Jump to content

S30 Roll Cage Examples

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
Hey guys...the nhra style..ie.. Jegs etc. have a main hoop and also a roof hoop. The down bars meeting this roof hoop at the windshield post...Do the forward down tubes need to start at the main hoop?


The halo needs two bars connecting the front of the halo at the top of the windshield pillars to fallow the pillar down and connected to the floor/frame.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...

Just in general seems like people really want to bend tubes where they don't need to be bent. A lot of the bends in these rear supports and door bars are just not necessary. A straight tube is stiffer than a bent one. Keep it straight whenever possible (except for door bars which should protrude into the door cavity for max protection).


Where multiple tubes have to hit in the same area it's best to connect them. So to have that X and then connect the backstays to the top of the hoop doesn't make a lot of sense. Much better to either move the X so it hits the backstays, or since you already have problems with the backstays, move them to hit the top of the X if that X is legal. Not sure on that one... Connecting multiple tubes to a "node" makes the cage stronger and more rigid and allows loads to path directly from one bar to another instead of having to travel down the connection between two separate tubes that aren't connected at a node.

Link to post
Share on other sites

ITs not an s30 but it is the same cage copied from an s30 (allot of tubes are the same, apart from teh front legs, the front wiendshield rake is teh same as a 911 ;)




I dont know if these pass tech for SCCA or NASA But i guess John can pitch in on that.

Apart from that i have seen a topic like this before with some really good examples ill lik those below.

Note that before you build your cage that for some classes they update the rules frequently. So you best off to buy the rule book or call a competent builder.

And if you really insist of welding yourself, get it checked out before putting it on the track!

For rule changes see this for example http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/91482-scca-cage-rule-update/page__p__866576__hl__roll%20cage__fromsearch__1entry866576

I know builders in Europe have to proof the pentration of the material etc etc to get a cage pass. A bad weld will more likely harm you than safe you.




Now imagine a weld coming loos and a sharp piece of tube swinging at the driver!!!


If it is mainly a street car more than a hoop or a NHRA 6 point would not be advized as id will harm you more than do you good without a helmet (ever had a baseball bet swung at you by major leage player ?) the area it concentrates on is much smaller than it would be without a cage..


anyhow on the fun stuff:





Edited by frank280zx
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

Frank, I don't believe the cage would pass tech in SCCA and possibly NASA. The diagonals within the main hoop don't meet criteria. I'm not saying that I believe its inferior it doesn't meet the rules.

From the SCCA GCR:

Main hoops shall incorporate a diagonal brace. The brace shall either be in the plane of the main hoop, or extend from the top of one rear brace (described in 9.4.B.2.c) to the bottom of the opposite rear brace. Automobiles with mid mounted engines can have the lower mounting point attach to the frame of the automobile within six inches of the main hoop. In the case of braces in the plane of the main hoop, the brace must span at least 50% of the width of the main hoop, and at least 75% of the height of the main hoop.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 8 months later...

I did some mods to my 20 year old roll cage yesterday (Happy Canada Day!!!) and thought I would share them. I basically cut off everything back of the main hoop and replaced it.




We removed the curved rear stays that went to the plate you can see on the floor, put some 3/16" plate on and around the strut towers, new rear stays, cross brace, and increased the size of the strut tower bar to match the rest of the cage. I am not a fan of the angle the belts need to go to get to the strut tower, I may think of adding a harness bar later (had to cut out the old one that was on the old rear stays).


One thing that I am actually struggling with is fastening the window net. The way it was fastened before was a little hokey. It was attached at the top, and at the bottom, old seatbelt was sewn to the net, and clipped to the other half of the seatbelt slung around the cage. There really was nothing wrong with that per se, but I didn't like having to flip the net and this seatbelt clip onto the roof to get out. The roll cage is really close to the bodywork there and every time I come up with a plan, it puts the top of the net right in my eye line and too low for comfort. A different form of clip or buckle might even do wonders. I have old harnesses around, see if those might have something that will work. If anyone is still reading this, it would be nice to see detailed pics of how yours clips in and out.


Another pic because I thought the lighting was cool.



Edited by wondersparrow
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Create New...