Pharaohabq Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Right.... Okay, I was wrong, The Cowel idea is a bad place to vent as Tony said. I have since read up on a lot of the aero on here about it. Hope Venting out the side works with those waterproof fans. Phar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Preston Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 I've noticed several threads pertaining to heat and high pressure issues in the engine bay of z cars. Some have vented into the fender well area. I'm curious to know if venting the firewall into the cowl area would be beneficial or detrimental. In theory it should keep the air moving and reduce the high pressure and heat issues. We personally plan on doing it to ours as a guinea pig if it hasn't been tried before. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Preston Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 Ok sorry I'm posting off of my cell and didn't notice the other pages and comments related to venting into the cowl. My apologies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LanceVance Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Didn't seem necessary to start a new thread when this one already existed, so please excuse the necroposting. I'm curious if there's been any updates on this? I'm planning on adding radiator ducting and an undertray when I pull the L24 to make way for the L28ET. I'm also planning on venting the inner fender wall to the wheel well, and using electric fans to pull the air out of the bay, as pictured in this thread. On that note, I recently had a chance to check out a NASCAR car up close and noticed that nearly every single piece of ducting had these inline blower motors (Attwood Turbo 3000 inline blowers). Having never seen these I looked them up and found them for sale everywhere, and surprisingly cheap (right around $20). These seem like a perfect candidate for an application such as this... cheap, apparently reliable enough for pro race teams (although this line of thinking may be flawed if they considered these wear items that they replaced after every race), easy to mount and wire. Here a few photos of the NASCAR setup: Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LanceVance Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 (edited) Here is a link to the blower motors pictured above: http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/Turbo-3000 Edited March 3, 2016 by LanceVance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 I have a brake vent motor that I used to make a defroster for my Z. I was surprised with how much air it moves. 4 or 6 of them would probably work decently well for keeping underhood temps down. The other option would be to use the airflow around the car with louvers or flaps to get the air out. Louvered hood vents should help a bunch, or since you don't mind cutting holes in the fenderwells you could cut holes behind the radiator on the sides and then use S flaps on the front fenders to pull the hot air out of the rad out to the sides of the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
808morgan Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 I just pop my hood so it's on the first lock but not all the way down, leaves a nice open space to the rear of the hood since the great Z hood opens in the direction. No danger of flipping up like cars that open to the front. I do it if it's super hot but since I got a really nice aluminum radiator it hasn't been as much of an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 I just pop my hood so it's on the first lock but not all the way down, leaves a nice open space to the rear of the hood since the great Z hood opens in the direction. No danger of flipping up like cars that open to the front. I do it if it's super hot but since I got a really nice aluminum radiator it hasn't been as much of an issue. That first lock jiggles loose and it is unrestricted it comes up about 24" at 104mph.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 3, 2016 Share Posted July 3, 2016 I wonder how much it opens if you suddenly find yourself going backwards, or round-and-round. I know that happens to me with some regularity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LanceVance Posted July 3, 2016 Share Posted July 3, 2016 I wonder how much it opens if you suddenly find yourself going backwards, or round-and-round. I know that happens to me with some regularity. I know many government fleet vehicle have a secondary hood catch, consisting of a short strap with a snap hook near the primary latch, and an eye bolt attached to the hood. Should the main latch let go, or not be fully engaged the hood can only go up around 6" inches... I'll have to pay attention the next time I have a chance to examine one, might be a good safety investment! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted July 4, 2016 Share Posted July 4, 2016 You loop it at 140+ the opened hood latch is just waiting to create tragedy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted July 4, 2016 Share Posted July 4, 2016 (edited) ^ Yes, I agree 100% Safety latch is not good enough. That's what hood pins are for... Run the hood on a Z propped up, and proper Hood pins are a necessity. Edited July 4, 2016 by Chickenman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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