Get yourself some good hammertone paint to repaint it and have nice fresh metal... Though some of that industrial stuff has bondo where you least expect it!

 

"I assure you sir, the filler application is only to even out a casting irregularity in a non-stress area!"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...