Orangy Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 Hows it goin everyone? I'm trying to rebuild the engine in my '77 but I would like some advice for dropping the crank. I have everything out/off the block with the exception of the crank, front cover, crank pulley, and tranny(I'll be dropping it this weekend), and oil pump. What would be the best way to get the pulley/timing cover/oil pump out? I have some basic knowledge on how to tear down an engine(I go to UTI in Rancho Cucamonga, CA and we worked on some Chevy 350s) but this will be the first L-series I've touched. Also, once I have the crank out would the block be too heavy for me and one of my friends to lift out of the car without using an engine hoist? I know thats a stupid question, but I'm pretty broke right now and I don't think I could fit a 1000 lbs hoist from UTI in the back of my mom's 02 Lancer(yeah, 18 and still living at home while I go to UTI) if they would even let me borrow one. I appreciate any and all helpful feedback. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theghosttanker Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 You just start taking it apart; the crank is about the last thing you'll get out. You have to take off the front cover, the rear main is held in with two bolts, and of course all the bearing caps and rod bolts. I can pick up and carry a bare block by myself, but to get it a long way I put it in a wheelbarrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtsnlvrs Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 Ummmm, the crank aint coming out while the block is in the car...you need to remove the engine first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAG58 Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 (edited) Ummmm, the crank aint coming out while the block is in the car...you need to remove the engine first Well... I mean you can... Here are your options. 1. Remove the motor. Everything is easy to get to and you're finished with endlessly craning over the fenders to take stuff off. 2. Leave block in car. Remove the front cross member, front swaybar, and all that jazz. Use engine hoist to hold up motor since you for some reason want the block still in the car (but you just unbolted the engine mounts). Remove transmission so you can get the crank out. Now that the only thing sitting in the bay is the block it self supported by the engine hoist, you can climb under the car in a cramped environment and gingerly drop a 30+lb crank on yourself. FWIW, I always chose option 1. Once you've chosen your method of operation, everything has to come off that wraps around the crank. Bearings 4 and 7 are going to be a pain (middle and rear) but please get something to thread into the caps and pull them don't just jam some screw drivers in the bolt holes and wiggle them to freedom (you laugh, I've seen it happen). That includes the bearings, front cover and pump/dizzy. Technically you can leave the clutch on to get the crank off (the rear seal is going to come with) but it's a major pita. IIRC I think the procedure should be in the FSM somewhereish. You can download it at XenonZ31. Edited March 6, 2010 by MAG58 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 Geez, I guess I better go put that diesel crank back into that Maxima, since I couldn't remove it in-frame! Why is everybody intent on pulling an engine out the TOP of the car? They are installed at the factory from the BOTTOM, why not take it out that way? I've taken more than one out on a dirt driveway that won't allow even a portable gantry by dropping the K-Member onto some bricks, and then having a couple of guys lift up the front of the body and roll the car back. Works fine, and there it sits for you to do whatever you want. Which brings up why remove the crank 'for measuring'---I thought that was what plasti-gauge was for... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orangy Posted March 6, 2010 Author Share Posted March 6, 2010 Ok, Starting from the most recent comment: Plastigage is for checking oil clearances, not checking to see if the crank is out of round so I know if I can reuse it. I'm pulling the block(which only things in/on the block are the front pulley/cover and crank. There is nothing else in/on the block) from the top because I have to leave the car in a 2 car garage and I'm stuck using only one side. Top is the easiest especially since my driveway angles down to the street. I have the mains loose. All of them. I have them snug at the moment. That's good to know that I actually don't have to have a hoist, since I don't have one easily available for use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 Engine Drop No hoist? No problem. Two car garage? No problem. Use some jacks to drop the engine down. Once the engine was down I took it off the jacks and put it on a thick piece of cardboard. I had my brother grab the radiator support and lift the car while I slid the engine past the lower rad mount. It was my first time so it took some time, but I was definitely satisfied. Oh, and don't forget to (completely) drain the block of coolant... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 Now that the only thing sitting in the bay is the block it self supported by the engine hoist, you can climb under the car in a cramped environment and gingerly drop a 30+lb crank on yourself. In case anyone actually tries this...I wouldn't recommend getting under that heavy chunk of metal with only a hydraulic lift supporting it. I've seen hydraulic jacks fail. You wouldn't want to under the supported load when one did. Put something solid underneath it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 (edited) I humbly stand corrected, L-Engine Cranks are notorious for going out-of-round, do not use Plastigauge or you could seriously mislead yourself into thinking the crank journals were round, and then go on to checking oil clearances indirectly through physical measurements. Good luck with removing that crank / engine / whatever... Edited March 8, 2010 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ineptitude01 Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 Guys, guys... Working on cars doesn't HAVE to be expensive. You can cut your springs, spray your hood flat black with paint you found in the shed, go junkyarding for some HIDs and turbo emblems and just pocket 'em... Hell, I bet passwordJDM will just mail you some stickers, if you ask. But working on cars RIGHT can be expensive. If you plan to take the engine out of the car, do it right, or don't do it. You can get it in and out moderately easily from the top with a cherry picker. If you have a way to move the engine once it's on the ground, you can drop it instead, but a cherry picker is still going to be the method of choice. Craigslist is the way to go. Get 'em used. Good paint doesn't makI bought my hoist for little more than $100 or $150, I don't remember which. My engine stand was about $50. Investing in useful tools is NEVER a waste of time or money. I was convinced that I had finally found the waste of money in buying ratcheting wrenches, but they've ended up being far and away my favorite tool. God, and what happens if you drop the crank, and it doesn't hit you, it hits the concrete? Then you don't have to wonder whether it needs to be worked on, I guess... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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