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mtnickel last won the day on January 17

mtnickel had the most liked content!

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About mtnickel

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  • Birthday 05/15/1984

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    Surrey, BC, CANADA
  • Interests
    Most cars, Audio/speakers, technology, woodworking.

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  1. mtnickel

    Z31T axle swap CAN fit

    Messaged. Let me know. Previous user waiting to ship. You’re next.
  2. mtnickel

    Z31T axle swap CAN fit

    We’ll have to figure out whether it’s the SS axles or some other discrepancy maybe between 240 and 280 models. One thing I overlooked is that my rear struts are sectioned about 1”, so my “full droop” may not be as long as others. But I thought the 260/280z sat higher with a bigger isolator which would somewhat negate that. I’ll see how other regular nonVlsd guys fare. So far no other complaints. Thanks for the post!
  3. mtnickel

    Z31T axle swap CAN fit

    I believe I had a FS post started if you search the classifieds. They are available
  4. mtnickel

    What about EFR 7064? Its one sale...

    So you run the 6258 on the L28ET? i'm debating between the 6758 and 7163 on my RB25. From the numbers, it looks like the 6758 can get me pretty close to my 370whp goal (little over 425 hp). Plus it will spool quicker than the 7163, however it will probably be a power band that dies off in the higher RPM. Additionally, there is something to be said about turbine efficiency...the 7163 will probably make more power at a better pressure ratio with less back pressure. Decisions decisions.
  5. mtnickel


    I ran the same Volvo Fan. Built a shroud from fibreglass...sort of a fun project. If you can find a parts volvo, The relay system on it is very robust; comes with nice connectors already and also provision for high and low speed fan control.
  6. mtnickel

    Which CV kits are best for an R200 240Z?

    Ya, weld on adapters aren’t an ideal solution, and we are at the mercy of stock stubs. But all in all, it was the cheapest decent solution I could come up with. Newzed With my adapters, it’s still a close fit at full droop and I would recommend flipping the cages. But that only takes about 10 minutes to do. Saves the 3.5 odd mm. And they are maybe a little more outboard of Joe’s since they even require to grind the stub axle down a shade. Joe may have been able to make his even more outward provided you could trim more of the stub off. You’d lose the staked portion, but the newer ZX nut is a locking nut that would alleviate it.
  7. mtnickel

    Which CV kits are best for an R200 240Z?

    Great questions. We found out the hard way that the square flange isn’t concentric. It’s a rough cast and can be off almost 1mm. The z31t axle centers on the locating ring of the adapter. The adapter sits flat to the machined face of the stock flange. That takes care of 2 orientations. To weld the adapter on correctly we made the square a touch small. That way you can strategically grind the edges of your square flange to be equal from the Center locating ring. We recommend using a dial indicator to verify you get it reasonably close. If it’s a little big, you can use feeler gauges, shim stock, or even paper as stock to shim it true before tacking. Or you can rent the jig we made to locate it. Haha both options shown in pics
  8. mtnickel

    Which CV kits are best for an R200 240Z?

    Here’s what our slim welded adapter looks like. Basically converts the stock flange to a larger one. Stock z31t axles fit like this. 4 fasteners a side = winning.
  9. mtnickel

    Which CV kits are best for an R200 240Z?

    If you're resourceful enough to find some original Z31T axles, I still believe that's the nicest swap. The main benefit is that there are no fasteners on the diff end...the axle plugs right into the diff. It's just a matter of getting a companion flange on the outboard side to bolt it in. I'm biased perhaps as I sell weld on adapters...but adapters are $195, used Z31T cv's will run you 250-280, and welding the adapter in probably another $100 if you can't do it. So $550 all in. They are known to be very strong too. See my post in the Drivetrain section. Encouraging that Z garage has made a better set. I don't see how theirs don't have adapters though? Still looks like 930 style with adapter...maybe they weld them? I bought the wolf creek setup first hoping it was just a bolt it, but like Z garage found, the CV's they use are terribly sloppy. I then bought true Porsche 930 CV's, but the idea of 20 fasters for axles didn't appeal to me, so I figured out the Z31T setup.
  10. You could weld em shut if you want. To machine that would make them thicker and add a lot of machine time. For cosmetic reasons only.
  11. mtnickel

    Electric Power Steering Information Compiled

    Much appreciated for this info! I have been mulling this swap over. I think i can live without (or rather maybe not live) the collapsable column and plan on a simple install. Due to size and ease of availability, I was going to try the Yaris non-abs with VSS signal. First I may try just using a pulse generator to vary the VSS signal to see if i can find a static point that works well...or alternatively, I've bought a GPS speed sensor on ebay and will try to run that (may need to scale the speed up or down with either an arduino or 555 timer or something). My only fear is the load with 205 sticky tires and a heavy turbo engine swap. But anything is better than nothing. Look forward to the updates!
  12. I’d be interested in one of these. I also commend you on your ambition. As has been mentioned however, is that I think the welding and working with the welder, planning assembly and order of welds will be key. Have to remember this will be HOURS of welding. Plus machining both flanges. It’s a lot of work. Hard to keep cost down. The CX racing one is even $600us and they hardly pay for labour. Haha
  13. mtnickel

    Ford Super 8.8 irs swap thread. Rear brakes too

    All in the name of weight and cost savings. Heck, my 93 and 97 accords had double wishbone front and rear!
  14. mtnickel

    Ford Super 8.8 irs swap thread. Rear brakes too

    Ya, it’s all a bit of a mess. The original poster does seem to have a pretty good handle on it I gather. The inner pivots needing to match only holds true when the spindle is held static. But like he said, since the tie rod moved outboard it’s ok that the inner pivot moves as well since our main goal is to have the control arm and tie rod be parallel and roughly the same length. Exciting stuff. If I wasn’t so deep into my setup, I’d be exploring this a whole lot. Brake, suspension, cheap and readily accessible beefy diffs. Lots of pluses.