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HuD 91gt

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Everything posted by HuD 91gt

  1. Wastegate upsizing

    FYI find out if that grinder has any speed control. I bought one similar (from a well known Canadian box store, it’s home brand) and was slightly dissapointed to only find out it only runs at one RPM. I think you can buy an external speed control device a la harbour freight.
  2. R200 obx diff

    My OBX when bolted had unuseable backlash. I forget the exact specs but on one side of the ring gear I had 0, and the other side I had way over spec. i was planning on tossing it when my machinist friend said he would take a peak. Said the ring hear mating surface had 0.08” of runout. Not sure when I’ll get the chance to bolt it all back together, but I’m hoping that fixes the problem. Doing it again, I’d go for the warranty and M Factory.
  3. I’m running NGK bpr6es-11. Same as stock but wider gap. LS guys have their gap set between .050” and .060” it seems. I opened mine to .050” and called it a day.
  4. You can use whatever gas you tune it for. But there is a reason turbo cars usually run higher octane fuel.
  5. Looks like that link confirmed by thoughts. Front and back are different. Probably not your issue. Raising the valve via washer will effectively make your mixture more lean. That’s the way it works in my head at least.
  6. It’s been ages since I took apart my SUs. But I do believe there is two different height needle valves. If the wrong ones are in there (short in stead of tall) it could be very very difficult to set the float heights.
  7. If you don't know if your running lean, pull the plugs. The wideband 02 dinosaur way Plugs don't lie.
  8. Alternator Noise with MS2

    edit: Posted in error.
  9. Exhaust Manifold studs vs bolts?

    Studs are used for the exhaust manifold from the factory. Unsure what factory used for the upper intake, but I do believe bolts were used.
  10. Alternator Noise with MS2

    My issue stemmed from a large body ground I had installed with the MS2. All stock grounds remained, but were insufficient. At one point I removed it as I thought it was overkill, but intact it really was doing something. Just one thing to look into.
  11. Alternator Noise with MS2

    General consensus from what i'd read is to match the MS2 to the gauge as you said. My LC-1 had the exact same readout as my MS2 (until the gauge gave out on me). I assume you have two separate grounds as stated in the instructions? I was getting a lot of noise in my system until I realized I had removed a good body ground. Replaced it once again and 95% of the noise is gone.
  12. MS2 3.0 w/ MS2extra No Spark

    +1. With a brain like an encyclopedia he's a great and knowledgeable helping hand in the community that's for sure!
  13. Compare your Dyno sheets HERE

    Vacuum advance won't affect WOT power. One day, toss a timing light on and at least see what you are running for idle advance. Thanks for posting your sheet!
  14. Do you always degree your aftermarket cam?

    Sorry, wasn't a question. It was a statement. I also degreed mine 8 degrees advanced from straight up.
  15. Do you always degree your aftermarket cam?

    8 degrees here from straight up after actually degreeing the cam.
  16. N42 3.0 trackday build

    Rebello will have pistons. He probably has a full rebuilt kit for you for a good price.
  17. Lost 3 lap pads

    When I popped a lash pad, a valve ended up knicking a piston. Stainless valves were too tight in cast guides and with the heat of normal engine operation lodged a valve stem in the guide and the piston tapped the valve. i noticed looking through the spark plug hole and seeing the minor marking on the piston.
  18. Block/Head Combo options

    I am using a similar setup with a P90/Flat tops. One of these days i'll toss the turbo charger on it. I had similar plans to you. Goal of 350rwhp. If I had known the total cost my rebuild would cost me, I would have tossed forged bits in with it. I've been tinkering with my FI while running the engine NA and i'm sure I would be missing a ring land or two if I was turbo charged. Once I bolt it all together I will tune properly on a dyno. For me, the cost of some forged bits is cheaper then the time and hassle of pulling the engine apart and putting in new pistons every "oops". You may get a few "oops" with the forged.
  19. Running cool (maybe?)

    Glad to hear some of the problems are sorted. Unpowered Windmilling propellers in aircraft cause a huge amount of drag. Opposing fans, in my head would be causing quite a bit of turbulence. I wouldn’t be surprised if this is causing a lack of airflow through your radiator. My sugguestion now is removing one of the two fans (I’d remove the pusher) and running the system as is. Of course a shrouded system doesn’t hurt. If your fan isn’t covering most of the radiator I’d say a shroud is required. Keep us updated. I use to have my fans on a 5 terminal relay. The thermo switch would turn on the fans at the appopriate time, and I also had a switch inside the cabin which would turn them on as required. Using this method you could scrap your second fan. Lighter, less complex and you have a backup fan on the shelf when the first kicks the bucket.
  20. Turning camshaft, how hard should it be?

    It will be difficult without the head bolted to the block. If you can bolt it down, grab some vice grips and clamp them to the knob between the lobes. Pending that, remove all the rockers and turn it that way.
  21. Q's on FricFrac Ms setup and injector impedance

    Looks like your setup for low Z injectors using PWM. Switching to a high Z injector will be the switch of a few key strokes and most likely swapping the connectors on the end of your harness. Don't want to sound like a broken record, but read the manual. This time, the tuner studio manual. It goes over every setting fairly well and you will be able to get it going. Don't skim as you will be bound to miss something. I believe PWM current limiting will be turned off, change the injector size to 440cc and track down the specifications of your new injectors and toss them in. Contact Motorman Injectors or Osidetiger for some injectors. Let them know what your doing, and they will be able to set you up for probably around $2-300. Edit: Sorry, I noticed you wanted a barbed injector. I do believe these exist, Motorman would be to the goto for this as he has a very very wide selection online.
  22. Running cool (maybe?)

    Have you set up the calibration of your aftermarket gauges? I'd assume aluminum would be fine, i'd try and find out what the stock line size is on a 280z. I would run your heater core the same way as the factory did it. The water will flow the path of least resistance. Make sure the flow with the heater valve open or closed will circulate through the cylinder head/block, flow by your thermostat and associated gauges before it has the chance to use the bypass or the radiator. Think it through.
  23. Running cool (maybe?)

    X2 ^^
  24. Running cool (maybe?)

    I can’t explain why the engine may run cooler. My only guess is a lack of calibration with your gauges. You have two thermostats, drill one out and see what happens, then go onto the next issue. From what you explained, and looking at the diagrams I do believe your heater core is definetely acting as a bypass when open. Unfortunetely your thermostat isnt getting any flow, and without flow a complete lack of hot fluid passing by.
  25. IMG_9740.JPG

    I like the look of these. Are you using a standard H4 halogen? May I ask where you got them from?