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seattlejester's 1971 240Z

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I played around with how the engine was sitting probably 4 times or so, lifting up one side, loosening the bolts, dropping it. Loosening all the bolts and trying again. Basically for it to be perfect would mean modifying the driverside mount again, really not too concerned with a little bit of lean.


Decided to swap out the water pump, because no matter how many times I looked at it, it definitely looked wrong and old.


Not wanting to mess around with getting the wrong back half, I ordered a complete non vvti water pump.


You can see that this pump is held in by 4 bolts not just one and that the bolt holes line up. One thing I didn't realize was that the water pump pulley bolt spacing is different. By my guess and what background I remember, the PO having done a few JZ's probably had a spare VVTI pump that was in decent condition and decided to swap it onto the motor. So I tracked down a water pump pulley on eBay and bought it.


I did some other bits like clean up the oil filter adapter, I was tempted to run just a union bolt, but really the adapter wasn't what failed, it was the adapter to the adapter to the remote oil filter line that worked its way loose that failed. So stock it stays for now.



With some the accessory bits done, I started moving onto the big pieces. I put the ARP studs in hand tight, then put on the cometic 2.4mm gasket. I'm reading more and more about people having them leak, so there is a bit of concern, but I am ever hopeful especially since the 2jz-ge non VVTI runs a 0.2mm gasket which is ever so tiny and basically means a uniform starting surface and I had my head machined flat so I am hoping the seal is good. I read some reports of people installing gaskets upside down, but the 2jz has an oil port on the near the firewall on the passenger side, not sure how you can install a gasket upside down when there is an offset hole.



Then came the head.


I really should have waited for someone to give me a hand, but I just couldn't wait or be bothered to try and bother someone. The loaded head was probably 40lbs or so. Not too bad, but being long made the balance hard to hold. Glad to say I didn't drop it, although I did have to rest it on the studs, I made sure to not scrape across the surface. Once lined up the head basically dropped into place guided by the studs.


On the 2jz and I think 7m as well you have to remove the cams to tighten the head bolts. Turns out in addition to removing the cams and towers, you have to remove the stud to put on the ARP washer. I backed them out one at a time and placed the washer then reinstalled the stud. I think it was probably better to do it the way I did so that you know 100% the gasket is aligned, but at the same time with the indexing guides on the head and block probably could have saved myself some grief. 


I threw some valve covers on for the time being. I have to go back and tighten everything, but was dead beat having leaned over the engine all day.


Looks like it lines up better then I thought. 


I'm working on the attachments while I wait for some important parts to come in to finish the water system, timing belt, and accessory belt. 


Ordered my turbo and that apparently has a 3-4 week back order so I have time to mess with the turbo manifold later. Currently working on the FFIM and the lower intake runner. Going through craigslist to find an aluminum welder that can weld in my vacuum/boost reference block and my throttle body adapter once I figure out which one I want to use. If anyone has any recommendations would love to hear them.

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You and me both. Or at least I was (foreshadow...)


Well some more work.


I finished out the head stuff. 


Tightened the head studs to 80lbs as suggested and installed the 2.4mm cometic gasket dry as cometic suggested.


Then tightened all the cam towers to 15lbs in multiple steps in multiple passes, then undid caps as you rotate the cam to make sure the caps are not tightened under load. Pretty impressive how much detail they go into to make sure you don't tighten the caps loosely.


Threw in the greased cam seals and tightened down the first cam cap with FIPG. 


Then put on the cam pulley backing plate and the cam gears and tightened those to spec.




Cleaned up some small parts




Installed new o-rings for the water pipe, the head mating surface, and ordered a new thermostat.


And bought the adapters to fit my oil feed and oil pressure sending unit. I have had this intellitronix gauge sitting in my glove box all wired up for the last 2 years ready to replace my mechanical gauge. I decided I had waited long enough for them to get off their butt and ship me the sending unit promised repeatedly over the last 2 years and badgered them until I finally got my sending unit. It isn't lost on my that it would have been much easier to spot the lack of oil pressure on the 7m had I had a nicely back lit LED gauge in the bright sun, but alas.




Rant over.


I ordered the intake manifold based off of Dexter72's build. 


Turns out I didn't account for my 15/16th master to have the bleed nipples on the opposite side.






The space is about 11.5 inches from the head to the shock tower and the brake master and the manifold ends up being about 11 inches. The 0.5 inches would be enough except the casting for the bleed nipples and the nipples themselves take about an inch more. 


The manifold was about two inches too high from even lining up. 


I contemplated my options. Go with a different master cylinder, delete the brake booster, go with a different intake manifold.


More or less the fact I didn't want to down grade, loose the booster, rebleed all my brakes, spend 600+ on a new manifold, or loose money on my manifold now, I decided to at least cut it up to mockup. 


Worst case scenario I have another set of runners so I can go to the cross over manifold or cut the runners and build my own down the road. 


So a couple key cuts and I could at least line up the manifold. Since the plan for this manifold was to go visit a welder to make it a bit shorter and tilt the throttle body flange in addition to changing the flange it won't end up costing me too much more. The only concern is that the divot will cause problems with the air flow, but given that this is a 5 inch tube and the input is 2.5 inch intercooler piping coming from a 2 inch turbine outlet, I think it should have more then enough room. 


Right now I'm working on making a throttle body flange. I decided to reuse my 7m throttle body. It is 2.5 ID which is the same size as my intercooler OD, Way shorter then the 2jz-ge throttle body, and I won't need to neck down as drastically compared to using the 80mm LS400 throttle body. Not sure if this is one of those things I'm building myself in to regretting down the road, but if so I'm doing it purposefully since I really want to revisit this manifold situation at some point.


Also got most of my turbo goodies today. I held off on ordering the feed and drain kit hoping to get something pretty close to idea so I'll have to mock that stuff up this weekend hopefully. 

Edited by seattlejester

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The conversion parts required didn't appeal to me. 


I think if the transmission goes it is going to get a driftmotion rebuild, that should pretty much make it problem free for any thing I would sanely throw at it.


If I was thinking of going through the effort of converting a transmission, I would just go with a CD009, get a 6th gear out of the effort.

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Regarding the transmission: I think out of the alternative swap options (not toyota) it is indeed easier, and pretty cheap compared to others. I'm curious about the S10 since everyone does the saturn/pontiac I imagine it would be cheaper/easier to find an S10.  If you add up the conversion parts though I don't know if it would be cheaper then a good deal on a R154. You would have to ask joa for his total on that one. It would have the fix for the thrust washer which would be a bonus and better syncros if I'm not mistaken.


Honestly there are more options then there have ever been now. They even have a new one where you use the bell housing off of the automatic transmission that comes on most 2jzgte you get from an importer and use an adapter plate just for the transmission so you don't have to buy a 1jz bell housing to adapt a CD009. They have a BMW one as well which could be viable too and BMW transmissions are very affordable. Or if you are at all realistic you can just run a W58 for quite a while. Just keep the power under 350hp/tq and try not to launch it, or run a relatively light pressure plate. 


I really don't think the transmission should hold you back. Chances are you are going to have to spend about the same regardless of engine choice, given the JZ is pretty much used in all aspects you cam even run other transmissions pretty easily using conversion/bellhousing parts (T56 etc)


Regarding the swap: JZ swap makes sense to me, the layout, the parts availability, the aftermarket. To others the RB makes more sense, same brand, heritage, equally strong aftermarket, and a more common swap so easier in some regards. To others a V8 makes more sense, even better aftermarket, parts availability, low cost, high power, etc etc etc. Then there are those who like the L-series, and make awesome numbers with those. I think an L-series with Derek's head and a CD009 using Hoke's adapter going to wifrit's 8.8 rear end swap running EFI through ITB's would probably be my dream swap.


Then there's the future, that inline 6 from the 335i is pretty potent, has a big after market, the only thing holding it back is it still is pretty pricey.

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We're having pretty atypical weather here. Plan was to button up the block, but only made limited progress as I really didn't want to roll around on the ground in the cold.


Put on the gates racing timing belt.



With the timing belt on I installed the timing belt tensioner pulley tensioner.


Waiting to pull the pin until I am 100% sure I don't need to come back to this.


Also installed the missing timing belt guide. 


I ordered and received a NOS lower timing belt cover. Mine had a crack and the paint on the lettering was gone.


Also ordered a clear cam gear cover so I can spot any imminent failure of the belt.


Couldn't help myself and opened the turbo.


The efficiency thing is crazy. My upgraded 57 trim CT26 looks almost bigger and maxes out at 65% efficiency at ~49CFM at a pressure ratio of 2.5, but the borg warner flows something like 53CFM at 65% at a pressure ratio of 2.5, but the crazy thing is that it continues to be efficient at the 65% mark all the way up to a pressure ratio of 4 flowing over 58CFM. That means while the upgraded CT will max out say 22psi flowing 49CFM (compared to the stock one which maxed out at 35CFM at 16psi or so) the BW will still be efficient at 45psi. Given the small impellar size it won't make much power as the boost climbs, but as long as your system can handle the increase in boost that should mean this turbo should be able to do about 480whp without breaking a sweat, maybe 550 at a bit of a stretch, where as the 57 trim CT turbo would be sweating bullets just to stay above 400whp. 


I have one more hole to tap on my intake manifold before I drop it off at the welders. I drilled out the valve covers and tapped them to a 1/2 inch NPT to fit some barbs for the positive crank case vent. Turbo manifold needs a bit of work cleaning up some burs left behind after the PO opened up the holes to make it better mount the engine. Haven't heard back from the tuner about mounting the trigger wheel, so I may just do the same that Dexter72 did to get the car up and running.

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Managed to get some work done this weekend. 


Jacked up the car and installed the clutch fork along with the slave and covers. Also installed the 5 additional bolts for the bell housing to the engine. 


Done under there for the time being. Once the car moves I'll have to go back to torque some of them as trying to torque under a car is always awkward.


Threw on the new front timing cover along with the water pump pulley. 


Kind of stopped myself from going further as I am tempted to count the teeth to make 100% sure I didn't skip a tooth. The belt is awfully tight, but I've been told these gates belts are kind of tough and not as compliant and additionally I added 2.4mm to the head so that makes sense.


Still haven't heard back from the guy I wanted to do my crank pulley. So  going ahead with some guidance from dexter72.

Used a 21/64 bit to drill out the two blank holes in the crank pulley. Then used red loctite to hold the coils in place. Had to cut off two coils off of the standard helicoil kit to make sure threads weren't protruding too much. Cut down my shaved studs I used for the 7m. Kind of interesting the 7m was still old school and used a 3 row crank pulley. The 2jz is modern and employs a serpentine tract so only is one row. I digress, then I loctited those in place as well. 


I drilled out my trigger wheel to either 7/8 or 1 inch (step drill is HF not all listed...) to clear the crank pulley bolt head as I didn't want to shave it down while wanting to keep the circle of metal to prevent it from just flopping.


As it sits the trigger wheel is in perfect alignment. Doesn't rotate or move radially. 


Dexter72 made a pedestal with some loctited nuts, I think I'm going to employ some large washers and some nyloc nuts.


Valve covers are going to be blasted and painted hopefully in the next week or two. The guy I had lined up to weld my intake manifold is injured so there may be a delay there, but once the crank pulley is mounted I get to mess around with fitting the crank trigger sensor and the rest of the front dress, then move onto fitting the exhaust components.

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Pretty cool stuff happened.


Had a bit of back and forth trying to figure out my manifold. Got in touch with a more experienced welder who said he would just take it on. Called me the same day I dropped it off to tell me he was finished! Didn't want to show all the grotesque cuts until I was sure it could be finished.


First I cut off the throttle body flange. It fits an aftermarket mustang throttle body. Given I plan on running the same intercooler and piping having a 90mm throttle body opening seemed silly to reduce down to 2.5 inch. So I cut it off. That also would give me the much needed room to bolt the runners to the manifold body.


I made a new throttle body flange by tracing the 7mgte throttle body and transferring it over to a 1/2 inch aluminum plate. I found an appropriate holesaw and cut out the main hole then used a pilot drill for the throttle body bolts. Something you forget drilling into clean stock is you have to drill in level or you are going to angle the heck out of the bolts. I made sure to correct them with the bigger drill bits to make sure all the bolts would go in perpendicular to the flange.


Tapping holes in aluminum was a real exercise in patience having to come back out after almost every 1/2 turn to remove the chips. Hands were raw after doing 4 of those.


I had to shave the intake manifold body about 4 times to get the curvature I was looking for. This means I get to reuse my blow off valve and intake air temp charge pipe so that makes things really simple.


Here is the cause of all my misery. Ordered a piece of angle aluminum and cut it to fit.


And finally the finished product.


Looks like it will work fine. My only concern is with the gasket between the body and the runner. I used a factory style stamped steel gasket coated with copper spray. I have some reservations about it sealing all the way as I can see an airgap between the runners, but it is stamped steel so I'm hopeful it is just between the runners and not around the runners. Going to pickup some aluminum tape and attempt a pressure test this weekend. If it fails I'll run a bead of JB all the way around and plan on either making my own manifold or buying another type in the future.


Valve covers came back from the sand blaster. I got tired of scrubbing it after about 4 days I threw in the towel and sent it off. I really wish there was a perfect cleaning method. Still found quite a bit of crud after he finished, but infinitely better then it was. Probably one more washing session. Before I give it a good final clean and get it ready for paint. I'd love to powdercoat but that sticker shock from last time. Going to try paint this time around.



Also mocked up my crank trigger sensor mount. Will have to grab pictures of that monstrosity soon.


With the big pieces in hand I can start figuring out lengths I need for the oil drain and feed. Then I have to fabricate the exhaust to meet up with what I have and also a waste gate dump to meet up with that. I don't think I want to do a screamer pipe if I can help it. I think legitimately one more order to summit for those parts once I have some measurements and I can get the car running again.

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Decided I had enough chips in my hand to get a bit of work done.


Happiest of days, it seems like everything fits!


The turbo clears the shock tower with about a 1/4 inch or so...


and the intake also clears with about a 1/2 inch of room to play with.


I think combined with the poly mounts I might be able to get away as is. Worse case scenario I'll have to hit my shock tower a bit just to make sure it doesn't bob up against it. Unfortunately a staged shot really. The intake manifold needs a once over and to be cleaned with the fittings installed. The turbo manifold has problems of its own listed below.


Picture of the chopped up mount for the trigger wheel. I eyeballed it and cut the ends off then welded it back together. Problem was that it was too tall given the 7m is a 3 groove pulley.



It is canted a bit down, I may have to slot both the holes a bit to get it to hit the wheel at a better angle, but I believe it shouldn't really matter. I'll have to run a tooth log once everything is buttoned up. It is pretty easy to get to so not too concerned. The holes in the block are threaded, so using some M10x1.25 75mm long I was able to bolt the adapter to the block.


Then there are the problems like always.


Exhaust manifold studs are too long for most of the holes. I think the ones on the end might get away, but the ones in the center are definitely going to have to be dealt with. Given that the head is aluminum I'm not too excited about my options. A regular bolt is going to be a nightmare especially trying to get a wrench in there since a socket is clearly out of the question. Probably looking at some allen head bolts, but given that the manifold just absolutely sucks for fitment and all the holes are drilled larger to barely get it on I'm going to have to run some weird offset washers most likely. I've sent them an e-mail to see what they suggest. Kinda miffed. They are as far as I know a reputable company, even a lot of ebay manifolds are notched and such just to avoid this, but the more I search the more it seems that fitment problems are the norm.


Additionally the turbo won't accommodate the ideal length bolt as the scroll gets in the way. That means I have to find some fairly short studs as well. 


Good news is I finally measured the lengths for the drain and feed so I can submit my order to summit and pickup some tubing for the exhaust and an o2 bung while I'm at it. Last order other then one for OEM valve cover gaskets. Pretty excited parts are finally going on the motor and off the floor.

Edited by seattlejester

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Thanks, that was a pretty big moment and lots of hurdles cleared.


More good news. Or kind of embarrassing news?


Because the fitment on the treadstone manifold is known to be so bad, at some point a previous owner drilled out all the holes to allow the manifold to slide on the studs.


As an unexpected bi-product this allows the manifold to tilt up and down on the studs. Tilting the manifold down allows me to slip the factory nuts onto the top studs and tilting the manifold up allows me to slip nuts onto the bottom studs. Then it is a matter of pushing the manifold on, threading all the nuts in a few turns, the repeating until seated. 


So if I shave the interfering torx bit and maybe the first couple threads I might be able to get away with slipping a 12 point down there and tightening a 1/12th turn at a time. 


Spent last night looking at catch cans and such and figuring out all the fittings I need to order. I'm going with a oil catch can to vacuum pre turbo. That means buying a coupler for the intake to the turbo I can put some fittings on and finding a catch can that has the desired design and fittings. Given nothing really exist that doesn't either break the bank like crazy or fit my very specific needs, I'm going to buy one maybe two and modify them for what I think they should be.

Edited by seattlejester

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Manifold and wastegate bolted on. Wastegate needed some clearancing to fit without the bolts trying to cross thread. Interesting working with a stainless steel manifold you are acutely aware that f'ing up any thread or hole is going to be a nightmare to try and repair.


You can see the poor cast on the turbo manifold manifold. Once again I think it is a failure on treadstones part, the annoying thing is that these manifolds change color when they are run so this one is unused, as long as it seals I think I'll live.


On better news, exhaust is done


Still needs a cleanup, but that was quite a chore lining up all the parts. Definitely had an easier time making an exhaust from scratch then trying to mate up multiple pieces.


You can see the wrap imprint from when the oil dumped onto the wrap and it soaked into it. I have a bit more wrap left so I'll see if I can make do with what I have. 


This weekends quest is to start buttoning up the cooling systems both radiator and intercooler, as well as start installing things and torquing them to final spec, as well as reinstating the wiring.


Really not much left to do here.

Edited by seattlejester

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Well that was a big load of bull.


There is plenty left to do...


To start off I went and retimed the motor as the TDC mark was off. Visually I had hit all the indicators, but seems like the belt hadn't picked up the right tooth. I am curious if it has to do with running the thicker head gasket, I imagine that affects the belt length. Regardless, I found this diagram online.


Counted the teeth and marked the indicators and re-aligned the belt.


Added the pressure reference ports with this snazzy turret fitting.


Then reassembled the baffles in the valve cover with RTV and loctite and painted them with some high temp engine enamel and clear. 


Found some holes in the dump so checked the rest of it and plugged up any holes, taped it off and threw on a coat of header paint.


Gapped the NGK BKR7E plugs to 0.028 and installed it into the head.


Bought some gasket paper and  made a new gasket for the throttle body.


I noticed the dump was running awfully close to the brake line. While with the poly mounts I doubted much movement, I feared the radiating heat might cause trouble. I conferred with a friend who said if I planned on doing any track driving even with a heat wrap I would be generating a lot of heat at the dump and suggested I move the brake line now.

You can imagine how close the brake line is to the dump.


Luckily when I routed my brake lines I went with CuNiFer which is very easy to bend. It was a matter of undoing the P-clamps and moving the line onto the frame rail.


More clearance for the exhaust and a much appreciated reprieve from heat for the line. Plan is to throw on a spark plug protector just for some added protection.


I picked up the lower radiator hose from an SC300 from the auto parts store, and I think I'll be able to cut up and reuse my upper radiator hose. My friend also dropped off our collective intercooler pipe box so I should be able to route my intercooler piping. Still need to do a bit of work with the turbo, I think I found a good orientation. Now I have to take the compressor housing off, drill out the pressure reference port, and clock the center section.


The list is long and I keep remembering things to add to it, but definitely getting closer and closer.

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More progress.


Had a hickup when I ordered the wrong size intake setup. Turns out they also stepped down a size from 4 inch to 3.5 inch on the turbo inlet so spent a while sorting out the returns for that.


Tried out a new aluminum welder. Younger guy, definitely not as experienced, but he was local and cheap. Definitely do want to get a TIG in the future. 


Decided to do weld on bungs on the oil catch can as well. Not really worth the effort of the brass fittings as it would not really grab and the tap wasn't cutting quite deep enough.


Ended up cutting the sc300 radiator hose as it came in at an odd angle. Hope was to forgo the piece of metal tubing, but I had to incorporate it to bridge the gap. It ended up leaking so I had to play around with it more, but should be fine for the first start.


The top hose was fairly simple a straight shot from the radiator to the head with a slight twist. I was a bit overzealous with the cutting. Basically going to have to revisit this in the future at some point, maybe go with some flex hose or something of that nature.


Got the cover installed and the COPs and the injectors plugged in. 



I ordered a replacement plug for the coolant sensor, I was really annoyed to find that it was inverted of the sensor in the motor. Went to the parts store and found the replacement just doesn't use any indexing grooves so picked that up and installed the coolant temp setup.


Finished wiring all the little things as well as plumbed up the boost control solenoid and the wastegate plumbing.


Also smacked in the dipstick. The curvature makes it very awkward and it doesn't even come close to lining up with any of the mounting points, it was for a GTE motor so it was somewhat expected. I ended up just slipping some foam over it so it doesn't rattle against the intake.


Also installed the heater bypass hose. Had to weld up a random barb on the pipe.


Then the distributor blockoff plate. Ideally I would have had the machine shop just throw in a plug, but forgot to ask.


So I used a bandsaw and cut through the distributor base plate.


Found a freeze plug 555-011 IIRC that fit the hole and tapped it in. 


Then I decided to fill the radiator.


Got almost all the way to the top before I sprung a leak. Turns out there is a hose barb under the inlet, not sure what it routed to in stock format, but definitely there. Did the old bolt and hose trick to seal that up.


So far it is holding the coolant. Planning on replacing the gasket on the oil drain plug, then filling with oil. Hopefully the battery has enough of a charge to crank to prime the pump and simultaneously I'm going to try and grab the timing offset from the new crank sensor mount. I probably shouldn't be lazy and hookup the oil pressure sensor and disconnect the oil drain on the turbo to make sure it is getting sufficient pressure before trying to start the car.


Then just a matter of trying to start the car. I'm going to leave the intercooler coupler off so it should be NA while I get the settings all dialed in and check for leaks. Then it will be a matter of making sure the boost control is functioning correctly and tuning for the bigger turbo.

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Wait...why do you have your hood on.


Why are you putting on your front spoiler...






Guys, it runs :D

Introducing the running and driving 2JZ NA-T swapped Datsun 240Z!


Went on a little drive today. Picked up some gas, and put a bit of air in the tires. Definitely immensely nervous. I'm so afraid of something going wrong, really so much has been changed without much proving miles (suspension, differential, axles, engine). Still it was really nice to get some seat time, I'm trying to be conscious and break in the clutch before I give it the full beans, I bought a clutch that is a full face which should hold about 450ft/lbs or so, but I've read that not breaking it in properly can make you loose as much as 100ft/lbs of holding torque. I have yet to go anywhere near full throttle I do definitely feel the boost ramping on much harder with a functioning map and boost controller. Pretty terrifying to be honest, hehehe.


Well it has been a while. Some bits just took a long time, and some life stuff happened. Still working on it though for sure. Learned some new things that I'm hoping to apply (look forward to the next post in a couple days), and potentially may be moving to a better work space.


So some thing to catch up on. Drain plug was a strange thing. I bought OEM toyota gaskets and was confused when they wouldn't fit. On investigation the plug had the word METRIC printed on it, which was odd. Measuring it found that it was oversized by 2mm. With that dealt with I could fill up the car with oil. 


Cranked the engine over until I got oil coming out of the turbo drain (real important to get it from the drain and not just unhook the feed as that deprives pressure to the block).


Then I had quite a bit of trouble with the timing as can be found in the ECU section. Not sure where it went wrong, it is down to either the tuning cable being sub par or the fact I am using a Macbook making the communication somewhat faulty. I did kind of get it down that if I reset a bunch of times and sent the files and tweaked some other parameter I could get it to write. It is confusing as it is reading the written value, but wouldn't apply it right away. I think I'll have to buy an old laptop just to run megasquirt on, I do have MSdroid which apparently has the capability to write to the controller so I'll have to see.


Had to shorten the throttle cable as well. The manifold sits close so it was a given. Also found out that there is some disconnect now as I can't get 100% throttle. Going to have to do some trigonometry to sort the problem there. Right now I get 0-80% which is enough, but I'm definitely leaving some stuff on the table.


Also found out that I had my settings wrong with my boost controller. It had no shot of ever working the way it was programmed. The signal was being sent too frequently for it to react, and I had a very progressive map for most likely a tiny turbocharger. That meant if the solenoid could react to the signal that was being sent way too frequently it would not be doing much anyway. So that was a big fix.


Some friends mentioned wanting to go on a drive. The way it is planned is about 400+miles in a day. I'm honestly not sure about that. For one I'm pretty sure I am still getting fumes in the car, and really just got it driving. I figure it will be motivation to kind of get the car better sorted.


With that spirit, I found a spot for my oil catch can. Definitely not ideal, but better then having it sit right above the exhaust. Still need to find a permanent mounting solution, but for now it should help to keep some oil fumes out from the intake.


Then I mounted my radiator overflow bottle. A couple U-brackets off of the shroud bolts made it pretty easy. I did panic when I noticed a pool of coolant while the car was running only to realize it was bleeding out of the top of the radiator. The overflow bottle has a long tube running nearly all the way to the top so it won't bleed onto the floor until it is at capacity.


Working on just cleaning things up and making it easier to use. Aesthetics definitely coming soon.

Edited by seattlejester

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Tubular front bumper, maybe a little bit of a front splitter and a block off for the front spoiler (local guy has made one that looks excellent), maybe a little bit of a subtle rear diffuser (get the air out from that area where the exhaust tends to pool). Possibly some new wheels. 


Color wise I still generally enjoy white. I've done blue on my daily which was fun, but I'm not ready for the flashier colors and the attention that brings (red, orange, yellow, green). I do plan on getting my feet wet in vinyl wrapping if that goes well the world will be my oyster.

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Now for something a little different.


A friend recently got into 3D printing. I had been wanting to learn 3D design for a while, and figured it was finally time so I asked him to show me some basics. 

He gave me an over view and went through designing some parts. I went home and found once the basics were learned it wasn't all too bad to figure out.

After maybe 30mins of video and a 2 hour or so lesson, I got enough of a hang of it to make some parts for a little project.


To a real physical print



Like all gear heads, this then turned into using the acquired knowledge to improve my car.


I made up the next couple parts.


Designed this piece to join the two pieces of the plug insert.


Then designed the all important tablet holder.


Then all the pieces came to life.



My nexus 7 worked, but was frankly ancient in tablet terms, the GPS signal was touchy, and frankly it was just slow. So I went online and picked up a used samsung galaxy tablet with a decent GPS suite. Not the best option, I would have preferred the 8, but they for some reason jumped up in price to double what a 7 inch was.



Then my friend came up and printed these. I was really content with just simple friction fit plugs, but he said it could be better and a lock fit.

So he printed this chamfered outer ring


Then the conical inner insert




Well in the past when I needed a tachometer I removed the stock one and went with a cheap 4.5 or 5 inch universal. Turns out it would fit right in the gauge hole with just a bit of friction. It stayed that way till I removed it nearly 4 years later. Needing a speedometer, tachometer, boost gauge, and a coolant gauge, and figuring I didn't want to buy all those separate when megasquirt would happily output all of those I decided to mount a tablet. The original plan was to just cut out the gauge pods and flat mount a tablet, but we talked about it and came up with this nice solution that doesn't require any modification of the factory dash.


So first these pod adapters go in


Then the joiner and the tablet holder and voila


One custom tablet holder. Tablet can be removed from the car by sliding it out of the tablet holder for security. Mount is fully removable. Needs a little bit of adjustment, but overall I think it is amazing what you can do.

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