slown280z Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 In case anyone cares: http://www.club-s12.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=25819 Something like this would be easy to replicate in the Z I think... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 Heating a rotor in itself wont warp them. The warp comes from heating them and then holding the pad againts the rotor when you arent moving. Uneven heating and/or uneven pad deposits will "warp" a rotor. Overheating a non-floating rotor (getting it beyond 1,400F) will also cause it warp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 Buy the brake lines from Silvermine Motors for $75 for the pair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted March 28, 2009 Author Share Posted March 28, 2009 wow.. Silvermine's pricing is about $100 more for the entire package.. and that includes the brake lines.. so I would basically pay $25 extra to buy a complete package from one shop versus piecing it together from different places. not too shabby! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooler Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 Heating a rotor in itself wont warp them. The warp comes from heating them and then holding the pad againts the rotor when you arent moving. A good example is coming down a big hill, you apply the brakes for a decent amount of time to keep from gaining too much speed. Once at the bottom, you stop at a red light and just hold the brakes. The rotor starts cooling off everywhere except where the pad is up against the rotor, that stays hotter and warps the rotor. I have always been "hard" on my brakes in all my cars and have yet to warp any rotor, stock or not. Its mostly in how you drive. ymmv Well, you aren't driving fast enough....LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Sweet.. i added everything up.. Spacers > .375" (280z hubs only) from SummitRacing.com $60.95 per pair Calipers > 1990 Toyota 4 Runner from RockAuto.com $50 each + $30 for a core Rotors > 1984 Nissan 300zx vented from RockAuto.com $30.79 each Pads > Hawk ~$120 Master Cylinder > 1981 Nissan 280zx 15/16" brake master from RockAuto.com $28.79 (without caps and reservoirs) Grand total of $371.95 plus shipping for the entire setup. Thats a $418 dollar savings! from Arizona Z car's setup. *note* I may also need to make my own brake lines.. but thats not too much *note* Seriously you can't go wrong Hey what style hawks did you get? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junglist Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 You can get the Hawk HPS' from Summit for $65.95 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HWK%2DHB315F%2D669&N=700+115&autoview=sku Is there a better track compound available by Hawk for the Toyota calipers? There has to be if VARA guys are running them. John C... any recommendations for track pads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Porterfield can machine any shape pad out of any brake pad material they sell. You want PFC 03 on front PFC 01 on back of your 4x4 front caliper and 240SX rear caliper? Just send them two sample pads or make a tracing. For a pure track only pad I'm very, very impressed with Hawk DTC70. Its expensive and doesn't last as long as others but its got amazing bite and more importantly a really nice release. They lasted for two days (12 hours solid) of track time on my 3,217 lb. (empty) 350Z with no air getting to them at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 Sweet.. i added everything up.. Spacers > .375" (280z hubs only) from SummitRacing.com $60.95 per pair Hmm, maybe I will go with the vented setup after all. Do you have a part number for those spacers? Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HLS30-08077 Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 I don't see wheel sizes here. What is the minimum size wheel that will fit over the Arizona Wilwood kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
310z Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 I don't see wheel sizes here. What is the minimum size wheel that will fit over the Arizona Wilwood kit? I know a guy that has 15 in. wheels over his AZC/Wilwoods. Each wheel would be different based on the design. My 16x8 BBS wheels did not fit over the Toyota caliper. A lot of grinding on the caliper later and 3/8 wheel spacers allowed them to fit. As for the Toyota kit, I purchased from MSA with vented slotted and cross drilled rotors all around, I have not overheated them and that is not beacuse the opertunitys have not been there. I live in the mountains (Gods country) my car does not know what a freeway looks like or much of a straight away. I feel that these brakes are a great set up for the street and you get to keep your E brake. However I would choose a pad that had more inital bite and more feeling. I think it was John C that suggested a solution above for that. Personal driving styles will also add to the decission along with finances. I could not think of doing the grinding work I did on the Toyota calipers on a set of beautiful AZC/Wilwoods to make my BBS wheels fit. Because the BBS wheels were going on the car no mater what. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 what about the cobra brake setup? It seems like a nice compromise between weight, stopping power and price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlienJedi Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 What is this cobra setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgkurz Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 I run the Toyota S12W calipers with Porterfield R4S pads. I have been surprised by their stopping ability even after an 82deg F track day at PIR with my near 3000lb 280Z. Front straight and rear straights both were both between 130 and 140mph. I still had acceptable pedal and fade after several laps. I'd love to have a setup like the Arizona Z race calipers/rotors but I'm not sure the extra braking capability would be that helpful with a car that is on the street mostly. The big calipers and rotors also may not save much weight. Just my .02C One other tidbit. I highly recommend painting your calipers with VHT brake caliper paint. I used black but there are other colors. It's looks much better behind a nice wheel vs a rusty caliper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 Well...For track and auto-X, I tried making the stock rebuilt system work, then I swapped the non-vented Toy caliper, then I moved to the vented Toyota with the large pads, then I finally went to 240SX/84ZX rears. The rear brakes made a bigger difference on track than any of the front mods. That is a damn well sorted out system. I opted for the full Willwood AZC set up for my next track car comming soon. That is one hell of a nice system for full-race, non-street-legal use. The cost is not that much higher than doing the full Toyo vented front, 240SX rear set up with all the bells and whistles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srbigbutt Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 Is it possible to install the Toyota calipers with a 12" rotor? My car is going to mostly be a street car, but damn it, I wan't it to look good. 10" Rotors look to small. especially with 17" wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 The stock rotors are 11", and so are the vented that people use with the Toyota calipers. You could do a caliper bracket like the one that comes with the Arizona Z Car brakes and then use the Toy calipers and a 12.2 x .81 rotor, but those calipers are really heavy, so if you're going to that trouble why not get some Wilwoods or similar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 I opted for the full Willwood AZC set up for my next track car comming soon. That is one hell of a nice system for full-race, non-street-legal use. The cost is not that much higher than doing the full Toyo vented front, 240SX rear set up with all the bells and whistles. Like you, I evolved into my present vented toyota with 240sx in the rears and with a better (higher friction) pad in the rear, it works very well on the street and track. But if I was to do it again, I'd wait until I could go with the wilwoods all at once. The main reason is that the vented toyota / 240sx setup inherently has too much front bias. From what I've read here, the wilwood system is far more balanced even without dual master cylinders and it appears that people can run the same pads front/rear and still adjust the prop valve to get optimum balance. That's not possible with the vented 4x4 approach, at least not on my my 73 S30. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srbigbutt Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 The stock rotors are 11", and so are the vented that people use with the Toyota calipers. You could do a caliper bracket like the one that comes with the Arizona Z Car brakes and then use the Toy calipers and a 12.2 x .81 rotor, but those calipers are really heavy, so if you're going to that trouble why not get some Wilwoods or similar? The silvermine kit lists 10.8" Front and 11.8" in the Rear. If it were reversed I think I would have already bought them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 I ran Hawk blues up front, Hawk Blacks in rear, stock 72 MC, and stock bias valve. I had great balance, with an occasional tendancy to drag an inside rear wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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