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Bob_H

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About Bob_H

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    http://www.reocities.com/row4navy/

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    Newport, RI
  1. Oil Cooler Hookup

    Yes, you can unscrew the part in the block and then use the OEM oil cooler/filter adapter. I have the exact setup on my Z and did just what I said, (remove the connection).
  2. IG account doesn't appear to be there- only a callout post from zleds showing the Z tailights w/their led setup.
  3. Jenvey Heritage ITB (Weber DCOE Clone)

    Thanks for pointing this out Tony- something I have been looking at- how to keep the period look w/new capabilities!
  4. Pretty sure that is an old Porsche color like this one: Name of the color is Signal Orange. That pic of the 240Z is under very bright light - so keep that in mind when comparing to pics of older 911's. Not sure how long this FS link will have pics: http://car-from-uk.com/sale.php?id=47374 Or I just googled Signal Orange Porsche: https://www.google.com/search?q=1970+porsche+911+orange And selected images.
  5. Driven Daily Hillclimb 2016 Build

    I think you don't need to go as wide as you are thinking. I would throw out the stock/OEM rim side of the equation because it assumes the stock rim was the largest you could fit under a stock fender which is not the case. You can fit a 7-8" wide rim under a stock fender on stock hubs. As such, I would stick with a 4" width increase. I have a 10 and 11" wide rims up front on my "Super Datsun" and it still has some room on the IMSA flares, (granted, not much). With just ZG flares, people are approaching 9-9.5" wide rims and the "wide ZG" flares accommodate out to 10 or slightly more with perfect offset. Here are some threads with those discussions: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/41406-4-sets-of-rs-watanabe-in-stock/?hl=%2Bwidest+%2Bunder+%2Bstock+%2Bfenders&do=findComment&comment=340575 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112168-what-size-aftermarket-rimstires-for-240z/page-2?hl=+widest%20+under%20+stock%20+fenders In short - the flare size you have in that pic would likely accommodate a 12" wide rim! Here was me asking similar questions way back when... This was me gathering the info on my FD suspension swap: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/5922-what-is-your-track-width-front-and-rear-scottie-pete/?hl=%2Bwidest+%2Bunder+%2Bstock+%2Bfenders In it shows some good info for your purpose. In particular, look at what Pete Paraska fit under stock fenders and with what offsets - that shows about the max under a stock fender,(I think rolled), with coil-overs.
  6. Driven Daily Hillclimb 2016 Build

    I wish I could remember the source - but it was a very credible one, that told me the Z32 suspension is actually one of the best ones out there - as far as geometry, etc.. I'll see if I can fish it up, Found it! The guys name is Jim and he worked for Roush for a number of years on their Trans-Am cars and IMSA cars - here was the post: http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=25165&postcount=46 And I asked him here,(his post was at the end of the thread - he didn't give me any more info as by the time I reached back out, I had decided on the FD suspension). http://forums.corner-carvers.com/showthread.php?t=4809&highlight=z32+suspension+fd Jim doesn't roll out his credentials very often - but he was working on suspension design well over 30 years ago. That was the basis for my Z32 thoughts. In the end, where the upper arm mounted wasn't much of an option for me. You'll notice the Z33 is not a whole lot different beyond some aluminum parts. Sounds like you've got it worked out - I hope it works out great and you can finish before the season!
  7. Driven Daily Hillclimb 2016 Build

    I'm curious since you have a FC rotary in there, did you look at or consider the 93-95 RX-7 front suspension setup? Same requirements, meets the same objectives and is a smaller package to an extent. I ask because already have a front and rear setup from a FD model RX-7 that I'll swap under my Z when I finish my current Z project. I've had that suspension for 10 years toting around with me on move to move! I'm going to be interested in how you tie that in up front. On edit - see it was a Turbo II. Corrected above. Also, some other questions/thoughts. And for the seating - if you plan to drive this more than just at the races, you are almost 100% going to have to figure out a different seat. That just isn't enough room once you put in a steering wheel. Even with a removable one, just looks iffy on space. I think you will find very quickly that won't be ok for a daily driver. I'd invest in a good HANS type setup and go from there. Second thought/question: the G35 steering column - I don't think that will matter at all. The front steer/rear steer is just rack location. You can easily tie your Z rack into that. You might find all that "extra" junk on the G35 column is a lot of dead weight and space its taking up. I'd say sell that and just adjust the Z rack to work. In my assessment/opinion, fitting the G35 column up in the car,(dash/etc..), will outweigh any fab work required to mate the Z column to the G35 rack.
  8. Compare your Dyno sheets HERE

    Healthy motor for sure! Do you have any plans to run it on a chassis dyno once installed? I'm always interested in the losses from engine dyno to chassis. When I ran my old stroker back in '97, it made about 220-225 on the engine dyno, (still have the printout like yours somewhere). RWHP ended up being just over 180 if I recall, maybe 185 rwhp? Makes me wonder if you'd break 300 at the tires? I think there are some rebello stroker combos out there that did hit in the 290 rwhp range. The stroker I have now is 255 rwhp with the Sunbelt head. It was Dan Baldwin's old setup, so I'd have to fish through his posts to find the graph.
  9. Ok, I see what you are doing now. Next question it raises - once you determine how much is enough or "good" for a orafice size, do you plan to utilze the oil feed from the block through the head like a stock L6 or will it always be a dry mating at the head/block as far as oil is concerned?
  10. Oil pan baffle trap door design?

    I had to look back through your old build thread - you have a very big sump area so not very suprising. To answer your #1 question, diamond is what I would do - nearly every good aftermarket pan I looked at had it setup that way. For the "why", my best thoughts as a long ago mechanical engineer would be that rarely are the forces purely side to side - they often have a component of accel or decel - so some of that fluid will move forward or aft as well as to the side. The diamond better handles that situation vs a square parallel to the sides of the sump. In pure fore/aft acceleration/decelaration - the square and diamond should perform the same. Your problem is in turns at the track - so you have slight accel with side loading - so the fluid/oil is trying to go to the side and back of the sump. (or if braking/slowing, to the side/front). That is my best guess - but that is not my area of expertise. As you observed, I just saw many competition pans built that way, so I used my logic above, and went with the diamond since I couldn't run calcuations either way. Second - I personally wouldn't worry about the drain at the back of the head - read back on post 14 for some more background info on why I would say that. That is Chiefrd who used to post here among other places and still builds very high end/high power RB motors,(and SRs, etc..) over in Japan.
  11. Quick Time Bellhousing for RB's

    Speaking of bellhousings - as I just moved everything up here from North Carolina - I have a RB to I think Muncie/Saginaw T10 bellhousing. I originally got it to adapt the G-Force G5R I had in my 240Z to the RB I wanted to put in. Ended up selling the G-5R and put the RB25 trans behind the RB26. These go for $650+ shipping from Australia - so cheaper than the above mentioned options, but not cheap! My model is BH 084. I'd have to fish through my paperwork from Castemaine Rod Shop when I ordered it all those years ago! If someone wants it, send me a message - I don't plan on using it. I won't let it go for super cheap, but you wouldn't pay full price. I believe the bolt pattern is the same for RB20, 25, 26.
  12. Ok - I have been following, but may have missed this part of the discussion - oil returns. Are the two lines you just ran the only oil return or are they suplementary like some of us do on the RB heads at the rear?
  13. I will be watching this one to see what you eventually find out on the new one as well as the analysis of the failure of the old build.
  14. Back at it....

    Link? Tried to find it, but I can't.
  15. Back at it....

    Thanks- that car WILL run under its own power someday! A high compliment from you, thank you. If I wasn't so concerned with getting it all right, I would have finished and driven and likely sold it years ago... There is a lot to be said about simple and running. Once this is done starts the project I've been dreaming and thinking of for 15+ years- my first car, a 73 z, swapped with a full FD RX7 suspension, 3.1L w/300+ hp, and other mods for track and daily driving. I have all the parts, just need to have the time and space for the fab work involved. That is why I like your orange one so much- ITB L6, old school style. The red one is great b/c it pushed the known limits at the time in many ways. Both have their strengths. I could count on one hand the number of people I had knowledge of who had 400+ rwhp with the L6 turbo back in the late 90's and early 2000's. Much easier and more know how to today- the Internet and fast evolution of turbo and Engine management has put that knowledge and capabilities in the hands of many. I remember getting most of my info on the 3.1 swap from talking with Rebello himself on a visit to his shop, a well know Z shop in Northern Cali, and some calls to those who built one previously- and some info from Steve Golick's write up on IZCC. All back in early '96-97. Pioneering is what your Red Z was doing along with others- much like your all new car project. Best of luck and I'll be following!
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