KROz Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 Today I purchased not only my first Zcar, but my first car ever. I thought $180 seemed a fair price for a 71, but am not entirely sure now. I would like to do a V8 swap, but I don't know if it would be worth it with this car. It's pretty rusty, haven't really gotten a good look at the frame though. Just wondering what all of you with experience in Z's have to say. Regardless, I'm definately going to work a lot on it though. Hopefully something nice will come out of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aziza z Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 Damn thats alot of rust on the outside. But for $170 its not bad. If the surface is that bad, im afraid to ask how the frame rails, floorpans, battery tray look like rust wise. Worst case scenerio, you pull a couple parts off sell them and you got your money back. As far as v8 swap, I dont think that car will be up to the task without serious, serious work if the rust has gotten to it. IMO find a 75 280z to do a v8 conversion on. I was able to pick mine up running with way less rust than that one for $300. So I would part that out and use the money for a beffier 280z for a v8. (this is all just my opinion, do what you want). Reasons to go for a 75 280z instead of a 240z for a v8 swap: -Thicker sheet metal (a little stronger than the 240z for the torque most v8s will make) -Bigger Frame rails (makes better tranny mounts instead of floor mounting) -Still smog exempt if 75 model -Early model will still resemble 240z (tank size, low trunk etc etc) -A little more developed than the 240z (electictical system, heater/ac work better, comes with rear sway bar, fumes not as bad) -Already has the r200 and beefier stub axles Thats what I think anyway. Either way, welcome to hybridz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 Looks mostly like surface rust that could be easily fixed with a wire wheel, but I can't really tell from the pics how bad it is. The roll pan looks to be made entirely out of bondo though - that can't be good. I agree with aziza z that a 280z is a better candidate for a V8 swap than a 240z for the same reasons - however, TONS of people have put the V8 in a 240z without problems. Just stiffen up the chassis a bit if you do, and you should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadianz Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 I would suggest finding a zed that won't take so much time on the body work. To be honest its more more fun to work on the swap then to be using a wire wheel and a sanding block for weeks at a time. Save your money and time and part it out. It all depends on how much you value your time, the car looks fixable but it will need alot of hours thrown at it. I went through this whole route with my 240z ... just my 2 cents worth ... Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KROz Posted June 17, 2009 Author Share Posted June 17, 2009 Ah! Thanks everyone for the posts! Yes, the car is going to be getting wire and wheel. A whole lot of wire and wheel. The rust on the drivers side front quarter panel is luckily not all the way through and i sanded some down and got some primer on it. On the passengers side the dumbass who worked on it before was smart enough to put some primer on it so no rust there. The only place where it has rusted out seems to be the drivers side rear fender, which will be covered by a flair hopefully. That bondo job is terrible as well, and i sanded some of it down and it looks a little better. It's going to be a long project, maybe not a V8 project, but that will be decided when i take it all apart and get a good look at the frame. If i do decide to do the V8 I'll get a cage or something in there as well so it wont snap in half. I also have the bumpers which i will probably be selling if anyone is interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Zowner Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 is the red interior panel on the drivers side rear panel any good?? I know a guy in Milwaukee that is looking for a good one for his interior...I have all the panels in back in black if you are interested... my email is buyaz2@hotmail.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phlebmaster Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 Enjoy that car...these are always projects, unless you buy someone elses complete project. lol Keep us posted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
two40zjunky Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 WOW!! that is pretty cool for under $200.00 bucks. I would keep any part that doesn't fall apart when you pull it off the car. Will it turn over? is there even a motor in the engine bay? take everything!!!! the ignition the shift knob the steering wheel steering rack, the pedal assembly. either way you go with it just have fun with it... Ronnie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 looks like a lot of work but thats what a project is right....hope you keep us updated... im also looking to buy a z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 Hey yeah that'll be a project... It looks to me like it was someone's unfinished project which they left out in the rain. All that body needs is to be brushed down, or you can buy those little flapper sanding discs and use those. both will work. it's best to do it all at once and talk to whoever is going to paint it for you to see what kind of primer to use. So get some friends over, and some good dust masks, and goggles of course. and get it all sanded down then primer it, from there you'll have a better idea what you're looking at. $180 is cheap. Tho you should look in all the usual places for rust (search on here) so you'll know where it hides. If you need parts there's dozens of us that have parts cars so just ask. Also Ebay is your friend... Read read read on here, all the stickies and ideas for your Z. Lastly, post up lots of pictures! we love to see builds, and can give you pointers if you show us what you're doing. (I might be interrested in your bumpers PM me ) Phar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 true that bump for some pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HIWAY ONE Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 Congrats on your first z purchase. I'd suggest getting the mechanicals in tip top shape for starters - brakes, steering, suspension, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KROz Posted June 22, 2009 Author Share Posted June 22, 2009 Well, so far nothing cosmetic has been done. I took the seats out today. I need to get new floor panels if anyone has any. I'm looking into getting this http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD& Product_Code=50-1500 body kit if anyone knows about MSA or the quality of their parts. I don't want to do flairs, but if i use this body kit i think i'll need some new rear quarter panels as well if anyone has any available. But mostly i need to know where to get the floor panels. Thanks for all the posts everyone! Hybridz is definitely the best z community around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 Well, Not bad. I'd recommend you get all your bodywork out of the way before working on a kit and paint. There's nothing like buying parts then deciding to go a different direction. How're your welding skills? Replacing body panels certainly can be done, but the welding is harder than it looks. Read up on how to do it, it'll save you a bit of hassle. You might be able to get new floor panels from Tabco, or maybe just make your own. Depends on how bad your pans are. Post us some picts and we'll see.. Phar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetleaf Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 Nice car for the price. The money parts is definately there. If you're sure you want to keep this one, instead of looking for a cleaner car. I would recommend , Stripping the whole car first. Make sur to get all that bondo off also. Easyest would be take all the parts off and send it to a blaster. Welcome and good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KROz Posted June 23, 2009 Author Share Posted June 23, 2009 Well here are a bunch of pictures for you all. Rust on drivers side.(bad) Under seat. Under feet. Passenger Side Under seat. Under Feet. Passenger Seat(I'm going to look around for some seats out of a later gen camaro to replace them.) And Drivers The battery mount. Not as rusty as it looks. There is a piece of cloth on it. Looked closely and its some old hanes underwear. I'm kind of scared to move it though. The headlight area is pretty rusty, doesn't seem too bad though. Here is the fiberglass one for the passenger side too. I have no idea what they were thinking when they were fixing this. The left and right tail lights. Door panels, definitely salvageable. Window trim and wipers. Radiator Fan from a wrecked sable, may come in handy later on. Original bumper part thing in Nissan wrapper. Found it in the car. Tail light housing, broken. As is most of the plastic back there. Spare tire area looks brand new! Broken cooling fluid hose. Needs to be replaced. Theres the carbs. I'm not sure if the left one is working. Worst rust is right here on the rear drivers quarter panel. Alright thats it for now. You asked for pictures, I gave you PICTURES. Thats about a summary of the car as it is. If you have ANY offers on any parts give me a PM. If the total I could make is over 600 then i'll tear it apart and start selling parts. If not, then i guess I'm stuck with it. I found a decient 73 I would like to buy if i can make enough with this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Well here are a bunch of pictures for you all. Rust on drivers side.(bad) Under seat.Under feet. Passenger Side Under seat.Under Feet. Ouch, yeah you'd definitely need new floor pans and rails. MSA has a kit for ~$350. See all those holes, you can bet the metal is just tin foil there. Being that the rest of your Z doesn't have much rust (engine bay, battery, and rear) I would expect the damage is from leaking cowl area seal. You would need to cut out and weld in the new frame rail and floorpans. that is unless you're a really big Flintstones fan. Passenger Seat(I'm going to look around for some seats out of a later gen camaro to replace them.) And Drivers The battery mount. Not as rusty as it looks. There is a piece of cloth on it. Looked closely and its some old hanes underwear. I'm kind of scared to move it though. hehe got tongs? You might look on here for the list of seats that will fit, the RX8 seats look awesome. The headlight area is pretty rusty, doesn't seem too bad though. Here is the fiberglass one for the passenger side too. I have no idea what they were thinking when they were fixing this. Yeah, just replace them, you can get some off Ebay for like 10-15 bucks each, if not cheaper at a JY. The left and right tail lights. Lights looks fine, but that bondo will all have to be sanded off and redone to shave that rear. If they'd primered before letting it sit in the rain it might not be an issue, but I wouldn't trust it with the exterior rust.. The rear deck looks nice, no rust that's a +! Door panels, definitely salvageable. Window trim and wipers. Radiator Fan from a wrecked sable, may come in handy later on. Original bumper part thing in Nissan wrapper. Found it in the car. Tail light housing, broken. As is most of the plastic back there. Spare tire area looks brand new! Broken cooling fluid hose. Needs to be replaced. Theres the carbs. I'm not sure if the left one is working. Yeah cooling hose is the heater pipe, hose = $5 at Autozone. Carbs are the SU carbs, they're the better kind that people like. might need to rebuild them, easy to do, tho messy since they're filled with oil. Worst rust is right here on the rear drivers quarter panel. Alright thats it for now. You asked for pictures, I gave you PICTURES. Thats about a summary of the car as it is. If you have ANY offers on any parts give me a PM. If the total I could make is over 600 then i'll tear it apart and start selling parts. If not, then i guess I'm stuck with it. I found a decient 73 I would like to buy if i can make enough with this one. Okay, that rear fender is the hardest part of the fix, you'd need to get a replacement panel, and weld that in. hopefully the rust isnt too bad underneath, MSA sells the outter panel for $75, and the inner for $100, if you need it. If you've got a line on a much better condition Z for $600, I'd definitely recommend you start with a more solid body. This one can be fixed, it would take time, skill and $. Fixing classics is NOT a cheap endeavor, nor is it fast. It's a labor of love. If you save one like you have, you'll be proud of the accomplishment, not to mention the investment of money sweat and blood you'll put into it. Trust me, you will bleed fixing cars, everyone does. If you decide to part it, the most valueable parts will be things like your dash, carbs, lights and interior panels, tho those all together, you might be lucky to get $600 for. If you keep it, you can get a lot of parts on here and on Ebay. Thats my 2 cents. it's up to you to decide how much work you'll want to do. Phar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KROz Posted June 27, 2009 Author Share Posted June 27, 2009 Well the dude with the other z sold it so getting that one is out of the picture. I'm going to stick with this one. My dad told me he'll cover everything (he was also drunk though) so if that's the case, i should be good to go. I'll definitely be getting the floor pans from MSA. I'm going to put flairs on so hopefully that will get that rust out of the picture. The bondo on the car didnt have any primer on it prior to me getting the car. I just put it on there to make it look a little better. To say the least, there is a lot of things to be done. I just don't really know where to start. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megatherion Posted June 27, 2009 Share Posted June 27, 2009 nice project for a rat rod Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted June 29, 2009 Share Posted June 29, 2009 Okay, well for a place to start, You'll also need to get a better look at your frame rails. MSA sells the whole rails too, for a few hundred. that'll tell you what floor kit to buy. Getting a handle on the rust is a good idea. That fender w/ the holes in it should be one of your first ideas, probably before you even cut out your floors. (not that your floors shouldn't be a priority.) just for the idea that you'll get getting used to welding on the body, and how thin the metal is. Even if you're putting on flares, you'll want to get in there and get rid of the rust or it'll come back like Jason in Friday the 13th. once you know where your rust is, then get in there w/ the wire wheel and the primer/sealer. you can hit your whole body and get it under control. You'll need to sand back that bondo on the rear and see if it's got rust underneath, and of course how thick they put it on. it realy looks like they were trying to shave the rear that way. so depending on the quality of the stuff they used, it might not have rust under it. You might want to use those flapper pad disks instead of a wire wheel. they've got less chance to score the metal. If you're going to use a body shop to paint the car later, you might ask them what they'd prefer you used. That's a good start anyway. in the meantime too, you might want to get what you've got, running, unless you've got an engine ready to drop in. I assume you know how to weld since swaps usually require it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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