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New LS1 Build Planning stage...


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So I have a buddy with a 99 camaro, and another buddy who races T1 C5 corvettes in SCCA. Joe, the T1 racer swaps his motors out regularly and Eric had stripped a bolt on a head, then drove on the track on it, not knowing the head bolt had stripped. Joe needed to sell a motor, Eric needed a motor, and I needed a few headaches along the way...:lmao:

 

So A week ago Friday I dragged my car trailer to Winchester, grabbed the Camaro and unloaded it in my shop. I'd already had the motor delivered a few months back, and was ready to get it and the obnoxiously large crate it was in out of the shop... So Sunday my wife leaves for Boston for a week and Eric and I start pulling motor/tranny/driveline... After much swapping of parts from his block to the Z06 motor, and fussing, a little cussing, the car was started for the first time in 3 years yesterday... Eric has long tube headers, and 3 inch exhausts and that Z06 motor BOOMES...

 

Anyway, as we were settling up on parts/chemicals, eric said you want to buy the motor don't you (meaning his old LS1) and I said "how much"? It's got 5.3L ported heads, 1.8 roller rockers, hardened push rods, an aftermarket cam I'll have to get the specs on... and needs a complete rebuild... So now the "project" begins... Kinda funny that before I get the Datsun complete, I already have another motor in the wings, preparing to build it for the Z... I'm planning a dry sump setup very similar to Mark Icard's, and I'm undecided about intake/fuel as of yet...

 

So, clean sheet of paper here, what would you guys start with? I plan to replace the pistons and rods with something forged. The LS1 rod bolt issue left my corvette with a window'ed block in 2005, so the OEM rods are out of the question... I'm all ears... I'll get the specs on the cam, and we can plan accordingly for the proper induction... I'll need to research header options for the Z as well...

 

Gonna be fun!!!

 

Mike

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YEAH! :2thumbs:

 

Induction is tough one for these engines. For a dedicated track car, seems to be 3 schools and all 3 work AWESOME!

 

1) Single 4bbl carb!

2) OE style EFI, such as the FAST manifold, (light weight)

3) ITB.

 

Personally, the ITB route brings so much exoticness to the table visually and aurally!

 

 

132894d1211493653-nice-intake-manifold-itb-thread-itb3.jpg

 

132895d1211494067-nice-intake-manifold-itb-thread-itb4.jpg

 

main.jpg

 

crossram3.jpg

 

malitude_20487_1__a5ao.jpg

 

lsx_06.jpg

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The ITBs are HOT looking... def. want to go with FI... I've already got the 383 stroker carbed, and although I haven't driven it yet with the 750Dp on it, starting Eric's car up yesterday and watching it idle without having to fiddle with mixture screws or idle/bleed/bowl issues was just soooooooo nice!

 

Mike

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Although the ITB's are nice eye candy, they are also uber pricey. Plus I've heard from folks that have them say that they aren't so nice under 3000 RPM and cold mornings. If it were me, I'd stick with the factory style induction with a LS6 intake.

 

How much power are do you want to make? How high do you want to spin it? Any forced induction planned?

 

Just a 'bar napkin' build using some of what you already have, I'd keep the ported 5.3 heads after a 5 angle valve job, bore the LS1 block just enough to clean it up (i.e. 0.010"), get the deck squared, line honing the mains wouldn't be a bad idea either, buy a set forged pistons (Diamond, JE/SRP, CP, etc) that'll give you at least 10:1, if not 11:1 compression, and SCAT makes a nice set of 4340 I-Beams with ARP 8740 7/16" cap-screws for under $300. Your stock crank is good to 800+HP. If you want to make your LS1 into a 383, a 4.00" SCAT stroker crank will make that easy for under $700. As far as your cam, I'd go with the Lunati Voodoo 60511 (.567/.567", 222/228 dur@0.050", 113 LSA) with the stock 3.62" stroke and the 60512 (.599/.601", 232/238 dur@0.050", 113 LSA) if you went with the 4.00" stroker crank. Also, ARP main and head bolts are nice piece of mind in a performance engine, plus the ARP head bolts are reusable, stock TTY bolts are not.

 

Stock stroke will make an easy 375HP to the wheels, a stroker will only add to that making more HP/TQ everywhere.

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OK, Er' um, this ain't my first (or second) LS1 build. Along with the ARP studs/bolts for the heads/main/rods, I'll be using the re-usable ARP CRANK bolt and their Flywheel bolts...

 

The motor will be used for road race related activities only, and I have zero interest in a forced induction on this motor.

 

Keep the ideas coming gang!

 

Mike

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I was told today that the cam is a competition cams 217/220 cam. I've got the hardened pushrods, and the 1.8 roller rockers to go with it, along with some good roller lifters.

 

Thoughts?

Mike

From what I've read and such that is a baby cam for an LS1, most people give me a hard time for my 224/224 .567/.567 on 114 LSA as they call it small.

If its out anyway I'd drop a different cam in, but thats me.

I guess it depends on power goals and such though.

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I'm running a TR230 and so far have dyno'd 408 at the wheels. I've been told I can get more power with a 228. It seems these motors really respond well to lots of lift. Duration over 228 doesn't seems to make much difference. Mine is actually a split profile and the exact numbers escape me right now. If anyone is interested, a simple Google search for Thunder Racing TR230 should give you the specs.

 

Joe

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