calvin280zxt Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 Just wondering how every one else hets Rid of and prevents rust, does rust Converter work? What about those electronic rust stoppers , im almost going to start bolting blocks of zinc to my car like the navy does. What Have You guys done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zBoy Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 Por-15!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calvin280zxt Posted October 23, 2010 Author Share Posted October 23, 2010 Does that stuff really work? And for how long Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greghassen Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 Just wondering how every one else hets Rid of and prevents rust, does rust Converter work? What about those electronic rust stoppers , im almost going to start bolting blocks of zinc to my car like the navy does. What Have You guys done a light oil sprayed inside body panels works good. you can use one of those garden sprayers to get in the rockers and back behind the quarter panels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calvin280zxt Posted October 23, 2010 Author Share Posted October 23, 2010 a light oil sprayed inside body panels works good. you can use one of those garden sprayers to get in the rockers and back behind the quarter panels. Godd idea, im Planning on doing the body on my 280zxt this winter. Crude and effective i like it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zzeal Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 Eastwood now has an Internal Frame Coating aerosol, comes with an 18" nozzle. Sounds promising. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B00STDZ Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 Those converters are amazing... haha just make sure you clean/sand alittle and put a top coat over the converter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calvin280zxt Posted October 24, 2010 Author Share Posted October 24, 2010 Thanks guys, think im going to prime it with por15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Netrix Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 (edited) http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp Chassis Saver is another product, I think it's cheaper than POR-15. They sell it in a few colors also and have different versions depending on application. Videos: First video a guy beats Chassis Saver with a hammer and it doesn't chip. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PG0S7KQzRvk Second video is Stacy David on Gearz, he's the former host of Trucks tv show. Great guy. The people that make this stuff are here in the US and are great people. They recently launched the first UV protected paint on bedliner. On Jeepforum.com they are great vendors and are always giving advice and taking input. I ordered some paint on bedliner for my Jeep and they send a free quart of it with it. Edited October 24, 2010 by Netrix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calvin280zxt Posted October 25, 2010 Author Share Posted October 25, 2010 Looks like good stuff, stacy was so much cooler than any of the new guys on there, be nice if his new show played some time besides 3 in the morning. These are all good ideas, ill check into the chassis saver but i can get enough por 15 to do the whole car for 50 bucks anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomoHawk Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 (edited) a light oil sprayed inside body panels works good. you can use one of those garden sprayers to get in the rockers and back behind the quarter panels. They use a product called CorrosionX on aircraft used near the ocean. It's sprayed as a light oil, and also works on your electronics to protect it. You're better off just keeping it clean. Water doesn't cause the rust, it's the minerals and organics in the water that help cause the oxidation. You could just rinse it off after driving in the rain or dirty/salty water. About the zinc blocks- the zinc blocks by themselves don't do anything but make the ship heavier. The entire ship gets a slight electronic charge, and it causes the zinc blocks as sacrificial anodes. Edited October 25, 2010 by TomoHawk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calvin280zxt Posted October 26, 2010 Author Share Posted October 26, 2010 I was just kidding about the blocks, is corrosionx something available to the public? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280z4me2 Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 I used a sample kit of POR 15 to try on my engine bay. I tried it on a small section of the radiator support. It has only been on for about a month so I cant say how long lasting it will be. I can say that it is the toughest coating I have ever seen! After I let it dry, two days later I beat it up at angles with the back claws of a hammer. It wouldnt chip for ANYTHING, and it took several hits to get it to break through to metal. I have no doubts that it is permenant. I ordered alot more the next day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calvin280zxt Posted November 3, 2010 Author Share Posted November 3, 2010 Iv heard a few guys say that, i plan to cover every possible surface with it, iv hit a dillema tho, the seam where the quarter panel meets the door pillar has rust coming thru and you cant get to the back side of it.. Any ideas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 (edited) My experience with rust preventative paints has been less than stellar. The PO coated the entire inside of my 240z with Eastwood rust encapsulator. It encapsulates the rust as the name implies. The problem is that the rust never stopped eating away at the metal. Luckily for me I got to it before it rusted thru the floor pan. I would highly recommend that you remove all the rust that you can and threat the remaining surface with Metal Ready or Ospho to neutralize the rust prior to top coating with paint. Read this:http://www.drjing.com/Mini/BLOG/SideBySide.htm. The rust encapsulator on my 240 looked exactly like the photo labled 10/3/05. Edited November 3, 2010 by rossman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zip Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 In my opinion, the only proper way to deal with rust is to grind or blast the area (sand, slag, glass bead, or other media), cut away the damaged metal, and then repair with metal. I always prep (inside and out) with a good epoxy-based etching metal primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calvin280zxt Posted November 3, 2010 Author Share Posted November 3, 2010 I plan to remove all possible rust then just use por as a preventative measure, i will be cutting out The area beetween the door and the rear wheel on both sides, putting new fenders and cutting out a small area of the floor pan, aswell as reconstructing the taillight area, and the spots on the hatch where the louvers made it rust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rejracer Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 (edited) Evapo rust is the best/safest rust REMOVAL product on the market. It completely removes rust, not cover it up or seal over it. So far I have used it to derust the inside of engine blocks (on running cars!). I bought a turbo car a few years ago and it had sat for 2+ years with plain water in the block and no radiator cap or upper coolant hose and not thermostat installed. I flushed the cooling system using the prestone products it would work fine until I revved the engine up past 4k. Then heavy rust scale would plug the radiator, it did this 3 or 4 times. After one treatment of the evapo-rust I never had a cooling system related problem again. I was surprised at all the debris I would get out of the system. With the old evapo rust solution I dropped in a pair of old fencing pliars my father found at our house when I was a kid. They were prob buried for 30 year when he found them. As a knick knack he kept them in the garage. I threw them in the treatment and left them for a week. I was able to get them working again, and the amazing thing is how smooth the action is on them is to this day. I plan on using the stuff on my car when I get into the body work. Evapo rust works by stealing the oxygen atom from Iron oxide, leaving just a iron/carbon coating on the metal. A quick wire brush off an your are then down to bare 100% rust free metal. When the rust removal is complete, the metal has a black coating on it which is easily removed with a wire brush/rag or something of that nature. After the rust is removed then you can prep and paint/coat the metal as appropriate. http://www.evapo-rust.com/ Edited November 4, 2010 by rejracer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyc Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 i'm currently in the middle of building my z....i had rust coming through all the seams...i went to town with a spot weld bit and took all the sheetmetal off the rear of the car and then blasted the car and coated with por15. i'm now in the middle of rebuilding the rockers...both inside and out so i will have completely rust free rockers with a good por15 coating. i didn't want to chance rust..esp with a car i plan on keeping for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calvin280zxt Posted November 5, 2010 Author Share Posted November 5, 2010 Just started cutting into mine today, lots of work ahead but its all fairly straight forward, the worst part is right behind the doors, looked pretty bad, but it was far worse under the quarter inch of bondo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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