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Jumping in here, I am also currently swapping my L28 to front sump and had a few questions. What oil pan are you using? I found a maxima diesel front sump pan. For drilling the dip stick tube, did you go through the oil passage the rear oil pickup uses? I extended the oil pickup tube rather than drilling the front one out, and I'm concerned the dip stick with interfere with the oil flow. Thanks!

My toy house 71 240, 83 280ZX turbo and my built 78 El CaminoSS.

Yes, the front strut tower reinforcement is connected thru the firewall. Attached is a photo that kinda shows it off, these are slightly old pictures taken by the welder prior to taking delivery. Cage has since been finished and had gussets added to the A-pillars. The fender braces from Apex are located inside the front fender outside of the driver cabin. I also have them, not sure if I'll end up using them, cage installer wasn't convinced they really do much other than maybe preventing the front wheels from coming into the cabin during a head-on collision. Plinth location is the deciding factor in how your door bars and subsequent firewall > strut tower bars will/won't interfere with your pedal box. My door bars are pushing right to the outer edge of footwell and angle up from the bottom of the A pillar bar to fit my left if needed. Not sure what pedals you're using but I have a Tilton triple master setup that's going in so the world is my oyster so to speak in terms of pedal placement. This dude's pedal setup looks super neato and I would like to replicate the adjustment mechanism.

Hey Dave, did you have any luck getting a driveshaft done? I had to have a custom one done here in Dallas. I’ll get you the name of the place if you still need it.

do you have a photo of how the front strut tower bar goes thru the driver side firewall? I'm in the process of finishing up my cage and was considering running a few bars thru the firewall like yours but the driver side has more stuff (clutch master/pedal) in the way for a straight shot. I don't know how tall you are but i stayed just in front of the wheel well for the main hoop and its definitely a bit tight for seat position so up on the rear tube will be helpful for that.

You are flying true this! Love to see your progress!

I find the front strut brace very interesting, is it connected to the cage thru the firewall? I suspect this will mainly reinforce the strut tower from moving front to back. Will you also be adding a front strut brace for side to side reinforcement? I will be sending my 280z off soon for replacement 3mm (instead of 1,5mm) frame rails from Apex together with there front fender braces as they where not that expensive and my body shop won’t charge me extra for welding them. I wonder how different the fender braces will be in comparison.

Good to have you back! Do you have some pictures of the cars and what’s been done to them?

Unrelated update but reasons as to why there's been a lack of updates to this thread: Got a new job that demands a lot more of my time so unfortunately less time to optimize the SLA conversion. Upside however is that I'm learning NX which seems to be some next level software. I think this design is going to take one more fundamental change to really get the dynamic geometries perfect but the work I have so far has been a pretty excellent starting point. The car is also back from the rust repair shop and the cage shop, needless to say my wallet is in a lot of pain at the moment (especially with the S54 being built) but we do these things not because they are easy but because they are hard and we hate money. Anyway, enjoy some photos of the cage in the meantime.

03-08-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: I got the rollbar in, a little interior painting around those areas, and then I cut the thick steel plates for my "cross bar" section going on the floor from the door jamb right in front of the seats, over the tunnel down the other side and to the other door jamb. Ready for the welder! I also did a little bit of interior parts painting, but the floor plates took quite a awhile. PICS:

Got the new camshaft installed today.

Yeah, good point. It's a new feature we're trying out. We're still working out the kinks; so I apologize in advance if you're receiving duplicate notifications. Thanks for the feedback!

That would be a good choice if you can't go center inlet/outlet. Displacement doesn't translate to sharper pulses like compression does...

Low-ish compression, but very high displacement in my case. Current 461 cubic inches. Might eventually get one of those 598" short blocks and move my existing parts over. Would you recommend something like this: https://www.dynomax.com/mufflers/super-turbo-mufflers/super-turbo-offset-centered.html ? Maybe the 17769 model (3" in/out, largest in that series... I'd use two, of course).

I liked the email reminder! I think annually would be sufficient.

03-07-2026. ATLAS Z UPDATE: I started with the intercooler piping on the turbo side, and have it ready for welding, sanding and polishing. I got started on the intake side, but ran out of parts. Since I had to pull the intake, I enjoyed the easy access to that side of the engine, and installed my new AC Delco starter, and wired the solenoid and main batt power on it. I also was able to plug in the harness points on that side of the engine, install the crank position sensor and both knock sensors, all new GM stuff. Started on the alternator bracket modifying, much more on that to do. Feel got cold, called it a day. PICS

Welcome back. Let’s see some pics.

I have been here for long rime, just not lately. I have a nice 83 280ZX Turbo. Which started me on this site. I just modified ,restored a 71 240Z. Both are 5 speeds. I love them both.

Part 7-More work on the Rear of the Hatch area to install the 370 Rear Suspension Subframe. The Entire Rear Deck and Frame must be removed to make it fit. The Workmanship is excellent and the Shop High Tech Equipment makes this big job alot easier. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v-EY6HaMiWFE48&t37s ----

03-06-2026 ATLAZ Z UPDATE. Well, today was Seat Belt Day! When the tub and walls need a cleaning, you go ahead and grab your 52 year old belts, some pliers and duct tape to hold them extended and grab a heavy duty brush, some dish washing detergent and get to it! The water going down the drain was a dark brown soup. Dirt, dust, skin, body oils, everything. You know they never get cleaned. Once dry I will have to paint the housing with the SEM Interior paint, but they will be nice. Oh and the tub is all clean and disinfected with Pine Sol! PICS:

I agree, and once driving, it will be easy to stop at a muffler shop and put it up in the air and weld a plate or so on there. Well, it has gussets. I think a 4 inch wide, 1/4 thick plate front and back would be a good move. Thanks buddy.

Since that broken rear differential a lot has happened.

Long time no update. Got new wheels and tires and then got bored and made a straight pipe for it. Then shortly after broke my diff which leads to my next post. 87f15466ad6340caabd2639f552ed67b.mov

Done. I merged your new account ("nixkarz") with your old account ("nixcars"); and kept the old account name. Try logging in/logging out to ensure that the new merged account is working correctly for you. I think that's what you were wanting; but if not, shoot me a PM and we'll get it sorted for you. Cheers.

Hi, no I don't have it figured out sorry. I've had to create a new account just to be able to make contact with you. I'd like to get my old account back & log in with it please. Any chance you can sort this out for me? Account username is nixcars & email is nixcars@exemail.com.au Thanx