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240z rb swap


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Hey do you guys think a pristine 240Z would bring more money (we are building this car for resale) with a mildly built RB25 (350-400hp) or a fully built RB25 making 700hp ? Keep in mind this car has a stock body, no flares and 225 50zr16 tires.

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Hey do you guys think a pristine 240Z would bring more money (we are building this car for resale) with a mildly built RB25 (350-400hp) or a fully built RB25 making 700hp ? Keep in mind this car has a stock body, no flares and 225 50zr16 tires.

 

Some pics of the beauty.

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post-12620-011452500 1303603985_thumb.jpg

post-12620-030067800 1303604011_thumb.jpg

post-12620-064813100 1303604059_thumb.jpg

post-12620-074866100 1303604088_thumb.jpg

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Amazing project! How you guys make any profit of sort of this is crazy. The asking price must be very high.

 

IMHO, a stock refreshed rb25 would be great. A built rb in a Z is pointless unless its running some seriously wide, sticky rubber... whoever buys this car will be buying it for the all around performance. I see you have upgraded the brakes and suspension.. very nice.

I recommend a stock rb25 with the basic upgrades (arp, good clutch, etc) it will be running at 400hp+ all day long.

I have a stock rb26 running 450+ and plan to push it further. Nissans are very stout and a built motor will take away from the oem drivability and comfort. try to run this beast on stock cams so the customer will experience a nice idle and good off boost response. gt3076r comes to mind for a turbo.

please post pics when done... its an amazing start to a beautiful car.

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an absolutely bone stock rb26 will make more then enough power to make anyone happy. it would cost you more to build a rb25 then the difference in price would justify. plus more would be interested in the 26 then the 25. just my 2 cents.

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Putting in a nicer engine, yes will improve the value of the car, but in many cases the cost of upgrades is almost never recovered in the resale of the car. Datsuns aren't particularly well known for their resale value, so you might find it hard to recoup the whole cost of the upgrades you've done to the car, (unless you've cut a lot of corners, which wouldn't be exactly ethical) It looks like you're doing a good job fixing up the car already, outwardly the paint and all looks amazing, and an RB25 or rb26 would either be a nice addition, how much value would they add over the cost of installing them, would be hard to say, especially in leu of replacing a running clean L24, or built L28.

 

It's not always the cost of parts too, it's the sweat you put into the car too that you'll never get paid for. Now if you were restoring cars like mustangs or classic corvettes, where there is a much larger collector base, then you might warrant the cost and time involved in such a job. Who knows though, you might get lucky and find a buyer who will love the finished product. Z's just don't really command the high price that they should for the advanced engineering they were when they were new.

 

Best thing I can say is Good luck, and it looks nice!

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My car puts down 450 on a sr20, with simple change of hot side ill be looking at 530-550. That was my goal until I actually got to drive it after the tune, 450 in s30 is nuts, its such a light car. I can't imagine power levels of 600+, I already spin through 1-2 and most 3rd.

I had to reinforce rails as they were starting to twist.

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My car puts down 450 on a sr20, with simple change of hot side ill be looking at 530-550.

 

 

oh boy! A simple change of a hotside will net 100hp! Must be some super crazy exhaust gas drawing turbine housing powered by nuclear fission!

Edited by 240zdan
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oh boy! A simple change of a hotside will net 100hp! Must be some super crazy exhaust gas drawing turbine housing powered by nuclear fission!

oh how sarcastic!

I upgraded the turbo to gtx series and kept my old very small hot side, basically on a fully built sr20det I dont get any gains over 20 psi, at 20 psi is at 450. Motor is built for 28-30.

or maybe You have better idea of whats holding it back eh? Everything else is new, block and head received port an polish.

Edited by MrPhean
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oh how sarcastic!

I upgraded the turbo to gtx series and kept my old very small hot side, basically on a fully built sr20det I dont get any gains over 20 psi, at 20 psi is at 450. Motor is built for 28-30.

or maybe You have better idea of whats holding it back eh? Everything else is new, block and head received port an polish.

 

I'm guessing you mean a change of the hot side plus 8 to 10 psi of boost to make the added 100hp?

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I'm guessing you mean a change of the hot side plus 8 to 10 psi of boost to make the added 100hp?

 

Argh....

 

To complete the threadjack and thoroughly change the subject---all three of the 'combatants' in this digression are wrong. The change to the GTX will give you more power at the exact same boost levels---I can imagine EXACTLY the dyno chart he has at 20psi it's the same one we are getting on JeffP's car around 17-18psi. Car makes more power at 17psi than it does at 20, but at a higher RPM. Changing to a GTX which has more mass flow capability at a given pressure ratio will result in more air at the same PSI. This means the car will make more power without an increase in indicated boost levels. In his case, the power peak will move to 7500+ at 17psi, rather than being stuck and flatlining at 7000 and up at 20psi. (Making slightly more at 17 and 7500 than at 20 and 7000.)

 

Boost doesn't make horsepower, guys. FLOW makes horsepower! Boost is merely an indication to resistance of flow.

 

Given the same everything save changing to a GTX turbocharger, the car will make MORE horsepower at each given boost level than it did previously.

 

And before you guys argue the point, swap the turbo and check it out...then come back to the thread.

 

This is rooted in a basic misunderstanding of how the turbocharger works, and what is actually making the power in a turbocharged engine.

:rolleyes:

Edited by Tony D
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