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LS/T56/240z Project Mentor Wanted


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Just went by my buddy's house to double check some wiring on a stock Z-car so that I could un-snarl the rats nest I'm fighting with. He had just finished putting in the lowering springs and shocks I bought him for Christmas (outside on a rainy day in January). He took me for a test drive and it was great. He had previously cut his stock springs and the car was slamming all the way down the road-now it is smooth as silk. Same guy I gave my old L24 to, so I got to commune with my old L24 motor as we rolled down a country road to the sweet sound of triple webers and a single turbo muffler. Now we've got to get him defrosters so we can see where the h*** we are going! Not only is it fun to fix up our own cars, but it is really rewarding to watch others succeed. Thanks to everybody who is helping me finish this project. Thanks to whoever sold me those springs for $100! I think I'll be turning the key on the LS in the next few weeks.

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Got all the quick disconnect weatherpack connectors on the chassis and engine harnesses. Soldered the pins to make them stronger. Weatherpack connectors are really simple and cool. Am now putting looms on the chassis and engine wiring harnesses. This stuff is really tedious and time consuming. Really important to do a lot of test fitting-fan wiring once truly organized was several inches too long and I couldn't get the plub in the right place-had to redo fan wiring again. Hoping to work a little at night during this week so that I can fire motor up this weekend. I found it impossible to get a wrench on the collector bolts on the JTR Sanderson headers, so I had my bolts spot welded to the header collector to make mount pipes easier.

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Stayed up late last night to complete engine bay wiring harness. Only wiring in engine bay is on passenger side wit all quick disconnects soldered and crimped on. Wiring is in split loom and area at risk for header burn is covered in fiberglass header wrap. My hands hurt today.

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What do you guys think about me installing some flex line in the brake lines just as they exit the master cylinder? I'm thinking about this because I have had to change a vacuum booster before and I will probably have to adjust the little rod that is between the booster and the master cyl multiple times to get the length right. I am thinking about using stock 240z front wheel flex lines. Flex lines in this location should keep me from having to bleed brakes every time I remove my master cyl from the booster.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Flex lines to master cylinder done. Used front 240z stock flex lines. See before shots two posts back and after shots here. Hoping this mod will make adjusting the push rod between the vacuum booster and master cylinder easier. Also should make any vacuum booster maintenance easier.

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This weekends progress. Put engine in for final time (I think). I swear I installed and pulled that motor 10 times trying to get everything right. As everybody warned me, poly motor mounts were a PITA. I pray I dont have to pull the motor, or even lift it, to install the longtube headers. If I have to, I may just sell my longtubes off. They are at the ceramic coating place right now (or on the way). Don't know how long it will take to get them back, so I'm toying with installing the JTR headers that I have, just so I can get car running and start finding leaks, etc.

 

Spent most of weekend finalizing passenger side wiring harness for the engine. This is the harness that includes the hot wire to the alternator and starter, and also includes the primary ground wire for the battery-engine and battery-chassis. I used the GTO cables and cut them down a little, re-routed wires for maximum exhaust clearance and to avoid the tight spot between the lower steering u-joint and the alternator. Soldered new lugs on the cut cables. After cables were all sized and trial fit, I wrapped them in split loom, then wrapped the areas close to the exhaust in header wrap and secured it with metal ties. When i can drive car over to buddy with a sheetmetal brake, i will make a heat shield between header and wiring. Wrapped starter in a heat-reflective blanket. Tomorrow, I plan to finish fuel pump wiring (I can't seem to get under car for this while sun is still shining! Then, I think the only wiring I will have left is to hook up speedometer and tach. Then, when I have time, I'll start making wiring harnesses for racing aids like 2-step and line lock. Then heater, wipers and radio, R200 LSD conversion with CV axles, shortened rear LCAs (when will this end!!!!). Clutch line is installed and tightened, motor is totally in with torqued bolts and a fully installed driveshaft.

 

Tires are off for brake bleeding, then I'll bleed clutch line. Hope to buy fluids on Thursday and start filling on Friday. The coming weekend should be noisy-will post video if I can figure out how.

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Finished trimming shifter boot (kind of a sloppy job-would love ideas on this); shifter installed. Bled brakes. Can't get air out of clutch hydraulics-please send tips-bench bled clutch master cyl and using remote bleeder, but still fighting air (I think that is the problem). Antifreeze and trans oil in (messy job). Re-made flex fuel line-old version seemed too short and had a lot of tension on it-now it wiggles freely. Finally finished fuel pump wiring. All 4 wheels and tires mounted. Gonna put 5-10 gallons of fuel in it tomorrow-I haven't bought high-test in decades. Goal for tomorrow also includes wiring tach and cable-x speedo and fixing stereo wiring I accidentally yanked out. May also re-install rear swaybar.

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Edited by RebekahsZ
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It runs and drives. Two buddies came over this afternoon: John from Sunday school and Jake (Jacob1971 from this forum. Well, we had a productive afternoon. Installed JTR headers and dump tubes. Cranked up car-it started on the second turn of the key-it was awesome. The car immediately ran perfectly. Oil pressure gauge worked, Temp gauge worked, radiator fan worked, fuel pump was not especially loud. Looked for a long time looking for oil, water and fuel leaks but found none. It took me forever to get car in reverse because I'm used to a 5-speed. Car sounds amazing with straight pipes. I've tried to make some videos, but they are turned sideways and the files are probably pretty big. Took car for test drive-these swaps are scary fast. The Drive By Wire gas pedal works perfectly, but it is very light, so it will be easy to get carried away with the go pedal. I've got to adjust my brake linkage rod between the booster and the master cylinder-I haven't got much pedal left over. The clutch pedal rod is adjusted all the way out, but I can't tell if tires are spinning or if clutch is slipping. Went around the block taking friends and family on joy rides. By the end of the fourth trip around the block, the rear brake calipers were smoking and stinking-seems I've got some dragging brakes to figure out. Looked under car and I thought I saw brake fluid, but it may have been just water from a puddle just before my driveway. I'm pooped and calling it a successful day. I'll find any leaks from the puddles I expect to find tomorrow. Thanks to everybody on the forum who has helped me get to this point.

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Strange how all the speed bumps along the build don't seem so bad now, right? :) Great looking car Keith, good to see her running!

 

What is the elbow off of the throttle body from? Looks like it would be perfect for a cold air box I want to build.

 

Joe

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Celebratory burn out will have to wait until I have the line lock wired and will not be done in my neighborhood-my neighbors have been VERY UNDERSTANDING. I'm a little scared of this thing. Plus, my rear brakes are dragging BAD-will start trouble shooting Tuesday night. The elbow on the cold air intake is the stock one from the 2006 GTO LS2-it fit perfectly; I have an extra one that I cut off a bit that you could have for postage, but I pretty much ruined it. I am really pleased with how nice the cold air intake turned out. The shifter "boot" is the 1972 240z boot that I trimmed carefully with wire cutters-it is not perfect and I may try to come up with something better. I wish my car were a 1970 model because it would be easier to do side exhaust in front of back tires: the 1972 has a seatbelt recess that gets in the way. Thanks for all the support from HybridZ.

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Nice job, Keith. Isn't it nice working on a modern fuelie engine? One or two cranks and you're running, timing is perfect, etc. I found that flooring it in 3rd at 2500 was just as thrilling as full throttle to redline, riding that wave of mid range torque. I hope that's your tire spinning and not the clutch. I had a really tough time getting my LS7 clutch/slave bled properly.

 

Do yourself a favor and don't add up all the receipts, it's a little alarming!

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