BluDestiny Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 Hey everyone, My winter project is to put a L28 flat-top with a E88 head into my 260. I'm going to be getting a lot of machine work done to the head and the block needs some love too since their is rust(it still feels smooth though) in the cylinders. Anyway the plan for the block is: New rod bearings New journal bearings New piston rings New timing kit ARP head studs ARP rod bolts Turbo oil pump(since the short block didnt come with an oil pump) new water pump ( didn't come with that either) New gaskets(oil pan, timing cover, waterpump possibly a hone and a jet-tank to clean it off. plus assembly at the shop For the head: port/polish port matching larger valves hardened seats Isky stage III cam Isky springs +lashpads, rockers...whatever else i need I'm going to be running Triple webber DCOE 40's and a 6-1 ex headers. Is their anything I'm missing that should be replaced? and should I have the block pressure tested and the crank balanced? Also should I upgrade the clutch/flywheel while it's out? I was thinking a lightened turbo flywheel and a stage 2 Zoom clutch Should be getting a little more kick outta this engine compared to the stock L26. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theghosttanker Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 It sounds like you have all the bases covered. Pressure testing the block would probably be a waste of time/money unless you suspect that it's really been traumatized in the past. As long as you are using the same pistons, rods, and crank, you shouldn't need to rebalance anything.I run a lightened turbo flywheel with a stock Exedy clutch and I don't see any reason for you to run anything more expensive than that with your setup. Have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHO-Z Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 I might be wrong on this. I read some where that the turbo oil pump will not work with the NA distributors. You have to use a turbo distributor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260zShooter Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 I might be wrong on this. I read some where that the turbo oil pump will not work with the NA distributors. You have to use a turbo distributor. Not true. A Turbo oil pump will work on a non turbo car. Its a straight up bolt on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dayz Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 Confirmed, I run a Turbo Automatic Oil pump with an NA distributor from a 280zx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowCarbZ Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 I have a similar setup in my 260 and i'm happy with it. It has the triple 40's, cam and such. I plan to upgrade the clutch/flywheel and do some more extensive head work in the future. For street use it's fairly fast. I just plan to take one of my spare heads and do a bunch of work on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon 74 260Z Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 I did a similar build with my 260. If you're now running a stock L26, you'll notice a big change and be happy with the results... for a while. There is always someone with a faster car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted November 25, 2009 Author Share Posted November 25, 2009 Thanks for the input guys. I've been assembling these parts for about 4 months and I'm finally going to have some free time and spare money to drop all the parts off. I'll let you guys know the results. I'm trying to find a place to dyno my car for before and after results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 you pretty much got it. Just remember to punch or number the main bearing caps, rods, cam tower caps. Then check tolerances with plastigauge. dont forget coreplugs. Good idea on the 2+2/turbo flywheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted November 26, 2009 Author Share Posted November 26, 2009 I think I did forget something, although I'm not sure it will be so much of a problem. Will i be able to run the stock 50am alternator? and the same goes for the distrubuter. If i can't run the alternater I can do the 60amp upgrade, and if I can't run the distributor I'll probably try the GM HEI upgrade. Any nay-sayers? I would like to run the stock stuff though since it will save me some money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theghosttanker Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 Your existing alternator and distributor will bolt right on to your new motor. There's no problem with using your stock alternator but if I were you I would use a more modern electronic distributor rather than a stock 260 dizzy which has points.There are several different ways to easily accomplish this. Pertronix makes an upgrade kit that replaces the points with solid-state parts.Or,you can use an electronic distributor from any later l-6 motor (from 76 on). These dizzies are used with a high voltage coil and produce a much more powerful spark than the stock 260, even if you use a pertronix. Early electronic dizzies had the ignition module separate from the dizzy (mounted on the firewall) while later models had the module attached directly to the side of the dizzy.The easiest upgrade is to use one of these later dizzies; you also need to use a matching coil, and matching plugs and gaps.If you can find a good condition dizzy (no slop or side play in the shaft, and the advance mechanism is working smoothly) then use it. The modules are getting hard to find and if your dizzy doesn't have one you can substitute a GM module; this is a substitute, not an upgrade.It will work with either the early or late electronic dizzies.Note that most people using triple carbs do not use the vacuum advance mechanism, although the mechanical advance is still used. Read this article. It is written for the l-4-Datsun 510 but it works exactly the same with l-6 motors. http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_hei.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HB280ZT Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 I can think of one more item that I would do if I was rebuilding everything. How about having the rotating mass balanced and blueprinted? HB280ZT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 I'm going to be running Triple webber DCOE 40's and a 6-1 ex headers. 44s would be better for power and performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted November 27, 2009 Author Share Posted November 27, 2009 44s would be better for power and performance. I would, but the 40's only cost me $500. I can't find a set of 44's within reasonable price, and to upgrade would cost more than I paid for the webers anyway. Unless anyone wants to trade Mikuni 44's for my weber 40's with some cash on top I'm pretty much stuck with the webers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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