Litman Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Same with mine. Appears to be purposeful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAFantaZ Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Yeah I noticed some partially welded Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 I guess my set is now at rags house! Jeff let us know what Blake says if you call him. Wonder what his reasoning is. Maybe I will sell my spare LS1 to fund a head swap and install of the new LTs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
417 Motorsports Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Hello Guys, Ive been lurking and watching this thread from time to time and have seen all the questions and concerns and tried to address them all during the build. Its been nice working with David and Jossie on the project. You all have a great member to take it upon himself to put together something like this and help the entire community not to mention a member that gave up 6 months of what could have been drive time, to donate his car. I cannot apologize enough for the amount of time this has taken. I know it was ALOT longer then anticipated, but as David had mentioned we are a small shop that doesn't get into much production runs like we did for this application and some of the delays were out of my hands. Most of you should have your headers by now with the exception of a few which should be leaving shortly (due to coatings). As some of you have noticed the headers are a squeeze and very tight in some areas but rest assured they DO fit LOL just stick to the instructions. I now know why all the others have failed and have not came through with the past promises!!! I will go ahead and address the questions about the cylinder #2 primary tube. This tube WAS purposely welded on the outside of the runner only due to the fitment of the way the tube met the flange. If you look at the tube closely you will notice that the cut was not made square to the tangent of the bend and therefor did not allow the tube to slide into the flange like the rest of the tubes. There is no need to have this welded on the inside also, and if this is done it could cause premature failure due to thermal expansion. The same reason the outside of the rest of the tubes are only welded for a short area on the outside while the inside is welded 100%. If you have any more questions please feel free to ask, and I will check back shortly. I am still working on a resolution to the gaskets and if this falls through i will just issue a credit back to the buyers. Cheers Blake Hughes Btw im a fellow LSX 240 owner, its just a few years newer 370", 11:1, e85, 91.5mm, PTC,F.A.S.T, Glide, 9" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi303 Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Geeze, that turbo looks almost as big as the rest of the motor! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueshark123 Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Thanks for the clarification Blake. You can ignore my email and voicemail lol. Nice S14. The R33 front looks good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 Blake, thanks for the kind words and follow up. Josey & I did this for the simple reason to get long tubes in our LSx Z's! Yes, they are tight but do certainly fit. The other aspect to consider is we're dealing with hundreds of thousands of Z's from 1970-1978 and there are some slight body variances over that 9 year period which may require some tweaking for each of our Z's. I can't wait to finish the install, get the downstream exhaust completed and on the dyno to see what she'll put down now. I also want to hear the difference between the old shorties [open] and the new LT's [open] before the exhaust is fabbed-hopefully I can capture some video and post here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAFantaZ Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Thanks to these good people ^^ Passenger side is on my car and fits perfect. Note: Had to evacuate AC hoses for this. P.S. - Now we need a group buy for a 4" straight intake kit featuring slanted radiator and accommodation for AC condenser and/or intercooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAFantaZ Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 A couple of fitment pics on mine before v-bands Passenger side... Driver side... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAFantaZ Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Got the car on the Mustang dyno today and there was a gain of +17hp at the wheels. It was a lot warmer today (80s) than my last pull there (40s or 50s) Jan: Sanderson shorty headers 428 rwhp wcf Mustang dyno (40s or 50s) Feb: Sanderson shorty headers 502 rwhp wcf DynoJet dyno (60s or 70s) Mar: Blake Hughes' LT headers 445 rwhp wcf Mustang dyno (80s) So that's a definite healthy gain with no other mods but headers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mxgsfmdpx Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Drooooooooooool!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Got the car on the Mustang dyno today and there was a gain of +17hp at the wheels. It was a lot warmer today (80s) than my last pull there (40s or 50s) Jan: Sanderson shorty headers 428 rwhp wcf Mustang dyno (40s or 50s) Feb: Sanderson shorty headers 502 rwhp wcf DynoJet dyno (60s or 70s) Mar: Blake Hughes' LT headers 445 rwhp wcf Mustang dyno (80s) So that's a definite healthy gain with no other mods but headers FYI, the dyno numbers you're getting are likely "corrected" so temperature differences are already accounted for. Any overlaid dyno sheets from the Mustang dyno? Glad to see the hard work led to some gains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atomp3 Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 If you get a chance, could you post the before after dyno graphs? I'm curious to see the difference in low-mid range Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 (edited) Thanks sooooo much for this feedback!! JustaFantaZ - Is your car 240/260/ or 280z? Edited March 16, 2012 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAFantaZ Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 ^^It's a 1975 280Z I'll get the dyno sheet and scan it after I get back from Tx2k12. Getting ready for a really cool car meet in Katy, Texas at the moment! And yeah those are weather corrected numbers lol...I didn't even need to mention temps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 That is amazing - 72 hp difference between brands of dynos????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 That is amazing - 72 hp difference between brands of dynos????? Oh yeah. Even dynos of the same brand can have 20-40 hp differences. Justafantaz - My buddy sent me pics of your car at last night TX2K12! He's on the 1320 video crew. Too cool man. Glad to see there's a good gain in power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAFantaZ Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Oh yeah. Even dynos of the same brand can have 20-40 hp differences. Justafantaz - My buddy sent me pics of your car at last night TX2K12! He's on the 1320 video crew. Too cool man. Glad to see there's a good gain in power. Really? Was it at Frank-N-Stein's? Where can I find them...did they post them to their Website? Yeah that is cool. I saw a few people taking pics when I got to the meet Friday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 (edited) That is amazing - 72 hp difference between brands of dynos????? Yep. Dynojets are plain, inertial-drum dynos, which measure how quickly your wheels can spin up a drum of known weight. Power is calculated as Torque X Speed. Torque is calculated using T=Ia, I being rotational inertia of the drum and a being acceleration of the drum. This is a less accurate way of measuring actual power, since you're inferring power from how quickly you accelerate the drum. This also means that changing things like flywheels, brake rotors, tires, driveshafts, etc. will show a change in hp on a Dynojet, even though your engine isn't making any more power. Conversely, something like a Mustang dyno is a "brake" dynamometer, which uses a fluid or electromagnetism to put a force on the roller and against the wheels. These types of dynos measure (not calculate) actual torque delivered to the drum by way of a lever arm connected to the brake and a load cell that measures force at the end of the lever arm. This force is used to calculate torque, which is then used to calculate power, using Power = Torque X RPM. Therefore, a brake dyno (e.g. Mustang) provides a much more accurate depiction of actual power than a purely inertial dyno (e.g. Dynojet). My apologies for the tangent! Edited March 20, 2012 by Leon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted March 19, 2012 Author Share Posted March 19, 2012 (edited) Update on my LT's. Decided the right side collector exit position was too close to the floor to reasonably route the exhaust and devised a plan. After much consideration I estimated a 15 degree change to the angle would bring the 'dump' where it would fit best. So, I had the collector cut closely to where the pipes join, then tack welded a 15 degree 1g bend in it's place-pics below show how it looks on the test fit. Clears the floor nicely and nearly parallels the taper of the tranny. A bit different perspective This shows before but not taken from the best place to show how it would hit the floor... Next step is to finish the welds, install the oxygen sensor bung, install the header and drive to the shop so they can complete the exhaust [bridge the gap between the LT's and the existing 3" single that begins just past the tranny! Edited March 19, 2012 by 1 tuff z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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