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Everything posted by socorob

  1. socorob

    Door Handle Bumpers and Gas Door Bumpers

    It just keeps the door handle from clanging if you let it go. It's basically a silencer.
  2. I used ones from restoration specialties. Part # 11-144. $2.25 each instead of the 8 each the Z suppliers sell, so $9 for the car instead of $32 for the tiniest pieces of rubber. http://stores.restorationspecialties.com/11-144-bum/ 4249 may also work, but I didn't try those.
  3. socorob

    250 GTO/Vella Rosa dash

    I'm not interested but it looks like it could be a good option for someone who has a bad dash and wanting to have a racepac digital race dash. https://www.jegs.com/i/RacePak/806/25DSIQ3/10002/-1?CAWELAID=230006180037964817&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=47430200350&CATCI=pla-324540406200&CATARGETID=230006180040342498&cadevice=c&gclid=CjwKCAjw0ujYBRBDEiwAn7BKt3UsRTa7LzHGZ9Da5BxZrdanpNCsZik6VzCb1YBj6Z3jF5qMWWBnQxoCIzgQAvD_BwE
  4. socorob

    Announcing Arkansas Mile Summer 2016

    Are you going to the wanna go fast 1/2 mile shootout at NOLA motorsports park?
  5. socorob

    250 GTO/Vella Rosa dash

    Does this install onto the original dash frame? Would it fit a stock Z if someone was wanting a custom dash?
  6. socorob


    What do you mean "give it tension"?
  7. After having and moving all the parts around my garage multiple times for about a year, I finally got some of that motivation to try to see if I could get the Saturn electric power steering into my Z. Mine is an LS swap with vintage air so not sure if the under dash or under hood part will work with a stock engine or not. Also so far this weekend I only got the fab part complete and only turned the wheel back and forth in place, I haven't driven it yet, or wired it. My goal was to get all the parts in without cutting any parts of the structure of the car and have no welded parts on the torque side of the motor. It can only fit in 1 spot, with absolutely no play in any direction, clocked around 10:00. If you were to relocate the flasher that's behind the AC vent and remove the bracket holding it, it would give you another 1/4" space fore and aft and probably let you clock it to about 11:00. Hopefully once it's completed, it will drive well. I will start at the steering rack and work up from there. Parts used: Woodward UA113109 Datsun U joint DD shaft Dorman 614-001 uni-fit cv joint boot (autozone)...2 if you want to put one on the inside of the firewall also to dress it up Hose clamp ROL exhaust tubing 548510 (O'Reillys) 2 R18Z bearings (Ebay) Saturn Vue steering column with metal control box (not plastic one) 2002-2007 Bruno controller (Ebay) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Saturn-Vue-Chevy-Equinox-electric-power-steering-controller-EPAS-/122354361512?hash=item1c7ce364a8:g:I7AAAOSw0cdZfi49&vxp=mtr Hardened bolt for set screw 5/8 outer snap ring (Ace Hardware) Miscellaneous parts: primer, paint, bolts, welding wire, flat bar, etc. I got the woodward UA113109 universal joint to connect to the Datsun rack and convert it to DD steering rod.
  8. I left the ground connection on and reused it, and also fished the power wire with the inline fuse all the way to the battery, and reused all that too. That let me use the proper fuse. It's fairly easy to pull the Saturn columns. On 1 of the 2 cars I pulled them from I lucked out as someone had pulled the engine already, so everything was in the open. The pullapart in Baton Rouge only charged me $45 each with the steering wheel, airbag, everything still attached. Down here I don't thin many people were using these, at least at the time. I've seen several and never saw one missing the column.
  9. socorob

    280SR-Z from Germany

    Way to get right into it!
  10. Make sure you fit everything in place before you do any tack welding. Someone else's may vary from mine somewhat.
  11. socorob

    Rear Hatch Sill Replace it or wait it out.

    Since thats not really a structural piece, I used body panel glue will a few spot welds all around.
  12. http://www.autoloc.com/catalog/Power-Window-Kits/OEM-Window-Crank-Switches/AUTEWSU/Universal-Power-Window-Handle-Crank-Switch---Fits-All-Vehicles
  13. socorob

    74 260z 5.3 resto mod

    Are you going with a fuel cell? If not, I have an extra spare tire well in perfect condition.
  14. Mine has about 1.5 inches. My ride height has been level for a few years, just don't like the slack in the front and preload in the rear. I think if I go to 300- 350 in the rear it will help with that, plus keep the car a little flatter on tight turns.
  15. I got the TTT Front and rears. It was originally 300r 250f. I swapped them around because I felt everywhere was too soft. With 300f the front feels and handles much better. The ride is good. The car weighs 2900. I think TTT may have cut my struts wrong. With no preload and just the springs touching with no slop, the front is several inches higher than the rear with either springs on either end. Since they originally sent 50 pound heavier rears, I was wondering if I should go to 350 in the rear since 300 feels about perfect in my car.
  16. Mine probably compresses more than that. How would the length of the spring change how much it compresses?
  17. socorob

    Failed Emissions

    What about throwing some high flow cats on there?
  18. I have 250# springs in the rear with konis, and I think they're too soft, with as much preload as I can put on them, they still almost bottom out from the weight of the car, so I end up with very little rear travel. I think 300 would be a good minimum for the rear of a full street Z in my opinion. I have 300 in the front, and they give a decent ride.
  19. socorob

    Low Cost Rotisserie

    https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=140&t=1139816&i=200 About halfway down page 11 is what he copied, worked good.
  20. socorob

    Low Cost Rotisserie

    My friend made a rollover frame like this, except instead of a curved 90 degree edge, he made 2 45 degree bends. It gave a few options on what position to have the car in for different things. He made it from square tube, so on the upright, he had another tube that would slide into them with large bolts to act as a kickstand.
  21. socorob

    74 260z 5.3 resto mod

    How are you going to convert that transmission to make it usable? Is it easy to do?
  22. And whatever is inside the little black box, if you're able to.
  23. And any part numbers from the potentiometer (the knob) or from any other components you can see a number on. I meant to get the one off the pot, but forgot to before I put everything in.
  24. Mine did that, it would go on and off. Email Bruno, he will give you some suggestions for testing. My problem ended up being the connector in my fuse block that I powered the bruno box with. The connector wasn't snapped into the fuse block very well apparently, so it was sliding out the bottom of the fuse block. The tension and other wires wouldn't let it come out all the way, so it mainly was making contact and working fine. Every once in a while it would go off. Of course I started at the other end with my meter taking harnesses apart to try to find where the break was. If I would have started at the fuse, I would have found it in 10 seconds. Just had to take the fuse box off and snap the connector all the way back in from underneath, and has worked perfectly since. My problem was nothing to do with his controller. I bet if you open his box, there probably is only a few dollars worth of components in there that you could resolder to try. Maybe the Potentiometer went bad, did you test that? If you open the box, please post some pictures of it here.