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Nigel last won the day on August 14 2013

Nigel had the most liked content!

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About Nigel

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  • Birthday 03/23/1971

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    Toronto, Ontario, Canada
  1. Check out my solution to this, starting with picture 37... http://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041/DSC04484JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg-276268 It's held up for going on 10 years now. Nigel
  2. That definitely won't work with them oriented like that. You'll probably need to take them off, put a block of wood in the caliper and hold them with the bleeder pointing up while you bleed them. I was never a fan of these SM kits because of this. Nigel
  3. You may have the rear calipers on the wrong side of the car and they are not being bled properly (trapped air). The bleeder has to be pointing up. Nigel
  4. Need help with cooling!

    I was talking to a local club member this past weekend who has a 280ZX turbo with the stock webbed intake manifold. His injector cooling fan just died, and he’s now having hot start issues. So, the webbed manifold doesn’t appear to be the solution. After everything I’ve tried, the only thing I’ve found that works is to add a delayed off timer to my electric rad fan circuit. The timer keeps the fan circuit energized for X amount of time after the engine is shut off. I currently have it set to 8 minutes, and that appears to be working well. I also have a variable speed controller for my fan, so it only runs as hard as is needed. I’m using this Velleman time delay relay: http://www.vellemanusa.com/products/view/?country=us&lang=enu&id=525830 I have a power relay for the fuel injection circuit, and I use the NC contact of that relay to start the delayed off timer when the ignition is switched off. And I'm using this fan speed controller, with it's own temp sender: http://www.spal-usa.com/fans/automated/accessories/fanpwmV3.html I might still try a 70C thermostat. But I drive the car well into the fall, with temperatures in the 0C to 10C range. Not sure how the engine will like that... Nigel
  5. New Product: 240Z Power Brake Booster

    I'm pretty sure my '73 240Z came with the later 260/280Z 8.5" booster from the factory. I'll try to remember to check this weekend. It definitely has the later firewall mounted proportioning valve. So, they did start transitioning to the 260/280Z parts at some point in the 240Z's life cycle. I also discovered that the heater control valve on my Z is unique to the '73. The part you and everyone else advertises as fitting 1970-1973 240Z's will definitely not fit my '73 Z at all. The 260Z valve appears to be different yet again. Nigel
  6. Before I posted, I read through the previous posts and I did find mention of those issues. Very frustrating, particularly with our small sample size. With only a month to go until Z-Con, I really don't have time for this. I'll be livid if the replacement has issues too. Nigel
  7. I started prepping my new Wilwood master cylinder for installation and discovered this... The mangled cone fitting by itself wouldn't have been a big deal. I could have swapped in the fitting from my 280ZX M/C. But there's no way I'm trusting the cone fitting to seal in the bore of the M/C with those gouges! I don't have time for this!!! Nigel
  8. L6 turbo tube header

    No offence intended, but why should we believe you're any more likely to make this happen than the countless others who have started down this path and never delivered? Let's see a prototype and some realistic pricing first... Nigel
  9. Not actually correct. Nissan started making changes to the brake system during 240Z production, including the larger brake booster. I don't know off hand exactly when the changes were implemented, but my '73 240Z has the larger booster, the later master cylinder, and the firewall mounted brake proportioning valve that are found on the 260Z and 280Z. It still had the earlier style drums though. Nigel
  10. Side mirrors that don't suck

    OK, well that's weird. I can't see how that could possibly work. Is the rod removable? Nigel
  11. Side mirrors that don't suck

    There is no adjustment knob. You move the mirror directly by hand. Nigel
  12. Side mirrors that don't suck

    There's a plate that gets riveted to the window frame and screwed to the chrome strip along the top of the door. The mirror gets attached to that plate. So, you have to drill three holes in the window frame and two holes in the chrome strip. No holes in the sheet metal of the door though. Nigel
  13. Side mirrors that don't suck

    The flush mount mirrors work well and look good. I used them for several years before switching to JDM wing mirrors. Nigel
  14. '73 240Z's have the later style trans mount. Nigel