Nigel

I don’t have my Mac solenoid in front of me, but assuming it matches the pictures I found online, the ports on the solenoid are labeled with numbers. Looking at the nameplate side of the solenoid, the ports are numbered 2, 3, 1 from left to right, with port 3 being under the nameplate. This translates into the following labeling in the HDi manual: 1: P 2: A 3: R For your application (external WG), the solenoid will be connected exactly as shown on page 9 of the HDi manual. So, port 1(P) will connect to the turbo, and port 2(A) will be connected the upper port on the WG. Port 3(R) is left open. Note that the drawing in the manual could be misinterpreted and read as port 3 being the “P” port, since the arrow does somewhat look like it’s pointing at port 3 (the middle port). Perhaps that’s the source of your confusion, because you said that when you blew into the “P” port when the solenoid was de-energized, it was venting out a side port? If you are blowing into the actual P port (port 1) when de-energized, 1(P) is blocked with no airflow possible, and 2(A) to 3(R) is open. When energized, 3(R) is blocked and 2(A) to 1(P) is open. In operation, this means that when the solenoid is energized, boost pressure passes through port 1(P) to port 2(A), applying boost pressure to the top side of the WG and preventing it from opening, which is how boost greater than the WG spring pressure is achieved. When de-energized, the upper port on the WG is vented to atmosphere from port 2(A) to port 3(R), allowing the WG to open. By rapidly shuttling between these two states, boost pressure above the WG spring can be controlled. As a failsafe, since the de-energized state of the solenoid leaves the upper port on the WG vented to atmosphere (2(A) to 3(R)), the WG spring will then control the boost level, should the solenoid loose power for whatever reason.

Glad to see my review is being helpful. I'm still running my HDi boost controller all these years later, and it's never given me any grief. Yes, your interpretation is correct. Here's a couple of pictures that will hopefully explain it better...

From 2005 https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/40439-effect-of-fpr-mounting-location-on-afrs-long/ Unfortunately, the links to all the pictures are now dead, and I"m not sure if I even have the originals anymore. Nigel

It's nearly a $2000 price difference!!!

Check out my solution to this, starting with picture 37... http://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041/DSC04484JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg-276268 It's held up for going on 10 years now. Nigel

That definitely won't work with them oriented like that. You'll probably need to take them off, put a block of wood in the caliper and hold them with the bleeder pointing up while you bleed them. I was never a fan of these SM kits because of this. Nigel

You may have the rear calipers on the wrong side of the car and they are not being bled properly (trapped air). The bleeder has to be pointing up. Nigel

I was talking to a local club member this past weekend who has a 280ZX turbo with the stock webbed intake manifold. His injector cooling fan just died, and he’s now having hot start issues. So, the webbed manifold doesn’t appear to be the solution. After everything I’ve tried, the only thing I’ve found that works is to add a delayed off timer to my electric rad fan circuit. The timer keeps the fan circuit energized for X amount of time after the engine is shut off. I currently have it set to 8 minutes, and that appears to be working well. I also have a variable speed controller for my fan, so it only runs as hard as is needed. I’m using this Velleman time delay relay: http://www.vellemanusa.com/products/view/?country=us&lang=enu&id=525830 I have a power relay for the fuel injection circuit, and I use the NC contact of that relay to start the delayed off timer when the ignition is switched off. And I'm using this fan speed controller, with it's own temp sender: http://www.spal-usa.com/fans/automated/accessories/fanpwmV3.html I might still try a 70C thermostat. But I drive the car well into the fall, with temperatures in the 0C to 10C range. Not sure how the engine will like that... Nigel

Before I posted, I read through the previous posts and I did find mention of those issues. Very frustrating, particularly with our small sample size. With only a month to go until Z-Con, I really don't have time for this. I'll be livid if the replacement has issues too. Nigel

I started prepping my new Wilwood master cylinder for installation and discovered this... The mangled cone fitting by itself wouldn't have been a big deal. I could have swapped in the fitting from my 280ZX M/C. But there's no way I'm trusting the cone fitting to seal in the bore of the M/C with those gouges! I don't have time for this!!! Nigel

No offence intended, but why should we believe you're any more likely to make this happen than the countless others who have started down this path and never delivered? Let's see a prototype and some realistic pricing first... Nigel

Exactly the same as my 240Z

Not actually correct. Nissan started making changes to the brake system during 240Z production, including the larger brake booster. I don't know off hand exactly when the changes were implemented, but my '73 240Z has the larger booster, the later master cylinder, and the firewall mounted brake proportioning valve that are found on the 260Z and 280Z. It still had the earlier style drums though. Nigel

OK, well that's weird. I can't see how that could possibly work. Is the rod removable? Nigel

There is no adjustment knob. You move the mirror directly by hand. Nigel