MaTTSuN Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 Well, i spent half a day trying to get all the settings right... which i tihnk i did but she still will not fire She is mighty close and kind of sputters and dies right away, also has a bit of a back fire in the exhaust sometimes when i stop cranking. I confirmed that i am 18 teeth away from TDC and used the wizard to plug in the settings Im wondering if its a coil output issue.... I am using the relay board and installed the coil drivers as per the DIY instuction... Id like to get it running but i may just part the beast out.. I know its really close and it could be one setting that im not aware of, Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 it feels close but the timing is off still my missing tooth is at tooth 18.. it farts and pops but does not run, I looked at the DIY setting and hints you guys have been giving me when through the set up a few time but still will not run and now my starter is on its last legs should i be adjusting or looking for anything in any other area? ive have been playing with the trigger angle, from 60 to what i have on the pic and the result is always about the same i also had the outputs set to trigger a,b,c but that did not seam to make a difference.. anyone want to but this set up? haha Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 You might try some starting fluid just to see how close the timing is and to check if you have a fuel problem or spark. If it runs for a few seconds at least you'll have renewed hope, although it might just be delaying the inevitable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 i have a timing light on the spark wires to make sure its getting sparks, and i smell fuel so it a timing thing but ive adjust everything i can imagine and still a no go i want to sell it as a whole car but without a working engine its not worth me putting it for sale i do have allot of great parts so parting out would be a better $$ maker... but i do want to run it one last time with 15psi and the new turbo i just put on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 I might have missed something here, but have you REALLY verified timing? Pull all the plugs, plug wires, and lay them up on the intake manifold (connected again after pulling). Either disable fuel in MS or unplug your injectors. With no compressing the starter should turn the engine over plenty fast to get a good timing reading. If you're not getting a timing reading close to what your cranking timing should be, then something is wrong with your settings that needs to be corrected. If your timing reading seems to be spot on, then check everything related to firing order first, then make sure the dwell isn't set too high for your coil. I personally suspect you either have your timing seriously off, or your coil isn't in as good of a condition as you might think. And don't sell it without getting it working. It just makes me so sad to see guys sell projects for pennies on the dollar because of a $10 fix that was just to frustrating to find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metro Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 You have it set as a 36 tooth wheel, it's 30. Wheel decoder routine should be 24s97, unless you have a reason to use v25. Set your trigger angle back to 60 and check your timing. Using the CAS bracket, I think the range of adjustment is about 20 degrees each way. So in the middle (where the line is inscribed on the back) the TA is about 60°. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 Ill try changing the wheel decoder and go back to 30-1 and 60 I have the cas in the middle of the bracket currently How about the "output pins"? should i choose coils A B and C? my ignition switch is dieing on me so i need to jump the starter to check anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metro Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 Yeah didn't even notice that, D14, D15, and D16 need to be set as spark outputs. Your current config setup is fuel only. I'll be honest with ya dude, a lot of these "problems" just seem to be a total lack of understanding how MS works. I don't want to hold your hand anymore, you need to read the manual and understand the settings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 thanks for the help up till now, i have been focusing allot on details and not on the whole picture Thanks again to everyone Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 Well I did it Its going to sound stupid but well i guess it is the trigger wheel wizard was not right. Just wanted to get htat out of the way I was programing it for 18 teeth away from TDC "which it was" but it would never start I finaly got a helper to help crank while i check #1 timing an it was not even showing I chose 25 teeth away and used those numbers then i could finaly see the TDC mark on the crank. I had to clean the plugs because they were black from miss firering but after i did that i got her to idle pretty smooth. Wide band is still not working so ill have to sort that before tuning I was a hair away from parting my car out but my brother poked his head in and started asking me questions. Another persons eyes sure helps thanks again for everyones help. This was a big upgrade for what im used to. I understand mechanical things very well but electronics gets me off my game a little. It all boiled down to basics " Timing Light" Ill be sure to post my set up and tune once i get it running well Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LanceVance Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 Glad to hear you've got it running! Sometimes all it takes is a fresh set of eyes looking over the basics; work on anything too long and you develop tunnel vision! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 Sure do and when you by a fun new car you wearblinders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HuD 91gt Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 (edited) Sorry to bump this one from the archives. I've been searching on how to use the 1981 ZXT 90 tooth wheel on a megasquirt setup using a hall sensor. I'm currently in the research phase, and have yet to actually read the entire megasquirt manual. BUT, is there is reason you can't just grind off a single tooth, rather then making it a 30-1 wheel? Will the megasquirt software not allow a 90-1? Edited September 1, 2015 by HuD 91gt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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