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Spark Plug Wires


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I haven't had much luck with the search on spark plug wires to use with the JTR Sanderson's on the LS1 engine. As noted on some older links a few spark plug holes are very tight. I tried to use the existing OEM wires with the heat shields and forget it. Has anybody used the MSD Ignition wires 32819's? One is suppose to be able to bend the spark plug boot to keep it away from touching headers but you know how that goes! Sounds too good and we all know the old saying.

 

Any input would be great.

 

Thanks,

Danno74Z

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I hear ya! I went with a set of Magnacore wires and one just sits on one tube and another is REALLY close. The rest are fine and these wires have a 45 degree boot. Word is that the LS2 wires are supposed to do the trick, but I hate to get another set of wires and I can't use the $100 set I have. They should have made the headers so that isn't a problem. Surprised that more haven't said they have an issue.

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Hi Gary,

 

Hey thanks for writing back. You know with all the people buy these headers from JTR/sanderson you would of thought they could have modified the jig that they build the headers on. I am sure you and I aren't the only ones having this issue. What really chaps my butt is the headers cost $495 and one can't use a spark plug socket on 2 cylinders. If you try you will either crack the spark plug or scrape up the header. I had to make a custom tool for this! (By the way I can let you know how to do this if you want) Also on the drivers side you have to cut off a chunk of the engine block boss to make the header fit. Again, after about 25-50 sets JTR or Sanderson could tweak the headers for future people buying them - SORRY FOR THE RANT

 

Gary - when you say the LS2 wires do you mean to get the ones for the later GTO's?

 

Thanks,

Danno74Z

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I had this same concern with mine. I ended up using the stock f-body wires. Yes the outer metal shield touches the headers but I am using the ceramic coated headers and the wire have held up fine. One wire on the passenger side was touching rubber to header so I wrapped it in the metalic tape that originally wrapped around the f-body fuel lines. I didn't think this would work at all but several thousand street miles and several hundred race miles and they are still fine.

 

Cameron

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I have the Taylor 84644 spark plug wires, and #1 and #7 header touches the spark plug boot. Though the JTR headers are ceramic coated, were the header touches the boot I put header wrap at the spot. The passenger side have no problems at all. I will see in the coming days if it is a problem.

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Now that's interesting! I have the Magnecor KV85 (8.5mm for LS1/LS6 and the version for headers with the 45 degree boots) and the boots touch on #3 and #5 (maybe 1mm gap on #5). How does your boot hit anything on #1 cylinder, anyway? I have not clearance issues at all on the passenger side. There has got to be an answer besides having to put tape around a boot or wrapping a header tube due to this issue.

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Gary,

 

I checked my clearances and #3 has moderate interference and #5 is the worst on the driver's side. On the passenger side #6 could be also have moderate interference. All I know is when I take the OEM metal sleeves off the wires and try to put the the wire on the plugs the silicone/rubber boot makes contact with the header. These are straight OEM boots. I think with 45 degree boots #3 and #6 will clear (not by much) #5 will touch no matter what. Perhaps I got a sh** driver's side header from the get go even worse then most. All I know is when I look straight down the #5 spark plug hole the edge of the primary tube just crosses the edge of the spark plug porcelain. There is no way yo fit a straight boot on that puppy.

 

Danno74Z

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I'm still amazed that these headers will built with this being an issue!! Did they even put spark plug wires on when routing the tubes? If there is one single answer to this issue, then nobody seems to know about it. I know you can wrap the header or the boot, but why should we even have to do that and it'll be ugly. (I know some don't care about that so much, but I certainly do on my car!) Things that make you go hmmmmm! :)

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Savage42

 

Boy that is a great question! I called Sanderson about these headers and I have to tell you it was like I was talking to Headman or Hooker! We know nothing about them. When I asked it I could get a "new" driver's side header they said I would have to go through JTR. Well, I bought these headers over 6 months ago and I'm sure they won't take them back now.

 

I believe with a little more time routing the tubes these would have been fine. Sanderson said their standard size LS1 header primary tube is 1.5" not 1.75" so with the tubes being a larger diameter in the same jig you get interference.

 

What is really weird is if you email Sanderson your responses come from a guy on the east coast but if you call Sanderson you talk to Donna in CA - go figure. When I asked about the header I was told "we don't make 1.75" primary tube LS1 headers as standard only 1.5" but the web site said talk to Jay for other sizes. It was like I was in the Twilight Zone.

 

Danno74Z

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Well, there is no doubt that the JCI headers have much better clearance in regards to plugs & wires, but most have gone with the larger diameter JTR headers for increased performance. So, I guess it comes down to what sacrifice you want to make.....fit & finish vs added horsepower. Shouldn't need to "sacrifice" with the JTR setup, but I guess that's the way it is. As long as the plug wires didn't hit, I could live with having to pull the headers to change plugs since it'll only need to be done every decade or so. :)

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I am running the Sanderson 1.75" coated headers on mine with the MSD plug wires. Only one wire contacts the header tube. (others are close but not touching) You can see it in the pics below. I put a piece of heat shield between the tube and the wire and have been driving it like that for 4 plus years (12000 miles) with zero issues. It has seen 7 track days, several road trips and lots of weekend cruising.

 

I just went out and took the pics and inspected the wires and the one that hits the tube does not show any signs of break down from heat. It looks the same as all of the other wires.

 

I have not had to change the plus but with factory recommended changes at 50K miles, I will not mind pulling the headers to change them.

 

LS1_Plug_Wires_001.jpg

Drivers side

 

LS1_Plug_Wires_002.jpg

Drivers side

 

LS1_Plug_Wires_003.jpg

Passenger side

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