Jump to content
HybridZ

HuD 91gt

Members
  • Content count

    184
  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2
  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by HuD 91gt

  1. Compare your Dyno sheets HERE

    Vacuum advance won't affect WOT power. One day, toss a timing light on and at least see what you are running for idle advance. Thanks for posting your sheet!
  2. Do you always degree your aftermarket cam?

    Sorry, wasn't a question. It was a statement. I also degreed mine 8 degrees advanced from straight up.
  3. Do you always degree your aftermarket cam?

    8 degrees here from straight up after actually degreeing the cam.
  4. N42 3.0 trackday build

    Rebello will have pistons. He probably has a full rebuilt kit for you for a good price.
  5. Lost 3 lap pads

    When I popped a lash pad, a valve ended up knicking a piston. Stainless valves were too tight in cast guides and with the heat of normal engine operation lodged a valve stem in the guide and the piston tapped the valve. i noticed looking through the spark plug hole and seeing the minor marking on the piston.
  6. Block/Head Combo options

    I am using a similar setup with a P90/Flat tops. One of these days i'll toss the turbo charger on it. I had similar plans to you. Goal of 350rwhp. If I had known the total cost my rebuild would cost me, I would have tossed forged bits in with it. I've been tinkering with my FI while running the engine NA and i'm sure I would be missing a ring land or two if I was turbo charged. Once I bolt it all together I will tune properly on a dyno. For me, the cost of some forged bits is cheaper then the time and hassle of pulling the engine apart and putting in new pistons every "oops". You may get a few "oops" with the forged.
  7. Running cool (maybe?)

    Glad to hear some of the problems are sorted. Unpowered Windmilling propellers in aircraft cause a huge amount of drag. Opposing fans, in my head would be causing quite a bit of turbulence. I wouldn’t be surprised if this is causing a lack of airflow through your radiator. My sugguestion now is removing one of the two fans (I’d remove the pusher) and running the system as is. Of course a shrouded system doesn’t hurt. If your fan isn’t covering most of the radiator I’d say a shroud is required. Keep us updated. I use to have my fans on a 5 terminal relay. The thermo switch would turn on the fans at the appopriate time, and I also had a switch inside the cabin which would turn them on as required. Using this method you could scrap your second fan. Lighter, less complex and you have a backup fan on the shelf when the first kicks the bucket.
  8. Turning camshaft, how hard should it be?

    It will be difficult without the head bolted to the block. If you can bolt it down, grab some vice grips and clamp them to the knob between the lobes. Pending that, remove all the rockers and turn it that way.
  9. Q's on FricFrac Ms setup and injector impedance

    Looks like your setup for low Z injectors using PWM. Switching to a high Z injector will be the switch of a few key strokes and most likely swapping the connectors on the end of your harness. Don't want to sound like a broken record, but read the manual. This time, the tuner studio manual. It goes over every setting fairly well and you will be able to get it going. Don't skim as you will be bound to miss something. I believe PWM current limiting will be turned off, change the injector size to 440cc and track down the specifications of your new injectors and toss them in. Contact Motorman Injectors or Osidetiger for some injectors. Let them know what your doing, and they will be able to set you up for probably around $2-300. Edit: Sorry, I noticed you wanted a barbed injector. I do believe these exist, Motorman would be to the goto for this as he has a very very wide selection online.
  10. Running cool (maybe?)

    Have you set up the calibration of your aftermarket gauges? I'd assume aluminum would be fine, i'd try and find out what the stock line size is on a 280z. I would run your heater core the same way as the factory did it. The water will flow the path of least resistance. Make sure the flow with the heater valve open or closed will circulate through the cylinder head/block, flow by your thermostat and associated gauges before it has the chance to use the bypass or the radiator. Think it through.
  11. Running cool (maybe?)

    X2 ^^
  12. Running cool (maybe?)

    I can’t explain why the engine may run cooler. My only guess is a lack of calibration with your gauges. You have two thermostats, drill one out and see what happens, then go onto the next issue. From what you explained, and looking at the diagrams I do believe your heater core is definetely acting as a bypass when open. Unfortunetely your thermostat isnt getting any flow, and without flow a complete lack of hot fluid passing by.
  13. IMG_9740.JPG

    I like the look of these. Are you using a standard H4 halogen? May I ask where you got them from?
  14. Depends what you think is easy. Looks like you would have to machine, or have an adaptor made for your oil pump spindle to adapt it. Neat little kit though.
  15. Running cool (maybe?)

    My thought process with the bypass is that if you block it off the water pump is deadheaded until the thermostat is opened. Apparently it takes a good amount of flow to get the water pump from cavitating. The work around is to run another bypass (If not using the SU carb heater) and run it around the engine back into the system. Secondly, you can drill, I believe a 1/4" hole or two in the thermostat which allows the water pump to flow some fluid throughout the system allowing proper warming of the engine. If you have no fluid flow, your temp sensors(and thermostat) won't be reading accurately either. I am using the drilled out thermostat method. Seems to work fine, although technically your engine will take slightly longer to warm up as you are allowing the system to recirculate through the radiator... slowly. Take a look at this photo. If you remove the SU carb heater, your system has no flow while the thermostat is closed. post-29130-050710200 1349202392.jpg My reasoning for trying the fan switched on, is you should have minimal flow throughout the radiator when the thermostat is closed during warmup. The fan running shouldn't change a thing, if you are running a bypass of some sort (Homemade or stock carb heater). Just a way to find where the issue is.
  16. Running cool (maybe?)

    Do you have any of the bypasses blocked? Which side of the thermostat is the gauge probe on, and which side is the fan probe? I'm just trying to get a good idea in my head of how you have it all set up. A couple simple things come to mind. Are your fans blowing in the right direction? Both of them? What happens if you run your switched fan when the engine is cold. Does the engine get cooler? Never warm up? Stabilize at 180?
  17. Running cool (maybe?)

    How are you getting your temperature readings?
  18. Came into this with negative thoughts about another youtube series which is more about videography then actual work. I watched all 5 episodes and was pleasantly surprised! Subscribed. I must say this is some of the best instructional series i've seen in a while. Despite the sound being a bit low, I can't critique much. Great job, i've already learned lots!
  19. I believe the only different pickups were with the Turbo variant of the L28. I don't know which design is which though.
  20. Low compression!!!

    As Chickenman says, try it again grounded to an actual ground. Not at the plug. If no change, Check the cap like he says. Im only familiar with 240z wiring. But with the ZX modification you should have the ignition wire from the tach to the positiveon the coil. I do believe it should be 12v but look into it. There should be a second wire running from the + of the coil to the ignition module. The other terminal on the module should go to the - of the coil.
  21. If the return from the injectors goes back into the surge tank it will not matter if the LP pump can outflow the HP pump. Any residual fuel which is not used by the engine will be returned to the surge tank (Which 70+% of the time is a majority of the fuel pumped). In addition to this return fuel, will be the fuel supplied from the LP pump from the fuel tank. As long as the LP pump can supply enough GPH for the engine to use, the surge tank will never be low no matter the size of the HP pump. If the LP pump could not keep up with the GPH required by the engine then you would start to see the level of the surge tank decrease. Since the engine is never operating at max power 100% of the time, as long as the surge tank is large enough, and of a decent design it offers a buffer. But besides that point the Carter P4070 is a high flow LP pump. Pumping around 72GPH. Plenty to feed this setup in it's current tuning state i'm sure.
  22. Random thought. But how accurate are FPR gauges in the low end? I searched the Carter pump and it says it operates at 4-8psi. Pending how the surge tank is plumbed (Not the way I believe he had it in my post above), is it possible your 044 is not operating and the pressure you are seeing is directly from the Carter pump? Just a random thought, and it completely depends how your system is hooked up.
  23. His HP Bosch 044 should run through the FPR and have a return back to the surge tank. The frame G3 is filtering the fuel from the fuel tank, to the surge tank correct? It is filtering LP fuel from the carter pump. I don't see issues there. The LP fuel pump doesn't have to keep up with the 044 unless he is running the 044 to it's limits at all times and the surge tank is too small to be used as a buffer for changes in fuel burn. Make sure vent and return hoses from the surge tank and fuel tank are clear and make sense. Positive differentials between the two could cause you issues if they aren't venting properly. Despite how much thought and engineering I went in with my surge tank development, when I was filling up I was only able to get a 1/2 tank of fuel. I realized my venting was way off. Like they say above. Let's get some photo's of your whole system.
  24. Low compression!!!

    The link will move from one engine rotation to the next. Don't worry about it. Turn the engine 3 or 4 more times and it should show one spot 1 as installed.
×