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Just finished s13 coilovers into s30


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I don't have much time tonight to do a little writeup tonight but I got done adjusting my ride height, here's a couple pics in the meantime. I'll get together a post later tonight maybe or tomorrow.

 

Fronts are a couple inches above max low, and rears are few inches above max low:

 

Tires are 225/50/15

 

DSC00565.jpg

 

DSC00563.jpg

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Wow, looks great.

 

Off topic, but what is the specs on you rims, i.e. offset/width?

 

Also, hows the ride quality? Those coilovers prolly have some high spring rates.

 

I am thinking cheap ebay coilovers and replacing the springs for a more streetable set-up.

 

Also, where did you find the extra front lower mounts used for the rear?

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This is pretty cool, I am very interested to see the pictures of the installation.

 

I assume this would only be that easy for 240z struts since theyre OD is just a hair over 2". I believe the later 260 and 280z strut tubes were bigger, so the tube would have to be thinned down some before you could press fit anything onto it.

 

i was just about to attempt something like this... i was thinking of welding on the serialnine weld on strut tubes and then just threading on a set of coilovers, but those things are expensive ($260/pair).

 

http://www.serialnine.com/index.php?cPath=104

 

your way is MUCH cheaper. lol. good thing i don't have to be the guinea pig. lol.

I like this idea - basically using an adapter to set the strut tube to a common threaded size. It would give the user some flexibility in choosing which brand of coilover you want as well.. but the parts linked there a bit expensive. I may have to draw something up and see what a local machine shop will charge for making a similar part. I'm curious what is the common size and pitch for the threaded coilover tubes?
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:worthless:

 

This looks like an awesome alternative to the other coilover options that are currently available, but I need to see pictures of them installed and if you noticed any other problems with them yet.

 

I was going to order my new struts/springs soon and this thread just put a hold on that seeing as these S13 coilovers look like a much better route.

 

Please post pictures soon :mrgreen:.

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Sorry for the wait, I've been pretty busy.

Since I don't have many pictures during the install, I'll try to describe it as best I can... I'll be using some photos from the racinjitter's SERIAL9 install found http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/2/2006740, since I don't have photos to illustrate some things.

 

This install is very similar to the Arizona Z car coilover install found here:

http://www.arizonazcar.com/coilover.html

 

Some thoughts first:

I originally used DC2 Integra coilovers, but they dumped the car undriveably low. If you do some research and measurements, you won't need to use s13 coilovers. As long as the perches are 2" ID, you can use them. I thought about using the serial9 perches, but they are just ridiculously expensive.

 

I apologize for the crappy write up, but I didn't think to take pictures. BUT, it's very straightforward and if you can use you head you'll figure it out.

 

(NOTE: when I say "perches", I am referring to the sleeve perches on the coilovers, NOT the ground-control type ring perch).

 

What you'll need:

4x s13 coilovers with 2" ID on the lower sleeve perches, I used EMUSA coilovers

2x extra front perches, since the rears of the s13 coils are most likely going to be aluminum, and you need steel perches.

 

These are teh exact coilovers I bought:

DSC03898.jpg

 

 

"Special" Tools:

Sawzall or sawing tool

Dremel or similar tool

Access to hydraulic press

Access to welder (optional)

 

That's it!

 

Process:

 

1. Prep the coilovers you just bought:

- Remove lower perches

- Toss out rear perches, you won't need them since you have 4 fronts.

- You can choose to cut off the s13 mounting brackets, but you don't have to. They don't get in the way on the Z.

- Measure how much smooth tubing is inside the perches, from the bottom, before the threads start. This is how much of the Z strut tube you'll want to keep when chopping the Z struts.

- Cut a notch in 2 of the perches, to accommodate the notch on the spindle that prevents the perch from sitting flush on the hub spindle.

- Remove top hats, you won't need them

- Re-use the top washer and one of the bushings from the top hats, and install as shown:

 

DSC00559.jpg

 

Done!

 

2. Dissassemble your strut/hut assemblies. Disassemble top hats.

 

3. Chop off your Z struts, keeping 1-2" of strut tube left depending on your previous measurements of the coilover perches.

 

4. PRESS on 4 front perches onto the remaining section of tube. This will be a VERY tight fit, so you'll need a press. Press it on all the way.

 

Serial 9 perch being pressed on, press on all the way to the base of the spindle:

 

DSC00720.jpg

 

5. After pressing, you can choose to weld the connection if you want. I don't think you have to, since it's a very tight fit and should hold with the weight of the car.

 

6. Thread on coilover bodies onto the perches.

 

7. Grind out the notch in the Z top hats where the shock passes through. You'll see it. Grind it so that the coilovers can pass through.

 

8. Slide top hats on.

 

9. Re-use the coilover top nuts

 

10. Re-assemble everything.

 

11. Zip-tie brake lines onto coilover body (ghetto but it works for me)

 

12. Set ride height and preload.

 

Some of my photos:

NOTE: These pictures are when I DIDNT weld or press on the perches all the way yet. These were just test fits! The weld-looking stuff in the pictures is just goop!

 

NOTE2: The base of my perches have black spray paint on them

 

DSC00560.jpg

 

DSC00562.jpg

 

DSC00553.jpg

 

DSC00554.jpg

 

DSC00552.jpg

 

 

The ride isn't terribly bad. You can use softer springs if you want more comfort. Just press on the perches to 1-2" of strut tube, and press them on all the way to the base of the spindle, and weld.

For anyone who says this install looks ghetto, you can do a much cleaner job if you spend a bit more time on it and pretty it up. It's very simple. It's not much different from sectioning struts, except this time you're cutting most of the strut off and pressing on the s13 coilovers.

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5. After pressing, you can choose to weld the connection if you want. I don't think you have to, since it's a very tight fit and should hold with the weight of the car.

 

You MUST weld this connection! If your parts are not welded together DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR until you take the parts off and get them properly welded.

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If anyone is going to do this, PLEASE do a full write up. I basically understood everything he was saying, but I would feel much better seeing a step by step.

 

This sounds like a GREAT alternative, and am looking forward to maybe trying my hand at this. I am also keeping an eye on that Fortune Automotive option as well.

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Thanks for the write up, that looks like it works pretty well for you. Though I definitely agree with John about welding the strut tube to the sleeve.

 

I'm still wondering if it would be possible to get something like this to work on the thicker 280z strut tubes. Obviously press fitting is out of the question.

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