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LSx s30 Longtube group buy thread


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Cliff notes:

 

Passenger side - remove starter, slip header in, re-install starter, bolt header up

 

Drivers side - Pull motor mount bolt, lift engine (jack) slip header in, lower engine, install motor mount bolt (from the front was easier on mine - had to remove alternator), bolt header up.

 

REQUIRED: Start it up to wake the neighbors with open headers :lol:

Edited by SUNNY Z
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Sunny-did you have to notch the driver side JCI motor mount brace? How bad does that appear to weaken the brace?

 

Mine is the one in the pictures, so yes.

 

Personally (as did blake) think that brace is not only about 3 times as big as it needs to be, but an eyesore as well. I would feel comfortable cutting half of the brace out (or more), and still maintain PLENTY of structural integrity. In the future, I plan to build my own mounts, and get rid of this hunk o steel that takes up room.

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Just got an email from Blake asking me to pay the $245 to pay for ceramic coating upgrade. He's ready to send them off to coating place. I gladly sent him the money via PayPal! Getting fired up! Will send pics when they arrive. Just bought a little heat blanket for my starter.

Did you get your ceramic coated headers yet? I asked Blake to send mine off to be ceramic coated and he mentioned he was sending 2 sets including mine. I assume the other one was for you.

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Began the install this evening. Figured I'd spend about a half hour test fitting the left/driver side, 2 hours later I'm closer...

 

I think the header went in & out about 30 times! Began [sortofish] following Blakes directions. Remove brake master and pull to the side, disconnect steering rod at coupler, set aside.

 

Then I realized it would be easier to completely remove the steering rod but the only way to do that is to also remove the john's mount-so I did that also. Now I'm fighting so the 'while I'm at it's' don't completely take over. I wire brush, clean and lube the steering rod ends [so they re-assemble easier], decide that the john's mount needs a few mods for easier install and attempt to zone in on where the material needs to be removed.

 

Wow are these a tight fit but they look awesome and can't wait to hear it fire up! Yes, she will be fired up open tubes...

 

Enough for tonight-too cold in my unheated upstate NY garage.

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For how tight the fit is I offer these pictures. I can't provide any advice on installation as my situation is unique. The car is using my custom made Corvette C5 motor mount approach and is still in the primered shell phase. I am able to insert the motor from the bottom with the driver's side header installed then drop the passenger side header in from the top. It is a tight fit though. Currently my driver's side collector hits the underbody. The driver's side is also VERY close to the tension rod bucket. I am a little concerned about motor movement under torque causing impact. The other unknown is how much closer these tolerances become upon thermal expansion. All this being said I absolutely love them.

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post-4776-012063800 1330694704_thumb.jpg

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I will be updating the install instructions with some input of my own install then uploading when complete. Left [driver] side is in and they are tight! I will say it has taken me about 4 hours total to get the left side in-not because I'm completely incompetent but wanted to do the job right. At this point I do not anticipate needing to remove any material from the t/c bucket and the collector does not touch the body. The header is about 3/16" from the steering rod-very close. The 'rub' marks you see on the header & steering rod are from when the header was not yet bolted in. med_gallery_176_1011_520240.jpg Removed the johns' cars mount and had Jimmy Z [he makes the billet parts sold on Hybridz] put the mount on the mill for a few mods. First was to 'slot' the single/top hole on the mount that is sandwiched between the crossmember & framerail to allow easier alignment for that bolt. Next, enlarge +1 size the engine mount bolt [long one] holes for easier alignment-worked great. Remove the guesstimated material from the rear of the mount [see pic] for header clearance. Where my finger is pointing is about as far as needed to remove-any more material removed toward the upright part of the mount is not really necessary. med_gallery_176_1011_726413.jpg More later... Left side install complete! med_gallery_176_1011_419371.jpg

 

So, I just couldn't stay away and figured on trying the right/passenger side. Pulled the starter completely [figured the header would be in/out at least twice so wanted to make it a bit simpler]. Installed the header to determine how much t/c bucket trimming was needed. Broke out the cut off wheel and trimmed that piece-done. Next hurdle-the header bisects the floor as it point to the rear of the car, instead of paralleling the tranny [see pic] and needs to be shortened or turned or both. Looks to be about 15 degrees of ''bend" needed. Will work on that next, done for today.

med_gallery_176_1011_46102.jpg

 

You are welcome sir! From the beginning I had hoped for long tubes that met all our criteria-we are nearly 100%!

Mine just came in, won't be able to test fit them for a while, but they look great! Thanks again for arranging this 1 tuff z.
Edited by 1 tuff z
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1tuffz-you da man! I don't know why you are bothered by the collector alignment, it looks fine. It is your fuel line that is in the wrong place!

 

I was a little worried that perhaps Blake wouldn't test fit the set with the v-band flange welded on. Honestly, the problems you are running into are the same kind of thing that I've been working on for the past year on my swap. It is not a deterrent. I really appreciate your posts to show us that this is not just an "afternoon job."

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Thanks for the compliment. It is my goal that once complete I will 'edit' the install instructions with pics and upload them to the thread as well as communicate with Blake the changes/steps/etc. I want the exhaust to run between the body and tranny-providing the best ground clearance. I believe that if the collector [right side] is not altered it will not provide what [at least for me] what is optimum...

1tuffz-you da man! I don't know why you are bothered by the collector alignment, it looks fine. It is your fuel line that is in the wrong place!

 

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So I was working from home and these puppies showed up. Glad I was home and didn't miss the shipment. Have a question for you guys. All but one runner on the inside is welded all around. This one runner is only welded shut from the outside. Does everyone have the same thing? I'm tempted to have it welded. Thoughts?

 

Unwelded from inside of the runner

IMG_9916.jpg

 

All other runners are welded like this:

IMG_9917.jpg

 

Some more pics for fun:

 

IMG_9925.jpg

IMG_9914.jpg

IMG_9923.jpg

IMG_9919.jpg

IMG_9920.jpg

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Looks like they just missed that one, don't see a reason to weld up the other 7 and not do 1.

 

Yea but this one was the only one where the entire outside of the runner was welded shut instead of the inside. IDK I'll call Blake and see what's up. Text me when you get yours and lmk if yours is the same.

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