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Everything posted by socorob

  1. I also added flex pipes at the same time as the cats. 1 after each header, and i where it Ys back into single exhaust by the diff. I wish I would have cut my 3 bolt flange off and welded on V bands to my headers before I installed them. Without the flex pipes, the flange bolts would always loosen up on me. I would have to tighten them up several times a year. The flex pipes seem to have lessened that. I put V bands before the front flex pipes and after the rear one, so I can drop out the whole center section of the exhaust.
  2. I put 2 magnaflow high flow cats on mine, and it did cut down on the raspiness/drone and quieted the car slightly. Also lowered how much I smell like fumes after driving around in the car all day. Don't get a flowmaster muffler, these drone a lot.
  3. socorob

    Best LS Swap Kit?

    Thats what I meant
  4. socorob

    Electric Power Steering Information Compiled

    I copied the following from the sloppy mechanics on facebook, so don't know personally for sure this will work: Someone used everything off the saturn but like 6" of the spline part that goes into the steering box. I used a NRG 177h steering wheel adapter (fits the saturn steering wheel spline) and aftermarket steering wheels. and for full disclosure- i had to trim off part of the nrg adapter, all the outer lip where the nrg logo is at on the amazon pic. but it was due to the housing that encloses my turn signal/wiper stalk assembly
  5. These are for the earlier Z wipers that you just change the blades on.
  6. My friend had a parts car that had these wiper arms with a hook attachment on the end, instead of the crappy wobbly pins. It appears to be an add on. It has different part numbers than the wiper arms with the pins, so I don't know if they maybe came off another car. Anyone know where to get these, or what they may be called to help narrow down my search? 621 LA87 1R 622 LD87 1L These are the numbers that are printed on them. Maybe the ends came off another vehicle?
  7. Techno Toy Tuning or Apex Engineered have the tie rods. I got TTT to make mine longer so I could get as much camber as I would ever want. With the stock tie rod ends, I could barely get -1.5 camber with just maybe 1/2" threads left in the tie rods. I wasn't comfortable with such little engagement so I got the others and had them made longer. I'm sure apex would probably do the same if you ask.
  8. socorob

    Best LS Swap Kit?

    The only thing about the Hoke kit is if you ever want to use the apex engineered cross member, I think you'd be out of luck. Or if for some reason you wreck your crossmember and his goes NLA.
  9. What would be a good maximum caster for the Z assuming everything was adjustable, and nothing would rub or run out of thread length? I know some newer cars run fairly high caster.
  10. What model are those seats, and what is the width of the seat bottom near the hinge, including the lever that tilts the seat? I have Miata seats set lower and they touch the tunnel and the lever touches the outer sill... I would like to find more supportive seats but need my seat to stay low.
  11. socorob

    Where this tube belongs?

    Its for the ball blower under the steering column.
  12. I have the TTT Q45 setup on my car, and I used the rear wheel hubs with bearings that I got from the car I pulled the rear setup out of. The car had 130000ish miles on it. I want to put new bearings on when I change my spring rate soon. There are left and right versions of these. Some I found don't specify if they are right or left, several say right only, and I have yet to see one that says left. The part number from a lot of manufacturers seem to be 511011. Looks like it was used in the Q45 and Z32 Turbo. The non turbo Z32 has a similar looking hub, but from what I can tell has a smaller bore. I really would like to just get bearings and press them in, not get a whole hub. I see in pictures online these part numbers marked on the bearings: NTN HUB030 OL AB245WX 511011 MB BH511011 38030316 Does anyone have a part number for just replacement bearings for these, or for a left hand hub? It seems like the only difference that I can discern between the left and the right is the single little stud sticking out of the top. In the photos on some replacements, they show 2 holes in the top where it looks like you could press your stud out and put it on the side you need it to be on. Am I correct in thinking this? I want to have the parts in hand before I tear the car apart. Nothing worse than tearing something apart and not having the right parts to put it back together.
  13. See how the top one has 2 small holes and the bottom one has 1? Mine only have 1 hole with a stud in it. Just by looking, I can't tell any other differences.
  14. I have a deep tire well that was removed by drilling spot wells. It was painted and has no rust. I'm not sure what year but it didn't fit my car. I have the 78 with t he shallow well.
  15. My friend took his tank to a radiator shop that dipped the tank and then sealed it. I think it wasn't that much more than buying the stuff and trying to do it yourself. He did the try it yourself with a chain but it didn't get everything out and clogged his injectors, so the sealer kit plus injector cleaning costed him more than taking it to a place.
  16. socorob

    Interior Measurements for Insulation

    If you use lizard skin, go to the dollar store and get a few rolls of the cheap aluminum foil to foil the holes. Prep takes a while, but it only takes minutes to spray the car. The nice thing is, you can cover everything. I did my Z with lizard skin, and my previous car with dynamat. I much prefer lizard skin for performance, ease to apply (the dynamat sucked to apply), and weight. Dynamat is heavy stuff.
  17. look at the pictures on the post from Feb 9, 2014, and you can see how I mounted them in a 280. Not sure how much different the 240 mounting points are. This was a Gen 2 compaq.
  18. socorob

    Door Handle Bumpers and Gas Door Bumpers

    It just keeps the door handle from clanging if you let it go. It's basically a silencer.
  19. I used ones from restoration specialties. Part # 11-144. $2.25 each instead of the 8 each the Z suppliers sell, so $9 for the car instead of $32 for the tiniest pieces of rubber. http://stores.restorationspecialties.com/11-144-bum/ 4249 may also work, but I didn't try those.
  20. socorob

    250 GTO/Vella Rosa dash

    I'm not interested but it looks like it could be a good option for someone who has a bad dash and wanting to have a racepac digital race dash. https://www.jegs.com/i/RacePak/806/25DSIQ3/10002/-1?CAWELAID=230006180037964817&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=47430200350&CATCI=pla-324540406200&CATARGETID=230006180040342498&cadevice=c&gclid=CjwKCAjw0ujYBRBDEiwAn7BKt3UsRTa7LzHGZ9Da5BxZrdanpNCsZik6VzCb1YBj6Z3jF5qMWWBnQxoCIzgQAvD_BwE
  21. socorob

    Announcing Arkansas Mile Summer 2016

    Are you going to the wanna go fast 1/2 mile shootout at NOLA motorsports park?
  22. socorob

    250 GTO/Vella Rosa dash

    Does this install onto the original dash frame? Would it fit a stock Z if someone was wanting a custom dash?
  23. socorob


    What do you mean "give it tension"?
  24. After having and moving all the parts around my garage multiple times for about a year, I finally got some of that motivation to try to see if I could get the Saturn electric power steering into my Z. Mine is an LS swap with vintage air so not sure if the under dash or under hood part will work with a stock engine or not. Also so far this weekend I only got the fab part complete and only turned the wheel back and forth in place, I haven't driven it yet, or wired it. My goal was to get all the parts in without cutting any parts of the structure of the car and have no welded parts on the torque side of the motor. It can only fit in 1 spot, with absolutely no play in any direction, clocked around 10:00. If you were to relocate the flasher that's behind the AC vent and remove the bracket holding it, it would give you another 1/4" space fore and aft and probably let you clock it to about 11:00. Hopefully once it's completed, it will drive well. I will start at the steering rack and work up from there. Parts used: Woodward UA113109 Datsun U joint DD shaft Dorman 614-001 uni-fit cv joint boot (autozone)...2 if you want to put one on the inside of the firewall also to dress it up Hose clamp ROL exhaust tubing 548510 (O'Reillys) 2 R18Z bearings (Ebay) Saturn Vue steering column with metal control box (not plastic one) 2002-2007 Bruno controller (Ebay) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Saturn-Vue-Chevy-Equinox-electric-power-steering-controller-EPAS-/122354361512?hash=item1c7ce364a8:g:I7AAAOSw0cdZfi49&vxp=mtr Hardened bolt for set screw 5/8 outer snap ring (Ace Hardware) Miscellaneous parts: primer, paint, bolts, welding wire, flat bar, etc. I got the woodward UA113109 universal joint to connect to the Datsun rack and convert it to DD steering rod.
  25. I left the ground connection on and reused it, and also fished the power wire with the inline fuse all the way to the battery, and reused all that too. That let me use the proper fuse. It's fairly easy to pull the Saturn columns. On 1 of the 2 cars I pulled them from I lucked out as someone had pulled the engine already, so everything was in the open. The pullapart in Baton Rouge only charged me $45 each with the steering wheel, airbag, everything still attached. Down here I don't thin many people were using these, at least at the time. I've seen several and never saw one missing the column.