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seattlejester

seattlejester's 1971 240Z

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Goodness, I clipped your quote as that is a bit ridiculous. 

 

If there is a certain section you would like to quote you can highlight it with your mouse and let go and after a second it should prompt you if you want to quote this.

 

3 hours ago, Apiazza said:

Do you remember what thread the wire how to was posted on

For example^

 

What wire how to are you referring to? The headlight relays? The sealed beam to H4 conversion? The LED housing?

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2 hours ago, seattlejester said:

Goodness, I clipped your quote as that is a bit ridiculous. 

 

If there is a certain section you would like to quote you can highlight it with your mouse and let go and after a second it should prompt you if you want to quote this.

 

For example^

 

What wire how to are you referring to? The headlight relays? The sealed beam to H4 conversion? The LED housing?

Sorry, I was referring to the led headlights. 

Edited by Apiazza

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I converted to H4 a while back so it was plug and play.

 

The conversion should be in the earlier section of this thread. You can also buy a generic conversion kit, older jeeps used to use the sealed beams as well, they just require you to run a new wire for power to the battery and take everything else off the sealed beam plug for one head light to trigger and out put to two new H4 plugs.

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Started with ordering all the parts for this hopefully last overhaul for a while.

 

Looking for a shift knob made me realize, I have a printer? Why not make one?

FF03831F-5F4D-4292-80A7-93AB490D45F5_zps

 

Friend offered me his garage, so I went ahead and started with the swap. Unfortunately the trans is massive and my design goals is to always have the exhaust tucked up, it always surprises people when I drive right over speed bumps. So I just went big with making room. That meant moving my brake proportioning valve and remounting.  Figured while I was at it to just go for it. Overhauled my brake setup, no more brass hardware store fittings. Stainless steel elbows rated for higher pressure, and a high end swagelok 3000psi ball valve for parking brake. 

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While I was at it I also changed my drift stick into a similar style as I had before for fitment. The one before wouldn't lock the brakes and barely held the car while also being sloppy. So hopefully my built setup succeeds in locking up the rear wheels, and when I need to I can set the ball valve to hold the car and keep it running.

 

Also made room for the massive behemoth of a CD009. I really like the placement. The shifter is not so far back it is uncomfortable (I was reaching with the R154 so this is still awkward, but not quite as much as the stock R154). I also got a chance to move the fuel lines over to the the driver side away from the exhaust. 

 

Not sure how exhaust is going to work here, I think I will have to give up my goal of getting it tucked in the trans tunnel and just have it hang a bit lower. Still probably higher than your average low car.

 

I did order a catalytic converter to try and muffle the shriek that comes from this engine. Getting to an age where that seems to have faded on me a bit. Kind of reminds me of a small dog, huge bark and no bite, more bite than most cars, but still a little too much sound for presence. Hopefully the cat serves to muffle a bit and should make it nicer for the environment to boot. If that fails I have some ideas on making a baffled tail pipe.

 

Drive shaft shop failed me so no driveshaft. Planning on buttoning up the trans install, maybe get a bit of the exhaust setup started and finish up the mounts and shortening of the intercooler and radiator pipes. 

 

Also struggling with some bolts on the trans side. I'm pretty sure I have an early plate which has a lot of faults, two of which are that the bottom two bolts are tapped for a massive m12x1.75, while there is almost no room for the head. Going to try and acquire some allen head socket bolts. The top two bolts seem like even more of an issue. I wasn't able to get the trans quite forward enough to make those easy access. So the question is do I use them. I know some people don't run the top bolts just for ease. Getting them in is going to require dropping the tail end of the trans enough to snake some extensions up there, same thing for getting them off. Thoughts?

 

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11 hours ago, seattlejester said:

 

I did order a catalytic converter to try and muffle the shriek that comes from this engine. Getting to an age where that seems to have faded on me a bit. Kind of reminds me of a small dog, huge bark and no bite, more bite than most cars, but still a little too much sound for presence. Hopefully the cat serves to muffle a bit and should make it nicer for the environment to boot. If that fails I have some ideas on making a baffled tail pipe.

 

 

 

 

That's exactly how I have been feeling! Hah. If you are going to be loud, you had better be able to back it up. No reason for a 300hp car to sound like a top fuel. I mean to each their own, i suppose. 

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2 hours ago, LLave said:

No reason for a 300hp car to sound like a top fuel

Yup someone commented on how good my car sounded, I was more than a couple blocks away from them.

 

If I was maxing out my turbo and putting down 5-600hp I may be more inclined to leave the exhaust uncorked, but this round of mods is all about drivability with power steering, smoother transmission. A quieter exhaust definitely has its place in the formula.

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Couple of interesting problems that came up.

 

I couldn't figure out why my car was idling so high. From start up it just held really high RPM. Then I figured out that I moved the engine forward, which in turn shortens the throttle cable of course. Luckily when I installed the cable I added quite a bit of extra into the clevis point, so rolling out a bit more than an inch I have my idle again.

 

Couldn't bleed the clutch for the life of me. My master seemed fine, and I could see movement from the moment I started applying pressure to the pedal, but it moved half an inch or so. The 350z supposedly runs the same 5/8 master, but since I wasn't getting enough movement I stepped up to a 3/4. When even that didn't yield results I was really at a loss. I even took it out and bench bled the whole system. Then I looked under at the clutch pedal. Surprisingly, since our fulcrum is really high up the actuating rod moves almost less then an inch. Putting that together with the fact the slave is a fairly large 3/4 as well made me realize I needed more travel. I read an old post by miles I think that said he needed to cut the stop off the floor. So I started with that, then I rolled the slack stop (above the pedal) all the way in. With the additional travel I was getting the fork to fully cycle. It is an extra tough pressure plate, but it requires a fair amount of effort probably since I changed the master bore as well. Part of me is curious what would happen if I swapped back to the 5/8 with the extended travel. Annoyingly it seems that I went over kill on the travel as well, the engagement point sits about 1/2 an inch or so above where the stop was, so I'll have to add another one there. Although I may be tempted to move the slack stop a bit more since the clutch now sits higher than the brake pedal which may have put me into the clutch stop anyway.

 

Need to make some exhaust hangers, but I was able to salvage my old exhaust. I had some grand ideas, but maybe not for the time being. I'm tempted not to even install my cat, maybe have a shop take car of that for me as holding up and supporting exhaust is very tricky.

 

Engine mount may have to wait a bit as well.

 

New intercooler mounts are definitely on the menu.

 

Removable radiator support may have to wait.

 

I may attempt the power steering this weekend. A friend offered an alignment rack so I'll probably install my knuckles down there.

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My friend is similar he suggests 3d printing for a lot of solutions, granted we both agree if the car sits out in the sun PLA won't last, and I haven't played around with ABS yet. I am planning on printing a pretty trick piece for welding the power steering shafts together. 17mm to 16mm adapter with a slot in the middle so I can weld while having the pieces in perfect alignment.

 

Given I have a welder handy and had some bolts and nuts I made an adjustable stop.

51B1422E-8576-48C7-BD1F-358066E1A677_zps

Unfortunately my first step was to take up the slack stop that I had maxed out earlier, so I made the clutch even with the brake again. It is surprising, given the arc the pedal travels you gain a lot more throw up top for small pedal movement. In other words your engagement point can shift what feels like almost an inch or more from moving adjusting the rod back 1/4 of an inch. 

340C971B-91E3-40B8-9E8A-912D78246930_zps

That unfortunately meant I couldn't have the bolt and nut stack, so I cut the legs shorter and drilled through the wheel well. The engagement point is maybe an inch or so off of the stop now. The annoying part? Pretty much lines up almost perfect with where the stock one was.

 

 

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Finally got her back home. Had a scare when I noticed the oil pressure gauge was reading 0. Pulled off the road to find the little plastic nut on the sender had worked its way off and the wire had slipped off. Going to have to find a nylock nut or something to secure it on there.

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Looking a bit snazzier, added a plate to cover the trans and a little shifter extender with the benefit of also shifting the shifter forward about 2 inches. I also bought a weighted shifter, but with the extender and the leverage I was a bit concerned it would pull out of gear while braking or accelerating. I'm not married to the height, friend suggested it to see how I would like it being close to the shifter, but with it that tall the shift length is also quite long. Maybe when I drop it I'll throw the weighted knob back on to play with.

 

The ball valve is awesome. Quick flip and the car can be held pretty solidly. 

 

 I added some insulation, but goodness there is so much heat down there. I can't imagine it is all from the exhaust. I imagine the transmission itself puts out quite a bit of heat. Really wish I had put some reflective material up there before I put my transmission up, but I didn't think it would be that bad (R154 was fine after adding the insulation). Short of dropping the transmission anyone have any suggestions? Someone suggested a carpet kit might help. Definitely going to buy the aluminum silica mat thing for the underside the next time I do some major work, but something for the top side would be helpful.

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Your car is so cool, I'm jealous haha. Letting me try it briefly was a bad idea... just made me want to abandon the L28 completely. Would slow things down to getting it on the road but wouldn't do things twice I guess.

 

For insulation I'm gonna be using Lizard Skin, but I distinctly remember when I drove my car in the Cache Cruise-In last summer there was a TON of heat coming from near the shifter even through the shifter boot. This year after having a proper lower and upper shift boot to fully seal the cabin from the trans tunnel the heat was greatly reduced. It was 95 out and it was actually... bearable haha. Still not great without AC, but I'm sure if I wasn't driving so slow for the parade it would have been just fine. 

 

More to the point... just make sure the cabin is totally sealed. even with insulation and carpet like I had with the original stuff from the car it was getting really hot without the boot. 

Edited by Zetsaz

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Join the darkside :)

 

I have the trans tunnel completely sealed with aluminum tape to the shifter stand and now the shift boot on top as well although it isn't secured. I'm gonna try another layer of the insulation over the top. If it is still too warm I'll order some of the reflective trans mat for the bottom and try and sneak it up there some day, I've been looking at z car depot and they have some cushioning for the carpet that seems like it would act as a pretty good barrier as well.

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I might just... Every single trans option I have for the L28 that'll hold reasonable power basically puts me in the same price range as doing a JZ swap, whether it's NA-T, or the 1jzgte options I like. I think even the W58 would hold the power I was looking for out of the the L series, so a JZ swap price might be a wash compared to what I have left for the L series I'd actually enjoy. 

 

We'll have to grab lunch and talk more about the whole process once I'm back up in Washington. 

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Autocross was fun

DSC01870_zpshc93fr0l.jpg

Got to meet ben and check out his z

DSC01881_zpsukbyuqbp.jpg

Had some problems with my car

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Fittings seem to be leaking in the rear.

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Intake fell off and will need replacement.

Intake also attacked the belt when it fell.

And definitely an active oil leak which is the bane of my existence. 

 

So had another fairly productive weekend.

 

After 200 miles my right leg was killing me. Part of it definitely is seat angle (being flat instead of angled), and the sport seats have a fairly short seat to start with, but the lack of support for your thigh in addition to holding your leg at a funny angle because of the roll bar meant I actually had to stop just to stretch.

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Roll bar was a nice cosmetic touch, but truth be told, mine was probably never going to do anything unless I landed perfectly on my roof. Given how it was mounted a rear impact may even be more dangerous with the whole structure moving forward.

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So out it came. I had some thoughts of modifying it to sit on the rear wheel well, but this one has been cut and welded to death, I think it can be retired. I counted and I get 3 additional clicks to slide back, now the inboard adjuster is rubbing the trans tunnel, I also get to recline the seat a good 3 clicks, so a bit better, not perfect, but much better.

 

Another point was my head was ringing, even with headphones in you could hear a drone like someone was yelling "DRA" in your ear. 

ED57BEDB-446E-4375-B89E-BEA7B3139A56_zps

So I added a big ultra quiet resonator, and also threw in a cat while I was down there.

I had some temptation to modify it to bring it out the back, but too much work for the moment, and I don't want to bring the hot exhaust around the plastic fuel cell (maybe when I make an aluminum one). Now the exhaust is just loud, but a lot of the other odd tones are gone, and there is a nice toast smell instead of fuel. I think I'll be throwing in a muffler down the road, even this seems too loud for sustained usage, granted not as bad. 

 

I also tried to throw some shielding up in the trans tunnel, but man, the DEI floor shield stuff is super hard to work with, and their adhesive is really weak. They state that you don't need to clean before applying indicating how good the adhesive is, but it is barely on there. I think this will have to wait until the trans is out so I can wash the tunnel, maybe even just rivet this thing in place.

 

Replaced my accessory belt and did the first oil change, no metal or coolant in the oil which is good. There still is a small leak that appears to only manifest while driving on the driver side, I suspect from that oil level sender, but I'll have to investigate it at another time.

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Another problem that came up during the autocross was fuel starvation. Part of me thought it was because it was autocross and I was running the fuel cell fairly low. It did seem to get better when I filled up the next day. 

 

Then I went on a local drive. A little over half way through the car started bogging and surging pretty badly running pretty lean even at low load. I could hear the pump cavitating. I filled up again and it seemed to go away after I let the car sit, and only returned after 30 minutes. 

 

Sent off the fuel pump for warranty in case it was going bad and started assembling a new fuel system. When it returned I threw it back on for a photo shoot only to find the fuel flow from the hose was less then the fuel flow from the fuel cell. I took off the inline filter to find it was about 1/2 blocked.

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Even after a bit of cleaning it still had fine debris.

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I think this stemmed from when I drained the fuel into a plastic fuel jug and when I poured it back in the little plastic bits from manufacturing also went into the cell. So the car would run ok until enough of the fuel passed through the filter to bring the debris into clogging the filter. After sitting the debris would basically backwash into the cell. Good thing is the filter did its job, and being reusable is a wash away from being clean.

 

However I had already started down the road of replacing the cell with a tank. Thanks to posts by Joe and a lot of feedback from Omar I decided to go with a camaro tank. That was a whole ordeal in and of it self to acquire and prepare it.

 

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We tigged this frame together, only to find it was too long and wouldn't sit on the mounts I had from the fuel cell.

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So it was modified to allow it to slide in at an angle. 

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A wee bit of undercoat to keep it from instantly rusting.

If desired, the tank could be dropped with the straps, and then the subframe could be removed if needed.

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Much more discrete then the fuel cell that used to be there.

The GM sender is also a different ohm range than normal and really difficult to design. I did find a gauge online that worked, but it kind of ruins the current scheme I have going on.

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Might have to slowly convert everything else around it now, but the gauge has the startup dance, a really nice back lit LED and when you get low on fuel the gauge buzzes and the logo at the bottom turns orange. Not bad for $40 or so.

 

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Thanks, I think I am going to try and get some lift time soon and I'll grab a few more photos.

 

It really does look like stock, maybe even better with the speed grooves. The tank is from when they switched over to the LS-1, so 99+ I believe.

 

Notes while I still remember.

 

Most parts you can buy from rock auto, straps, hardware, fuel fill neck, gas cap, lock ring, etc.

 

The Spectra V6 pump says it will push 50gph, but I'm not sure if that is true, I have the pump, but I've never tried it. Their pumps are clipped into a plastic ring and are not readily replaceable other than another spectra pump so be advised. The stock style bucket was found on amazon for about $30, it has the rubber sleeve, jet pump assembly, etc. You can get a stock replacement for something ludicrous like $5-700 from the parts store. Racetronix sells a plug and play kit for the STOCK bucket. It puts a 255lph pump that uses the jet pump and is all wired up, but it is for the STOCK bucket, if you use aftermarket they switched to wider tabs for the fuel pump wires and the plug will not fit.

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You will have to harvest the new pins from the new bucket and crimp them onto the thicker wires from the racetronix kit.

 

The part that is seemingly non existent is the fuel fill hose that connects the neck to the tank. According to the junkyard they cut those to drain the tank. Given the tank has a roll over valve that seems completely unnecessary, but I believe the stock fill neck is welded to the car so it may be how they remove it easily. I found a hose for an old jeep that is the correct diameter, if you can find 1 inch hose rated for gas as well as some 1 inch hose barbs you will be in business, I could not find any locally. Still looking for the right fittings.

Company/part number: Omix-Ada 17740.05 it seems to have sufficient bends and curves to figure something out with some couplers/90 fittings.

 

Note the V6 and the V8 tanks are identical as far as I can tell. The internal bucket mechanism is different. My setup is a combo, I have the top half of the V6 bucket and the lower portion of the V8, the only benefit is that my fuel return goes straight back into the bucket instead of shooting out from the removed regulator port, not sure if it will make a difference. The difference once again is the V6 has a feed and return and dumps into the bucket, no regulator in line. The V8 setup has a regulator built into the bucket and will not return until 70psi or so. 

 

I am pretty sure these are the fittings I used to adapt to the top of the tank

https://www.amazon.com/Russell-640853-Quick-Disconnect-Female-Fitting/dp/B001P2CKVY/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1548038859&sr=8-15&keywords=3%2F8+to+6an+quick

I already have 6 an line so plug and play.

 

The pump needs to be primed on your first go around, preferably with adequate fuel. I had it all installed and poured in a few gallons into the tank and the pump wouldn't circulate. Pulled it out and filled the bucket a bit and it gurgled then started pumping. Make sure you prime it the first time before you load it into the tank.

 

The bars to mount the tank against should be about 2 inches wide (note the frame, not the straps). Make sure you use foam on the pressure points, you can see where they used it on the factory tank from the cut outs they have for it (weather strip foam bought at home depot). 

 

Ohm range is like 40-250 for the sender. Not many gauges seem to do this range.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Gauge-2-52mm-full-ranges-LED-low-fuel-warning-001-F-BB-17/261697663603?hash=item3cee657273:g:PukAAOSwKSRa4yMw:rk:30:pf:0

That is the one I bought and it works well. Pretty nice as mentioned above.

 

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