socorob

I used ones from restoration specialties. Part # 11-144. $2.25 each instead of the 8 each the Z suppliers sell, so $9 for the car instead of $32 for the tiniest pieces of rubber. http://stores.restorationspecialties.com/11-144-bum/ 4249 may also work, but I didn't try those.

Mine has about 1.5 inches. My ride height has been level for a few years, just don't like the slack in the front and preload in the rear. I think if I go to 300- 350 in the rear it will help with that, plus keep the car a little flatter on tight turns.

I got the TTT Front and rears. It was originally 300r 250f. I swapped them around because I felt everywhere was too soft. With 300f the front feels and handles much better. The ride is good. The car weighs 2900. I think TTT may have cut my struts wrong. With no preload and just the springs touching with no slop, the front is several inches higher than the rear with either springs on either end. Since they originally sent 50 pound heavier rears, I was wondering if I should go to 350 in the rear since 300 feels about perfect in my car.

Mine probably compresses more than that. How would the length of the spring change how much it compresses?

What about throwing some high flow cats on there?

I have 250# springs in the rear with konis, and I think they're too soft, with as much preload as I can put on them, they still almost bottom out from the weight of the car, so I end up with very little rear travel. I think 300 would be a good minimum for the rear of a full street Z in my opinion. I have 300 in the front, and they give a decent ride.

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=140&t=1139816&i=200 About halfway down page 11 is what he copied, worked good.

My friend made a rollover frame like this, except instead of a curved 90 degree edge, he made 2 45 degree bends. It gave a few options on what position to have the car in for different things. He made it from square tube, so on the upright, he had another tube that would slide into them with large bolts to act as a kickstand.

How are you going to convert that transmission to make it usable? Is it easy to do?

And whatever is inside the little black box, if you're able to.

And any part numbers from the potentiometer (the knob) or from any other components you can see a number on. I meant to get the one off the pot, but forgot to before I put everything in.

Mine did that, it would go on and off. Email Bruno, he will give you some suggestions for testing. My problem ended up being the connector in my fuse block that I powered the bruno box with. The connector wasn't snapped into the fuse block very well apparently, so it was sliding out the bottom of the fuse block. The tension and other wires wouldn't let it come out all the way, so it mainly was making contact and working fine. Every once in a while it would go off. Of course I started at the other end with my meter taking harnesses apart to try to find where the break was. If I would have started at the fuse, I would have found it in 10 seconds. Just had to take the fuse box off and snap the connector all the way back in from underneath, and has worked perfectly since. My problem was nothing to do with his controller. I bet if you open his box, there probably is only a few dollars worth of components in there that you could resolder to try. Maybe the Potentiometer went bad, did you test that? If you open the box, please post some pictures of it here.

Yes, I have the shorter steering knuckles, and the smaller Datsun competition wheel, so thats helped a lot. I don't know if also going to a 240 rack (not like they're even available in good shape) may be too much.

I bought a 3". I plan on getting it installed this weekend, so will know for sure then. I am having added flex pipes, high flow cats and a V band near the diff so the center section can be dropped out easily.

Do you think people will eventually switch to LBRY or some other block chain type content provider?

I slid my bad dog frame rails up as far as they would go and scribed them to fit the car. I had to cut almost the entire length. I think they're made to weld to the sides of the existing frame rails, not the floor, at least on the 280. I wanted mine to fit the floor. Just get some U channel, scribe it to the floor, and cut, cut, cut.

For an all around car, I think a good starting point would be to go with a gear ratio close to what the factory used with that transmission. A mainly strip car, autox car, or a track car may need something much different.

Is there a locksmith around thats been in business for a long time near you? Maybe they have some?

If you use a T56, 1st gear will be useless with a 4.08. With a 3.54, it goes by in a second.

How much caster do you think it's safe to go with an all adjustable suspension (TTT) for a street car? I can't remember what I have now, but I think it's a little more than stock. I'll have to see if I still have my photo with the settings of everything.

Are those numbers on a street driven also car?

I also have been looking at a lot of new RWD cars with IRS suspensions in traffic. Porsche, BMW, some American cars.... It appears that they have more negative camber on the rear than on the front. Is this a better way to setup suspension? Something like back in the 50s, 60s, some cars had positive camber, and over the years they figured out negative is better for handling, so now everyone goes for negative?

Did you use the street or track specs for your alignment from the sticky?

Does the 76 have baffles in the tank? I have a 78 and it looked like the tank had some baffling in it.

I used 22478 for the lower and 21588 for the upper with a steam vent.